Mounting the Clutch Pedal
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 3,306
From: Houston, TX
Mounting the Clutch Pedal
Alright, guys...I'm trying to decide the best way to go about mounting the clutch pedal. Do I have to tear a bunch of insulation out? Would it be easier to cut or remove the current studs that will go thru the firewall and put new ones in from the other way? Are the two studs the only thing securing the pedal?
Also could someone measure the vertical and horizontal distance between the "edge" of the metal piece that the master cylinder mounts to? I don't have a parts car, so this part is looking kind of tricky...I want my pedals to line up.
Also could someone measure the vertical and horizontal distance between the "edge" of the metal piece that the master cylinder mounts to? I don't have a parts car, so this part is looking kind of tricky...I want my pedals to line up.
The hole to bolt the clutch pedal assembly is there on AT and 5spd's from the factory (you'll need the bolt from the 5spd car though). It is located directly above the pedal assembly in what can best be described as the bottom of the dash. I just ran out to double check on it for sure.
You will have to cut away a lot of the rubber and insulation however. A razor works well on this if you’re concerned about a clean look. I just cave-manned away most of it because you'll never notice the difference unless you stick your head under the dash.
Anyways, you'll have to cut holes in the fire wall for the studs on the back of the clutch pedal assembly and the master cylinder. Use a template like others have suggested. I made one with paper and a crayon. A pencil might work better though. Spread the paper out and cover as much area as possible, trying to include the seams on the fire wall, so you can line it up on your car. Use this template to mark and drill pilot holes.
You will need a good drill for this with a hole-saw bit and quality tapping bits. If you do it from the inside, remove the front seat and drop the steering column. If you do it from the outside (inside of the engine bay) use a 90 degree adapter on the drill to get around the strut, sheet metal, etc... I did it from the inside and used a stripped down spare pedal assembly with studs drilled out to get mine lined up. I even went at it with a router to remove excess metal in the way. It worked great but I didn't take my time. Now my firewall looks like Swiss cheese. I'll look for my pedal template and see if its still around. Maybe I can Fed-Ex it to ya.
One thing you won't have that a stock 5spd has is a spacer on the firewall that puts the pedal assembly in proper alignment. I couldn't figure out how to pull it from the donor (probably because it’s welded) so I cut 3/4in-1 3/4in pvc segments. Combine them with flat washers, trial & error, cursing, back aches, etc., and you’re good to go. Remember to adjust the pushrod to the proper length to adjust for the spacer used and the firmness of your clutch...
I hope this helps. Let me know if ya want me to fax you copies of diagrams from my FSM. I'll add 'em to my cardomain site but I doubt they'll be recognizable.
Lata,
Matt
P.S. Check out the new page on my car domain site (page 2)
http://maxima.cardomain.com/ride/531729/2
You will have to cut away a lot of the rubber and insulation however. A razor works well on this if you’re concerned about a clean look. I just cave-manned away most of it because you'll never notice the difference unless you stick your head under the dash.
Anyways, you'll have to cut holes in the fire wall for the studs on the back of the clutch pedal assembly and the master cylinder. Use a template like others have suggested. I made one with paper and a crayon. A pencil might work better though. Spread the paper out and cover as much area as possible, trying to include the seams on the fire wall, so you can line it up on your car. Use this template to mark and drill pilot holes.
You will need a good drill for this with a hole-saw bit and quality tapping bits. If you do it from the inside, remove the front seat and drop the steering column. If you do it from the outside (inside of the engine bay) use a 90 degree adapter on the drill to get around the strut, sheet metal, etc... I did it from the inside and used a stripped down spare pedal assembly with studs drilled out to get mine lined up. I even went at it with a router to remove excess metal in the way. It worked great but I didn't take my time. Now my firewall looks like Swiss cheese. I'll look for my pedal template and see if its still around. Maybe I can Fed-Ex it to ya.
One thing you won't have that a stock 5spd has is a spacer on the firewall that puts the pedal assembly in proper alignment. I couldn't figure out how to pull it from the donor (probably because it’s welded) so I cut 3/4in-1 3/4in pvc segments. Combine them with flat washers, trial & error, cursing, back aches, etc., and you’re good to go. Remember to adjust the pushrod to the proper length to adjust for the spacer used and the firmness of your clutch...
I hope this helps. Let me know if ya want me to fax you copies of diagrams from my FSM. I'll add 'em to my cardomain site but I doubt they'll be recognizable.
Lata,
Matt
P.S. Check out the new page on my car domain site (page 2)
http://maxima.cardomain.com/ride/531729/2
maxitech i got ur pm and Fugi43 basically covered pretty much everything on how to go about makin' the holes on the firewall for the clutch pedal. i did the same thing to mine but i just went to the junkyard and made a template from the donor car and then went back home and just transferred the template over to my car and i used the right angle drill adapter which u can get at a Northern Industry store or a Harbour Freight as well and in the end it worked out great for me too. when u buy the right angle drill adapter make sure u also have the correct measurement for the clutch master hole as well which i believe its an inch 1/2 in diameter but i may be wrong on that cuz its been awhile since i did the swap.
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 3,306
From: Houston, TX
I've got the pedals taken care of now...Tried to mount the flywheel tonight but the bolts that I have are too short (flexplate is far narrower than the flywheel and has stubby bolts.) To be continued tomorrow...
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 3,306
From: Houston, TX
Originally Posted by CyMax
I'm against mounting the pedel, it is rough and would hurt alot! Not to mention how do you even get down there to try?? Weirdo!
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Unclejunebug
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