well my 92 se 5sp has developed a coolant loak over the past couple weeks. its now to the point that i have to replace 1L of water every 2-3 days.

also my oil has just started leaking too. makes a puddle about 3in around from sitting for a couple hours(2-3). im pretty sure the oil is leaking straight from the pan(you will see why i think that)

i dont kno where to look for the coolant leak though, it seems to be driping from the same place the oild is dripping, although, they are not mixed.

here look...
WARNGING BEWARE 56k!!
My oil pan.....(ya i know it needs replaced, already have one)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...k/DSCF0008.jpg

The oil and coolant that leaked since i moved it and jacked it up
(actually the "coolant" is just water for now)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...k/DSCF0009.jpg

More leaked oil built up
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...k/DSCF0007.jpg

And more....
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...k/DSCF0006.jpg

The oil seems to be dripping from the seal where the oil pan dips down(right behind this pully). and the collant is dripping from somewhere VERY close by.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...k/DSCF0005.jpg

Do you guys have any suggestions where to start?
are there any precautions i should take before i take that pully(or anything else) off? other than draining the oil.
is there any thing i need to make note of so i can put it back the same way it was before?

Thanks

*edit
I already have the oil pan gaskets and gasket sealer...sheesh thats a whole nother story(good old auto parts stores not having the correct parts in their system)

 

come on guys...... i know someone can help me out.

i have the y-pipe off and the oil pan unbolted(not removed yet)
All i really need to kno about is taking the pulleys off. i dont know if they need to be put back on a certain way or if i need a special tool to take it off?

 

You will probably need a pully puller, but maybe not. Judging by the ammount of rust I think it's a safe bet you will.

There is only the crank pulley, it's 1 piece so there is no order. You shouldn't have to remove any other pulleys.

For the leak, clean the parts/area really good then watch for oil/coolant to start forming again

For the coolant leak my guess would be water pump, but it looks pretty dry on that side of the engine.

The key thing is to clean it all so you can easily pin point the source.

 

good advice Mrgone. good tjhing you caught me right before i took the oil pan off.

(btw im replacing this oil pan with the one i bought from you )
thanks again

 

Something you can do that is free,tighten up all the oil pan bolts...I will bet you have a few loose...

 

just not too tight, or you'll be wondering why still have an oil leak after you replace the gasket

 

Yup on that...When i replaced my tranny this past fall,i thought i had a leaky rear main seal to replace also...Turned out to be some of the rear bolts on the pan were loose,causing the leak...

 

figured as much


have fun
I need to go put the heads back on the Durango and do the tranny filter and flush, and t-case fluid, and front/rear diff fluid, and coolant, and brake fluid, and other stuff I'm forgetting.

 

Yeah,don't forget that freaking brake fluid...

 

oil pans are hit and miss, some times there are some lose bolts, other times nice and snug (a lot of the time nice and snug ).

Tranny pans love to relax though, slowly drip drip drip. Diff covers/etc stay put, but tranny pan bolts are just lazy (for the most part .... cough RTV cough ).

 

I hate dark (old) brake fluid



I also hate old coolant, but brake fluid more since you can actually see it



It's cold out, I don't want to work on cars right now

 

Yeah,i have had to retighten my tranny pan bolts a few times on my minivan...{pos}

 

lol nice.

well none of the bolts were loose. all nice and tight. Each one "cracked" loose.

i hate that sound.... every time i hear it, im like....."$h|T... oh, nvm" heheh

 

It's still 75 degrees here,and it's dark...

 

a pan bolt would not be a fun one to break



I just had an intake bolt break inside a head, owned by the coolant passage. That was fun

Pushrods aint no 'thang though

 

probably humid too

 

.

 

ya it looks like im going to need a puller

whats my best option? i was thinking rental or buy/return

where can i get one and what methods do they offer?

 

some chains stores just require a deposit which is returned once the tool is...so it's basically a free rental

 

by chain stores you mean autozone, advance auto, etc, etc?

ok ill go and stop by there and see what i can find

 

well i got the puller from autozone for $60, and ill get it back when i return it.

so i got the pully off...

theres a hole(supposed to be there i think) on the waterpump(i think thats what it is).
its the part with a pully on it directly above the main drive pully.
well thats where the water is leaking from. its dripping out of that little hole.

What can i do about it? if its my waterpump do i have to replace it?
if i wanted to could i just shove a rubber quark up there or jb weld or something to seal it?

if i can avoid replacing the pump, in any way, that would be great.

i dont want to put that much time and money into my car(besides i dont have the time or money). if this is the case i will probably be selling the car

 

heres some pics of what im talkin about

 

come on guys, i gotta get this finished before monday night (going back to school)

 

The pump seal is shot. That weep hole is to let out coolant that has seeped past the shaft seal inside and therefore the seal is shot.
No way to rejuvenate it for more than a little while. Best thing is to put on a new one or rebuilt.

 

damn... do i have to pull the engine to get it out??

i heard water pumps are a pain in the anus

 

They are not the easiest thing to change,but not to bad...

Most people take the pump out from the bottom...

 

whats so hard about replacing it? it seems rather accessable. are there some hidden bolts or problems pulling it out?

 

huh? huh? huh?