aksansai

iTrader: (2)

Ha.

I've found yet a new project that requires my TLC for my 92 GXE. I've known for a while now about locked up struts in the back of the car. I spent months looking for the damned receipt for all the money I shelled out about seven to eight years ago so that I could get them replaced under warranty.

Well, that wasn't the smartest thing to do was it? The locked up struts ended up sacrificing the strut mounts as the "new" shock absorbers for the car. As a result, the creaking loud noises coming from the back have plagued the car - and I was told that particular detail wasn't covered under warranty. I couldn't find the receipt, so the best they would do was replace the catridges under the honor system, charge me the labor for those and the mounts, and the price of two new mounts. The price went to $300+, said "screw that".

Well, while they were under the car they asked me if I noticed the dripping fluid that was all underneath the hood. I, of course, replied that I did - it was Dexron fluid for my bleeding power steering system (I think I've found the bad hose). Well, crappy weather (rainy, snowy, icy) makes working on the car a virtual no-go so I used the "fill it up often" method to coax it along until I got some decent weather to tear out all of the old hoses.

I didn't know one important detail that the shop explained very plainly: transmission fluid is corrosive to rubber.

The following is a list of stuff that requires replacement as a result of rotting rubber. What I would like from you all is if you have had experience replacing the part (or repairing it), the difficulty of the repair, and if any special tools are required.

As you all may remember, I got lucky on a really nice engine for this car - the original slush-box transmission (with the help of some Lucas synthetic oil) shifts like a dream even at 240K miles, and it's in relatively good shape (interior and exterior). I would swear by the Lucas stuff - hard shifting (1-2) and soft shifting (2-3) have disappeared.

Legend:

• PS: Passenger Side
• DS: Driver Side

1. PS Bellows Boot
2. PS Outer Tie Rod End
3. PS Inner Tie Rod End
4. DS Outer Tie Rod End
5. DS Inner Tie Rod End
6. PS Control Arm (they said the whole control arm, is bushing replacement feasible/easy to DIY?)
7. PS Strut Bumper (is this really necessary?)
8. DS Strut Bumper (same question)

I've looked at aftermarket tie rod ends and they are much cheaper than what was quoted by the shop (of course). Are they relatively easy to install? I know I would have to get an alignment afterward, but is it possible with the rear struts in the condition that they are? Currently, tire wear is good to very good with evidence of a little additional wear on the inner part of the driver's side tire. However, that tire has quite a bit of play due to the failed outer tie rod end.

They have also mentioned that there is perceptible wear in both PS and DS ball joints (which I believe to be connected to the control arm assembly). I do not notice noise, and wheel play seems to be directly related to the badly worn tie rod ends. Are ball joints pressed in or "user" replaceable on the Maxima? If they are replaceable, is it easy to do so?

Has anyone else had a power steering hose crack/break? Is there a common hose I should like at to replace? I lose about a reservoir (properly filled) of tranny fluid every 3-4 days of 60 miles a day driving.

I would like to keep this VG on the road as long as possible, but having a rotting suspension is just not a good idea for my daily driver. Thanks, guys and gals.

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

1. if your Balljoints are bad, just do the whole arm it includes the ball joint (at least mine do)
2. the strut bumpers are there to keep your struts from bottoming out and causing SERIOUS damage.
3. you don't have a small leak, you have a MASSIVE leak, I'd also recommend replacing you accessory belts as I'm sure they are due for replacement fromthe same leak.
4. if you're doing the inner tie rod, do the boot/bellow with it at the same time. The labor is the same.

No special tools are needed except for maybe making the inner tie rod replacement easier.

just get all the parts from me
http://internetautomart.com/