Exhaust Manifold
04-19-2006, 04:53 PM
#1
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Exhaust Manifold
Ok...I just replaced my timing belt and now I must conquer my leaking rear exhaust manifold. I honestly can not see any broken studs or cracks but it is ticking like a time bomb when I rev the engine. Any tips or advice for tearing this thing off? How can I tell if it is just the gasket or the manifold? I have Matt Blehm's write up on this http://mattblehm.com/faq/REPAIRING%2...LD%20STUDS.txt but any advice you guys could give would be greatly appreciated.
04-19-2006, 05:14 PM
#2
04-19-2006, 07:09 PM
#5
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Originally Posted by vansskaterfreek
are you sure your y-pipe felx section isnt broken????? the rear ones are hard to get to.....good luck...
Thanks Mizeree_X for the info it is giving me confidance on doing this.
04-20-2006, 05:11 AM
#8
I may be wrong here, but I was informed by a mechanic friend of mine that the manifold should be removed and machined in a shop (sanded) so that the new manifold gasket would "seat" properly.
I'm in the process of swapping my engine and recently ordered the studs from http://www.courtesyparts.com/. EACH stud AND nut cost just under $5.00, front and rear manifold gaskets were 14.79 each and I bel. the smaller gaskets that goes onto the y pipe were either a dollar and change or about $3.00 each.Dont recall the EXACT prices.
I'm in the process of swapping my engine and recently ordered the studs from http://www.courtesyparts.com/. EACH stud AND nut cost just under $5.00, front and rear manifold gaskets were 14.79 each and I bel. the smaller gaskets that goes onto the y pipe were either a dollar and change or about $3.00 each.Dont recall the EXACT prices.
04-20-2006, 05:43 AM
#9
Originally Posted by Brudda Bob
I may be wrong here, but I was informed by a mechanic friend of mine that the manifold should be removed and machined in a shop (sanded) so that the new manifold gasket would "seat" properly.
04-20-2006, 06:14 AM
#10
Are you saying that it doesnt have to be machined? My understanding is if the gasket is to be replaced then the manifold should be machined. This would pertain to reusing the ORIGINAL manifold or any USED replacements.
It it's unnecessary to have it machined then I guess I'll have some extra beer money!
It it's unnecessary to have it machined then I guess I'll have some extra beer money!
04-20-2006, 05:47 PM
#13
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Originally Posted by vansskaterfreek
did you take the tin cover off??
04-20-2006, 10:22 PM
#15
the tin cover is not meant to be removed. it is spot welded in several areas over the manifold and protects backyard mechanics (like you) from serious burns. driving with busted studs usually leads to warped manifolds, so it is a good idea to have the flange shaved evenly. it's also a good time to take a dremel and grind down your exhaust maniflod ports for smooth flow.
04-20-2006, 10:49 PM
#16
If you want to get studs that will never snap go with ARP. I purcassed the M8 x 1.25 x 51mm (ARP part # = AF2.000-12GB) studs for $3.29 each. W/shipping my total was $43.74 for 12 studs. The thing is you'll have to call the company directly for this deal since they don't list our application and only sell the "kit" in 10 & 15 packs. Afterwards go down to your local Fastenal/hardware store and purcase stainless steal lock nuts & washers. Some say its overkill, but its worth the peace of mind using stainless steel for a part that notoriously rusts and breaks. here's a link:
http://www.arp-bolts.com/Catalog/Catalog.html
(see catalog pg. 75 for more info) The silver looking ones pictured is what you get. Whats cool is you get the allen wrench starter tip for easy installation.
Thats all I have for now. I broke my left hand and it took me an hour to type this.
lata,
Fugi
http://www.arp-bolts.com/Catalog/Catalog.html
(see catalog pg. 75 for more info) The silver looking ones pictured is what you get. Whats cool is you get the allen wrench starter tip for easy installation.
Thats all I have for now. I broke my left hand and it took me an hour to type this.
lata,
Fugi
04-21-2006, 08:09 AM
#17
I am going to offer my opinion on this issue based on the facts that I have encountered over the years.
I have repaired several Maximas, Pathfinders etc. with the VG or VE engine exhaust leak. I have yet to find one that the manifold was NOT warped and in need of surfacing. You risk breaking another stud when replacing the manifold if you do not ensure that it is perfectly flat. You will be forcing the manifold down flat against the head with the fasteners - not good.
Place a machinist's straightedge flat on the center port, then see if it is necessary to "rock" it back and forth to touch flat on the end ports. My money says yes. How much you can get away with is up for debate; however if properly resurfaced then all doubt is removed.
Yes it is an added cost but this job is not fun to do, much less twice. Parts and labor are high enough; don't shortcut this repair.
I have repaired several Maximas, Pathfinders etc. with the VG or VE engine exhaust leak. I have yet to find one that the manifold was NOT warped and in need of surfacing. You risk breaking another stud when replacing the manifold if you do not ensure that it is perfectly flat. You will be forcing the manifold down flat against the head with the fasteners - not good.
Place a machinist's straightedge flat on the center port, then see if it is necessary to "rock" it back and forth to touch flat on the end ports. My money says yes. How much you can get away with is up for debate; however if properly resurfaced then all doubt is removed.
Yes it is an added cost but this job is not fun to do, much less twice. Parts and labor are high enough; don't shortcut this repair.
04-21-2006, 11:26 AM
#18
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Originally Posted by oldngivout
I am going to offer my opinion on this issue based on the facts that I have encountered over the years.
I have repaired several Maximas, Pathfinders etc. with the VG or VE engine exhaust leak. I have yet to find one that the manifold was NOT warped and in need of surfacing. You risk breaking another stud when replacing the manifold if you do not ensure that it is perfectly flat. You will be forcing the manifold down flat against the head with the fasteners - not good.
Place a machinist's straightedge flat on the center port, then see if it is necessary to "rock" it back and forth to touch flat on the end ports. My money says yes. How much you can get away with is up for debate; however if properly resurfaced then all doubt is removed.
Yes it is an added cost but this job is not fun to do, much less twice. Parts and labor are high enough; don't shortcut this repair.
I have repaired several Maximas, Pathfinders etc. with the VG or VE engine exhaust leak. I have yet to find one that the manifold was NOT warped and in need of surfacing. You risk breaking another stud when replacing the manifold if you do not ensure that it is perfectly flat. You will be forcing the manifold down flat against the head with the fasteners - not good.
Place a machinist's straightedge flat on the center port, then see if it is necessary to "rock" it back and forth to touch flat on the end ports. My money says yes. How much you can get away with is up for debate; however if properly resurfaced then all doubt is removed.
Yes it is an added cost but this job is not fun to do, much less twice. Parts and labor are high enough; don't shortcut this repair.
04-21-2006, 12:17 PM
#22
IMHO, the flange doesn't have to be straight down to 0.000001". Because the thick 3pc gasket can accomodate a slight warp.
IMHO it's not the warping of the flange face that breaks the studs. It's the explansion of the bolts holes outward that snaps them. It's always the end studs that broke on mine. Or at least those are the 1st to go. When the manifold is installed the hole has alot of wiggle room but the studs always seem to be on one end of the hole.
IMHO it's not the warping of the flange face that breaks the studs. It's the explansion of the bolts holes outward that snaps them. It's always the end studs that broke on mine. Or at least those are the 1st to go. When the manifold is installed the hole has alot of wiggle room but the studs always seem to be on one end of the hole.
04-21-2006, 02:16 PM
#23
Dont you think the additional $30.00 to have it machined would give you more peace of mind? Just think of the labour, time and additional expense you would have to endure if this situation reoccured because you didnt have it machined.
It's very possible that it doesnt need to be machined and then again it's possible that it does. How do you rest assured and obliterate all doubts? Have it machined!
Do it once, do it right or dont do it at all!
It's very possible that it doesnt need to be machined and then again it's possible that it does. How do you rest assured and obliterate all doubts? Have it machined!
Do it once, do it right or dont do it at all!
04-21-2006, 03:21 PM
#24
Originally Posted by Brudda Bob
Dont you think the additional $30.00 to have it machined would give you more peace of mind? Just think of the labour, time and additional expense you would have to endure if this situation reoccured because you didnt have it machined.
It's very possible that it doesnt need to be machined and then again it's possible that it does. How do you rest assured and obliterate all doubts? Have it machined!
Do it once, do it right or dont do it at all!
It's very possible that it doesnt need to be machined and then again it's possible that it does. How do you rest assured and obliterate all doubts? Have it machined!
Do it once, do it right or dont do it at all!
Looking at the gasket though, I feel like unless there is gross warpage, the gasket has a more inconsistent surface than the manifold itself. Just my $0.02. I did clean up the contact area with some sandpaper and then a polishing wheel.
04-21-2006, 08:10 PM
#25
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Raining like crazy here and supposed to all weekend so I will have to put this off for a while..I have not driven it much since I heard the leak..I have a 95 Corolla that I have been driving to work (28mpg) and my Dodge Ram if necessary. I spoke to an old Nissan mechanic today and he said I was over confidant in doing this manifold stud job that it was a real pita even while on a lift not to mention lying on my back in the driveway so I am getting a little woried.
..I say no pain no gain and save myself lots of $$$ and do it myself. I looked this up on All Data and it said 2.2 hours labor?? must mean if it is all new and the motor is out of the engine...Has anyone had this done at a shop?
what did they charge in labor?
..I say no pain no gain and save myself lots of $$$ and do it myself. I looked this up on All Data and it said 2.2 hours labor?? must mean if it is all new and the motor is out of the engine...Has anyone had this done at a shop?what did they charge in labor?
04-21-2006, 08:26 PM
#26
Just be prepared for more problems. When I did my last one, I broke two studs off simply REMOVING the old ones. I cannot stress enough the importance of 12 new studs for this job.
04-22-2006, 11:20 AM
#27
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Originally Posted by oldngivout
Just be prepared for more problems. When I did my last one, I broke two studs off simply REMOVING the old ones. I cannot stress enough the importance of 12 new studs for this job.
04-23-2006, 06:25 PM
#28
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Originally Posted by vansskaterfreek
did you take the tin cover off??
The tin cover does not have any bolts..looks like it is part of the manifold..I took a good look at this leak today and I do not see any broken studs..it appears the leak is coming from the top side of the manifold..I will shoot for next weekend...I cant wait to get this back on the road..the Corolla is rattling dog.
05-19-2006, 07:46 AM
#30
ARP has the studs on a 3 week back order, so I'm gonna go with the ones from courtesy...
Can anyone tell me the part number or more details about the studs...They are Z32 (300ZXTT) studs, correct? I talked with a guy in the parts department and they don't list the dimensions.
Can anyone tell me the part number or more details about the studs...They are Z32 (300ZXTT) studs, correct? I talked with a guy in the parts department and they don't list the dimensions.
06-11-2006, 08:47 PM
#32
OK, my plans to replace the exhaust manifold studs keep getting pushed back, but it will get done very soon. My "mechanic" friend who volunteered to help me is convinced from talking to some older mechanic that the studs will strip the threads in the head when the broken studs are being removed.
Question being: Has anyone had to remove the head from the engine in order to re-tap the stud hole?
Question being: Has anyone had to remove the head from the engine in order to re-tap the stud hole?
06-12-2006, 06:08 AM
#33
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you'd have to replace the head gaskets if you take the heads off. It'd be less work to pull the whole engine.
Im doing something similar. Im swapping in my lower milage VG and fixing the broken studs and putting on a timing belt and water pump and all that fun stuff before I do, makes it easy.
~Alex
Im doing something similar. Im swapping in my lower milage VG and fixing the broken studs and putting on a timing belt and water pump and all that fun stuff before I do, makes it easy.
~Alex
06-12-2006, 07:55 PM
#34
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Originally Posted by Alex_V
you'd have to replace the head gaskets if you take the heads off. It'd be less work to pull the whole engine.
Im doing something similar. Im swapping in my lower milage VG and fixing the broken studs and putting on a timing belt and water pump and all that fun stuff before I do, makes it easy.
~Alex
Im doing something similar. Im swapping in my lower milage VG and fixing the broken studs and putting on a timing belt and water pump and all that fun stuff before I do, makes it easy.
~Alex
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=355656
Last edited by Greeny; 12-03-2007 at 07:03 AM.
06-13-2006, 07:02 PM
#36
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Originally Posted by maxitech
Sweet...I just needed proof that having to remove the heads is not going to be required...Now he has no excuse for not fixing it. I already payed him with a case of beer!
dag gone...if you need any tips let me know while it is all still fresh in my head...
06-15-2006, 04:14 PM
#38
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Originally Posted by maxitech
Is it pretty standard to have to helicoil the tapped holes? I'm hoping the new studs will thread right in.
06-15-2006, 05:02 PM
#39
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I think I read some time last year that you could weld a nut to the stud, that was broken off flush with the head, and the welder wont stick to the aluminum head, just the steel nut and stud.
Also I read of some one using some 10mm toyota studs and they were like $1.60 each or some thing like that. You just had to tap them out.
Man I cant wait to start working on this. But like I said before my engine is out of the car and I have my 240sx to drive in the mean time. I just hope the AC still works, I only used it for 10 minuets in the winter to check it....
~Alex
Also I read of some one using some 10mm toyota studs and they were like $1.60 each or some thing like that. You just had to tap them out.
Man I cant wait to start working on this. But like I said before my engine is out of the car and I have my 240sx to drive in the mean time. I just hope the AC still works, I only used it for 10 minuets in the winter to check it....
~Alex
06-15-2006, 06:35 PM
#40
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Originally Posted by Alex_V
I think I read some time last year that you could weld a nut to the stud, that was broken off flush with the head, and the welder wont stick to the aluminum head, just the steel nut and stud.
Also I read of some one using some 10mm toyota studs and they were like $1.60 each or some thing like that. You just had to tap them out.
Man I cant wait to start working on this. But like I said before my engine is out of the car and I have my 240sx to drive in the mean time. I just hope the AC still works, I only used it for 10 minuets in the winter to check it....
~Alex
Also I read of some one using some 10mm toyota studs and they were like $1.60 each or some thing like that. You just had to tap them out.
Man I cant wait to start working on this. But like I said before my engine is out of the car and I have my 240sx to drive in the mean time. I just hope the AC still works, I only used it for 10 minuets in the winter to check it....
~Alex
