no power after warm up...I'm out of ideas...VG
03-08-2006, 12:55 PM
#3
Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2001
Posts: 21
I got the same problem with my 92 VG...
It runs just fine when its cold...but after about 10 min of city driving I run out of power. It feels like when the car gets warm the timing gets retarded big time... It's quite a pain.
I cleaned out the white crap that builds up on the dributor cap points and didn't make a difference.
Is there an easy way to check the coolant temp sensor to make sure it's working correctly?
It runs just fine when its cold...but after about 10 min of city driving I run out of power. It feels like when the car gets warm the timing gets retarded big time... It's quite a pain.
I cleaned out the white crap that builds up on the dributor cap points and didn't make a difference.
Is there an easy way to check the coolant temp sensor to make sure it's working correctly?
03-08-2006, 01:18 PM
#4
Try O2 sensor.
when cold it runs fine since the ECU is in open loop.
once the engine warms up (O2 warms up) it goes into close loop and tried to pick up a signal from the O2. If your O2 is lazy or bad then you'll have these problems.
when cold it runs fine since the ECU is in open loop.
once the engine warms up (O2 warms up) it goes into close loop and tried to pick up a signal from the O2. If your O2 is lazy or bad then you'll have these problems.
03-08-2006, 01:32 PM
#6
The Bulgarian Guy
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Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 472
my rear exhaust manifold just started leaking but I had the problem before...I'll try and swap distributers and I'll see what happens although I checked under the cap and everything seems to be fine and clean...
03-08-2006, 01:34 PM
#7
The Bulgarian Guy
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 472
Originally Posted by DanNY
Try O2 sensor.
when cold it runs fine since the ECU is in open loop.
once the engine warms up (O2 warms up) it goes into close loop and tried to pick up a signal from the O2. If your O2 is lazy or bad then you'll have these problems.
when cold it runs fine since the ECU is in open loop.
once the engine warms up (O2 warms up) it goes into close loop and tried to pick up a signal from the O2. If your O2 is lazy or bad then you'll have these problems.
03-08-2006, 01:37 PM
#8
if the sensor is bad then u're gonna get bad/no data regardless of leak or no leak
if the sensor is good...and the engine is running correctly, the leak will just drop ur backpressure which also results in power loss but not as dramatic as a bad sensor
if the sensor is good...and the engine is running correctly, the leak will just drop ur backpressure which also results in power loss but not as dramatic as a bad sensor
03-08-2006, 05:01 PM
#12
The Bulgarian Guy
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Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 472
I've never heard of a knock sensor going bad on a VG but who knows...what I know though is that I'm done with 3rd gens-they were wonderful cars back in the day but age is killing them. As soon as I fix my problem the car will be gone. The next nissan that I'll drive will have the vq35 in it.Thanks for all your input...
03-09-2006, 04:48 AM
#13
Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2001
Posts: 21
Well this 92 is just my winter car so I only got about a month or so left of driving it....My 02 SE sure doesn't have any power loss when it warms up 
I think im gonna try finding a cheap O2 sensor as well as replace the coolant temp sensor. Along with the million other things I need to do to it...
I think im gonna try finding a cheap O2 sensor as well as replace the coolant temp sensor. Along with the million other things I need to do to it...
03-09-2006, 01:19 PM
#16
The Bulgarian Guy
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 472
tonight I'll perform the self diag. and see what I'll pull...I'll do this by finding the screw on the ecu by the left passenger leg, right? I know how to read the leds but the last time I tried looking for the screw I found nothing...
03-25-2006, 03:01 PM
#18
The Bulgarian Guy
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 472
update...
I should've seen this one coming.....NO STORED CODES(55)...at the time I posted this topic I was about ready to set the car on fire. A week later I bought a 98 altima se to flip, and after driving it for about two weeks I had to sit in the maxima again......i am in love again 
I'll start by checking my timing since I had to pull the distributer when doing the valve cover gaskets...still though, the car was running like this when I got it so I have the feling this is not the problem...may be a tps but no code?well, shiiiiiiiiit
I'll start by checking my timing since I had to pull the distributer when doing the valve cover gaskets...still though, the car was running like this when I got it so I have the feling this is not the problem...may be a tps but no code?well, shiiiiiiiiit
03-25-2006, 04:42 PM
#21
Try testing your knock sensor with a 470k resistor in it's place for a few hours....hopefully this test will help you confirm or eliminate the knock sensor as the culprit...
Run some 93 octane during the test to curb detonation....
Run some 93 octane during the test to curb detonation....
03-25-2006, 06:21 PM
#22
Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 32
My car had an exaust leak
right of turbo, before exaust sensor, ran fine for a while, just made extra noise's
as the hole got bigger, the car would slightly overfuel, and make turbo poping noise, untill i fixed the gaskets, then it went back to normal.
Point being, i had a (not so small) exaust leak b4 the sensor and my car still had most/full power...
right of turbo, before exaust sensor, ran fine for a while, just made extra noise's
as the hole got bigger, the car would slightly overfuel, and make turbo poping noise, untill i fixed the gaskets, then it went back to normal.
Point being, i had a (not so small) exaust leak b4 the sensor and my car still had most/full power...
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