I'm sorry I didn't buy my injector from you. It was about the same price from Advanced Auto and I made numerous trips between them and my house and they are less than a mile from my house.

Would you believe I have an Advanced, Auto Zone and Pep Boys and a import car parts place all within a mile of my house? I don't even live in the city!

 

I've got 2 autozones within 2 miles of me FTL

 

Well I just finished about an hour or so ago putting everything back in once I got the injector. Not a single vacuum leak but I was also **** about replacing any hose that looked even slightly suspicious. The gasket's where the easiest part to put on because they have screw holes in them to line everything up.

I screwed up a temperature/coolent sensor but only because when I moved something the damn thing was so corroded it just fell apart. I fixed it ghetto style and it's fine now although I may order a new connector for it. Also there's some box that hooks into the other end of the accelerator cable "rod" that runs through the TB/carborator that I need to move around to get the idle just right. None of the write-ups/manual's I read told me anything about the importance of the position of this "box".

Apart from that everything is cool! Thanks all of you for the advice! I almost freaked out at the end when the car wouldn't start and then realized the fuel pump fuse had not been replaced!!!

Again thanks a lot!

 

glad to hear it worked out ok

 

Hi, I just ordered a fuel injector,intake gaskets and a complete tune up for my Maxima. As for the gaskets is that the only gaskets I need? From reading on here, I thought so. thanks again for the help, I saved several $$$$$ ordering from you.
Randy

 

If you have a VG engine you'll need the EGR gasket and the TB/carb intake gasket. I'm not sure where the IACV is but if you have to remove it to remove the intake you'll probably need that gasket.

Also be prepared to go to a local shop for vacuum hose. If your hoses are cracked on the ends or you end up cracking them when you remove them you'll need to get them replaced.

Vaccum hoses are on tight. In most cases it just take a little arm strength to get them off. I only came across a couple I had to use a flat head to remove by prying between the hose and connector.

Oh I hope you have a torque wrench as well. I applied about 15 ft lbs to the lower intake and 15-16 to the upper intake. The Hayes mention inch lbs which I thought was a little too lose. It's important the intake nuts are all torqued the same so one part of the manifold doesn't sit higher than another part and therefore cause a leak.

 

personally I haven't done a VG, but when we have done them at the shop all we needed was the plenum gasket. If even that

 

I just did my wives VG two days ago. You can't get the fuel injectors out without take the upper manifold (plenum) off and the lower manifold off. The lower manifold actually sits "over" the fuel injectors.

There are two parts to the LOWER manifold. You only need to take the "top" part of the lower manifold off. There is a gasket between the "top" of the lower manifold and the "bottom" of the lower manifold and a gasket between the "top" lower manifold and the upper manifold.

In order to remove the upper manifold you have to unbolt a few things that are bolted to it. Perhaps they is a better way to get it off by just removing hoses and therefore not seperating some stuff. However, I know for sure you'll need an EGR gasket as you can't remove the upper intake while the EGR is bolted to it unless you want to mess with the EGR heat exchange which looked welded to me.

I'm telling ya man! I should really take some pictures but I've lost the USB cable to my camera!!

Of course with a VE you may just need to take the upper manifold off...

 

You don't have to mess with the EGR gasket.
Just loose the nut on the pipe.

 

Hey, I'm glad this was brought up..I'm not really in extreme need of injectors but there is a slight hesitation that you'll notice when you pay attention..I'm probably gonna end up going to the junk yard and practice on one of the junked maximas before I go ahead and work on my baby. Ah yes...cant wait to get my exhaust studs fixed this summer, best 200 bucks that will be ever spent

 

I hjave a VG engine and you guys are confusing the hell out of me. I thought you just needed 1 gasket, I also ordered a Chilton book on my maxima too.
help!!! lol

 

Hey man, I'll try and take some pictures for you tomorrow. I just need to find a damn USB cable for my camera. I'll post them here sometime late afternoon I suppose.

With the VG you need the upper intake manifold gasket and the lower intake manifold gasket AT LEAST. Other, more experianced people will probably know more about how to take the car apart and therefore won't need as many gaskets. Since it was my first time I just started taking apart everything so I needed a couple more gaskets than usual.

There's a lot of crap sitting on top of the upper manifold and how you go about getting the stuff off depends on what I just said. Regardless of how well you get the stuff off the upper manifold (plenum) you'll definitely need an upper gasket and a lower gasket.

------- <-upper manifold/plenum
;;;;;;;; <--top of lower manifold
+++++ <-- fuel injectors
^^^^^ <- lower part of lower manifold

See you only need the first two parts off to get to the injectors. When I bought my manifold gaskets they came in a kit of three gaskets. One for the upper manifold and two for the lower. You won't need to take the lower part of the lower manifold off as you can see so you won't need that extra gasket IF you bought the kit I bought, which I bought from Advanced Auto Parts.

Again I'll take pictures tomorrow!

 

randall: i just got your e-mail and responded last night. let me know what you want to do. you actually need 2 gaskets but they're cheap, costs around $12.

 

I had to special order the USB cord because Fuji camera BLOW. Anyway I'll get the pictures whenever the cable gets here. Sorry! Don't know when you plan on doing the work...

 

Doesn't your camera take a memory card?
it's easier to buy a $5-20 card reader at Fry's or whomever and just read the card.
I do that for my camera

 

I've never really thought of that. Don't know much about digital cameras. I stick mostly to programming and actual computer hardware. I'll have to check it out.

 

So is the best way to get the injector to sit in all of the way to turn it back and forth? I have installed them but seam to be leaking from the bottom seal so I would guess that they need to go in a little farther?

 

screw the hold down on each side a little at a time, oil up the o-ring first or you'll have a challenger disaster on your hands.

 

The injector should also sit flush with where it's sitting. Just compare to how the other injectors look.

Make sure when you screw that cap onto the injector that it is seated right on the injector (i.e. foam part of cap fits on top of injector) then tighen down slowly.

You shouldn't need to put so much force to tighten them down (the two screws for the injector cap). Besides which you rist stripping the screw if you tighten too hard since I'm sure the screws are old

OH and about putting them in. Yes, push down and turn around. When I did mine I didn't feel any specific "pop" or anything to tell me it was seated. I lubbed my O-rings with new motor oil. I really slathered it on too, just be gentle with the injector filter (it's that mesh stuff near the tip of the injector).

 

sounds like you ripped the lower seal. dunno where you can get replacements though, that was my issue when i replaced mine. im sure theyre out there, just dunno where

 

I have the 92 SE so I'm not sure how yours is set up, but I've had nasty problems with the lower "O" rings getting damaged and leaking after assembly. If you pull the injector and find a piece carved out of the "O" ring, you know why it was leaking. You should use a plenty of petroleum grease or vaseline to slick up the "O" rings and gently press them in while rotating the injector. Make sure the fuel rail is smooth and without snags that may gouge the "O" ring.

 

When you guys installed your did you put the lower o-ring on the injector or in the rail first? I'm going to pull my injectors again tonight and reseat them so that I don't have to spend 20.00 to get to work and 20.00 to get home from work... I love my car but at this point I want to shoot it, but I'm scared to as it might blow up....

 

The fuel rail is smooth inside, so they have to go on the injector, surrounded by the plastic tip cap and a plastic ring above it. I used assembly lube, but vaseline should work just as well. Both are petroleum based products and should dissolve and go downstream. DON'T use silicone lubes, since they DON'T dissolve in gas and will clog the injectors. Also inspect the "O" rings before replacing the injectors and replace any with cuts or gouges in them.

 

Thanks for all the help... I will be doing this tonight and will let you know how it went in the morning...

 

You put the O-rings onto the injector first and then pushed the injector into the fuel rail. That's really the only way to go. You may actually want to oil them up before sliding them onto the injector. That's what I did and it made it easier to put them on.

 

Alright..... I pulled the rail up out of the lower intake and turned the key on to find the leak and needless to say I was taken back by what I saw... The number 3 cylinder injector had a bad lower o-ring and was filling up the cylinder with fuel and then dumping it down the exhaust manifold... I replaced the lower o-ring on that cylinder put it back together and pulled it back out of the lower intake again and turned the key to see if I had any more leaks and there were none so back together it went...

I FINALLY GOT MY MAX BACK AFTER 6 MONTHS OF WORK....



Big thanks to all that have put up with my post's and tried to help me... And thank you very much .ORG I do not know what I would have done with out you...

 

Not sure if I helped, but no problem. Fuel injectors are never fun. I hope I never have to do anything beyond that.

 

Well guys, I worked on my maxima for 2 days, I snapped off a screw on the lower intake manifold. The cheap $25 torque wrench I bought wasn't working correctly, I set it for the correct lbs and and didn't quite, So damn it I twisted off a screw in the center, I went ahead and put it all back together.
After several hours, I tried to start the car and had a MAJOR vacum leak, it would only run for 5 seconds then die. After looking for anything that looked disconnected, I finally called my brother who's a service manager 2200 miles away. He said YES snapping the bolt was bad news.

So today I had to have it towed to a repair shop, As of this afternoon, they almost had the snapped bolt drilled out, and said I had other vacum leaks as well. God did I learn my lesson, not to try this again. I'm can do a lot of things, but this was to much for me. It's going to cost me $500 now just to fix what I screwed up.

I have numerous cuts on my hands from tackling this job. I know others have done this with no problems, and maybe if I had an expensive tourque wrench maybe I could have done it too??? Who knows?????

I'm glad I at least tried to do it to save some money, but I will never try it again, for me its not worth it, I thought I would never get the old injector out of the fuel rail, I worked over an hour trying to get the f@#%$%$ thing out! The good is I did tune the car up while I had it all torn down, that was easy and no problem.

thanks for everyones help. I would have never have tried doing this without this website, I'm going to stay on here and maybe learn some of the easier things to do, as I have own my Maxima for 11 years and don't plan on trading anytime soon....

Randal in Portland, OR

 

never used a torque wrench on mine.
no broken bolts or screws either

 

If you don't apply even torque to each nut the mainfold is not garanteed to sit exactly level creating a better potential for vacuum leaks. I would expect you may have some trouble down the road.....

 

Sorry you had such a negative experiance. I actually had my brother-in-law help me with the torque wrench as I'd never used one before, also he had enough muscle to pull the injector out, although he did so with the end of a hammer.

We replaced a lot of the smaller hoses that had cracks to ensure no vacuum leaks. The Hayes manual was pretty useless when it came to doing this job. It's too general as it covers multiple years. I used a downloaded FSM for a 1994 for the job as it tells you exactly what to do.

I have my camera cord now so I can take pictures, at least of what can be taken off the upper manifold, which is where most of the work takes place anyway.

Think about this. Apart from that one nut you messed up you did everything else fine. Perhaps you needed to replace some vacuum hose but apart from that you did OK. If this happened to me it would have turned me off doing anything of the sort again. As it is I hope I never have to replace a fuel injector on a 3rd gen again!

Props for trying man. Knowledge and experiance is never a bad thing when you gain it

 

your gasket should keep the intake sealed assuming you got them torqued down pretty well.
I drove for 2 years or so with no problems. but that doesn't mean anybody else would.
YMMV do it at yer own risk etc...

 

I have a 92 SE, and it's looking like I have a bad injector. It's in the front/left of the engine.

It seems like you can get to it without pulling anything else, am I mistaken? Are all the instructions about pulling the intake manifold assuming that you're replacing either a back/right side injector, or all of them?

 

that would be correct.

 

Yes, You lucked out and have only to pull the front fuel rail (and possibly the valve cover vacuum tube). It should be easy. THen you have to get the injector out of the rail. Good Luck.

 

not even, pop the cap off and then pull the injector.
45 minutes from the time I handed in my keys to the time I got them back

 

Just finished replacing all 6 of my injectors. Running great now! The only problem I ran into was the philips screws on the injector cap. They were so tight that I had to cut 6 of the heads off and buy new ones. Obviously using pan-head philips screws was a design flaw because the new ones I bought had octagon heads so a socket could be used.

As for seating the injectors, I put the o-ring on the injector, lubed it with vaseline, and pushed it firmly into the rail.

 

It wasn't a flaw, you just didn't have the right tool to loosen them.

 

No it was a poor way of fastening down parts that will get corroded, dirty and require significant force to tighten and loosen them. First thing I did was to throw them away and replace them with hex, socket head bolts. Never a problem with them since.