Should I quit now or dig myself deeper?
#1
Should I quit now or dig myself deeper?
I bought this gem for a lovely $200.00. It was dirty but had no stains rips or tears, just needed a good vacuum. The motor was locked. Shortly after I got it, someone stole the stereo and rear speakers, later I discovered that the cooling fans were missing too. I dropped another VG in it and had not heard of nor checked for the exhaust stud problem. Cranked it up and suprise! Exhaust leaks from hell. So I could have fixed this while the motor was on the stand but that would have been too easy. I took it for a quick test drive down the street and back and it shifted smooth WHEN it shifted. Seemed to hang in gear. Then again, I had too much tranny fluid in it and it hasn't been driven in close to 2 years. Is it worth me to keep working on this thing. And will the transmission clear up after some driving? I am just dreading attempthing the stud problem. Here it is.
Just gotta love theives. I paid $200.00 for the car and the stereo in it was worth somewhere around $300.00. One of those nice tilting ones.
Just gotta love theives. I paid $200.00 for the car and the stereo in it was worth somewhere around $300.00. One of those nice tilting ones.
#2
change the tranny fluid for $20 and see how it does. if it shifts better, then drive the car for a while and see if the exhaust studs are worth repairing.
it's worth another $20 to find out! If not, just part the car out and call it a day.
it's worth another $20 to find out! If not, just part the car out and call it a day.
#3
haha; maximas are beautiful cars, no doubt, but sometimes its too expensive to save face on a deal. i love my maxi, but when it starts to go, im not digging myself any deeper on the car; nissans are expensive to maintain...especially when theyre 14 years old.
find out how many studs are broken first off..that way you KNOW how many are broken and a dealership can't try to replace studs that dont need replaced.
then find a local mechanic (preferably one that is experienced with headers)that has worked on this problem before and is willing to do the job for a fair amount WITH THE ENGINE IN THE CAR; i had 7 replaced at 22 dollars a pop + replacement gaskets. cost me like $160-$170, which is a VERY good deal (ive heard of people paying 600-1000 to fix this problem).
its not a real problem to be truthful, unless your missing some major studs; 2-3 of the 7 studs that were broken when i put headers on had been broken since i bought the car and i didnt notice it to be truthful...but then again, one of my cylinders is burning hella oil...right where a lot of the studs were missing (bad compression destroyed the sealant ring due to lack of back pressure?)
transmission would be the biggest worry of all...and i drove my maxi with 7 studs missing off the headers for 2 months and the transmission ran fine...so it sounds like the transmission is a separate problem.
find out how many studs are broken first off..that way you KNOW how many are broken and a dealership can't try to replace studs that dont need replaced.
then find a local mechanic (preferably one that is experienced with headers)that has worked on this problem before and is willing to do the job for a fair amount WITH THE ENGINE IN THE CAR; i had 7 replaced at 22 dollars a pop + replacement gaskets. cost me like $160-$170, which is a VERY good deal (ive heard of people paying 600-1000 to fix this problem).
its not a real problem to be truthful, unless your missing some major studs; 2-3 of the 7 studs that were broken when i put headers on had been broken since i bought the car and i didnt notice it to be truthful...but then again, one of my cylinders is burning hella oil...right where a lot of the studs were missing (bad compression destroyed the sealant ring due to lack of back pressure?)
transmission would be the biggest worry of all...and i drove my maxi with 7 studs missing off the headers for 2 months and the transmission ran fine...so it sounds like the transmission is a separate problem.
#5
haha, yeah. like a badass tractor from hell...been there!
my car started doing so weird **** after a while; the oil got really bad and the car would start running like **** because of it; got better after i replaced oil. hasnt happened since i fixed the studs.
my car started doing so weird **** after a while; the oil got really bad and the car would start running like **** because of it; got better after i replaced oil. hasnt happened since i fixed the studs.
#7
Yea h I think I am gonna **** off a lot of people but I did have an Accord that I traded in with 199,969 miles and it ran perfect. Everything worked, and I never had a single problem with the car besides the clock on the dash would fade in and out. But then again I bought this Max not running so I had no way to check anything. So far the car needs to have the exhuast manifolds fixed, front drivers side wheel bearing, ac lines connected, power steering pump line replaced. Thats what it needs to be drivable. The rear power windows don't work. One does but the regulator is shot and it grinds its way up and down and the other does nothing at all. It needs a stereo and rear speakers. Tires are going to need to be replaced soon. I noticed the blower switch has to be jiggled to get the ac/heater blower to work. I paid $200, for the car, $350 for the motor. About $200 in misc. parts. Timing belt, thermostat, alternator, belts, hoses, spark plugs, power steering pump. Hmm it is just sitting again and it won't start, I am hoping that it is just out of gas.
#9
Originally Posted by Dillbag
get a honda...
#10
Well all the money i spent on the motor I did as preventative maint. None of that failed or anything. I just figuered it would be easier to do a timing belt and thermostat with the motor out rather than it in. Guess I should have clarified that.
#13
ok so maybe just get it acceptably driveable then sell it to try to recoup some cash, THEN start over with another car.
Yeah, i've been where you are, i've just now crawled back out of the hole, now i need more mods.
Yeah, i've been where you are, i've just now crawled back out of the hole, now i need more mods.
#14
I mean all in all I have about $800 invested and it needs about another $200 tops in misc things and the exhaust and wheel bearing otbe a nice looking good running car. I dont think that is too bad.
#16
yeah true if i get it running good, and have her all cleaned up and looking good how much u think i can get for her? Odo say 214000 miles but the motor i dropped in has 86000 miles and i noticed the tranny isn't original either.
#18
Senior Member
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Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Miami, FL. / Indianapolis, IN.
Posts: 2,610
yeah, droppin' money into these cars is not pretty if ur not into moddin' the 3rd gens. in my case i have 2 and im tryin' to get rid of my white '89 SE. bought it for $450 with rims. previous owner said he blew a head gasket (was a heater hose instead of head gasket). fixed the hose and a week later the crank snapped. too my motor out of my '93 and dropped it into my '89. now it runs and drives like a beast with new timin' belt, thermostat, water pump, cam seals and front main seal. its also a 5-speed and im sellin' her for $1500 with rims. my '93 is my money pit since i just put so much into it. new low mileage motor, 5-spd swap, wsp y-pipe, exedy clutch kit, 300ZX TT with '06 Maxima rotors BBK, the rest of my mods just go to my cardomain site.
#19
Originally Posted by GRNMAXDMON
yeah, droppin' money into these cars is not pretty if ur not into moddin' the 3rd gens. in my case i have 2 and im tryin' to get rid of my white '89 SE. bought it for $450 with rims. previous owner said he blew a head gasket (was a heater hose instead of head gasket). fixed the hose and a week later the crank snapped. too my motor out of my '93 and dropped it into my '89. now it runs and drives like a beast with new timin' belt, thermostat, water pump, cam seals and front main seal. its also a 5-speed and im sellin' her for $1500 with rims. my '93 is my money pit since i just put so much into it. new low mileage motor, 5-spd swap, wsp y-pipe, exedy clutch kit, 300ZX TT with '06 Maxima rotors BBK, the rest of my mods just go to my cardomain site.
#20
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Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Miami, FL. / Indianapolis, IN.
Posts: 2,610
Originally Posted by maxitech
Think it's necessary to drop the engine to replace the cam seals and front main seal?
no need, u can just do it while the motor is inside the car. u just have to take apart the front end of the motor and while at it, if need be, go ahead and replace t-belt, tensioner, water pump and thermostat along with cam seals and front main seal.
#21
So you're saying leaving the engine in the car is more time-efficient and all around less of a hassle? Say so and I'll take your word for it, but I am looking at the space we have to work with and I'm having my doubts...
#24
I also need my studs replaced...my car sounds like a silenced 350 block when idling but like a beast when driving if you've put all that much so far either sell before investing more or keep investing. I got mine for $550 and I put in like 800 all in maintenance, the car needed a MAF and the seller thought it was the timing belt. I'm pretty happy with my Maxima and wouldn't go back to my old accord unless I was forced to.
#25
doing the manifold studs isn't terribly hard, if you are handy with tools, even without a lift. just a matter of unbolting the manifolds and y-pipe. the hardest part is removing the old broken studs from the cylinder head without messing anyhting up. all that is needed is a good drill bit, an angle drill, an "easy out set", and some patience. i think there may be something out the exhaust stud job in the stickies.
#26
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Posts: n/a
I read something about welding. Im about to get a mig, and I know with out the diffrent wire if you weld to the studs it wont catch on the heads. I know this would be only usefull for some studs, but for people with the tools it may be a great option.
~Alex
~Alex
#27
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Miami, FL. / Indianapolis, IN.
Posts: 2,610
Originally Posted by maxitech
So you're saying leaving the engine in the car is more time-efficient and all around less of a hassle? Say so and I'll take your word for it, but I am looking at the space we have to work with and I'm having my doubts...
workin' on it with the motor in the car is time consumin' but worth ur while. workin' with the motor out of the car then damn what more can u ask for. if ur willin' to do this job then do it and then ur gonna thank urself later for doin' it plus u get experienced on it. the way ur lookin' at the space is with everything that covers what u need to work on. once u start to take everything apart clears alot of room and ur gonna have access to what u need to work with. for the studs i have never attempted this while its in the car but will do it to my '89. i did it to my '93 before i swapped in the new motor but for my '89 i couldn't cuz my dad really needed the car so i just left it alone. now if u do the math, think about how much time ur gonna consume by takin' the motor out vs. workin' with the motor in the car. to take a motor if ur a beginner prepare to take up either half a day or the whole day. for a person thats already experienced it should take only about 3-5 hours maybe a bit more. plus if u take the motor out ur gonna run the risk of breakin' nuts and bolts due to it being rusted out and what not. also findin' crap that u need to replace or fix which is gonna delay ur whole work schedule on just what u needed to fix in the first place. imagine if u take this to a shop they r just gonna tear u a new a$$hole cuz they know they're gonna repair and replace parts on ur car when u just wanted 1 or 2 things done to ur car. think about this for a min. and decide what ur gonna do about it. enjoy
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