Tom91GXE

I just snapped some pics of the door pods I made for my 8"s. They fit perfectly. I just slapped some paint on them for now, so they don't quite match. They're still a little rough but I'm going to have them covered in black leather be smooth and match.

ozzombie13

iTrader: (3)

hows that feel when drivin? seems to come in a bit

ValveStemThief

clean as hell. that protrusion isn't bad at all...seen much worse. not like your leg is at that angle anyway.

MrGone

iTrader: (30)

I couldn't trust my passengers with them

Greeny

iTrader: (43)

.

Looks nice though..

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

needs just a bit of bondo to smooth out the lines, but it looks pretty good.
Of course, you're about 6 years behind me.

JET_MMPro

Those looks great. I'd definitely build a custom grill for protection. Did you box the back or is open to the inside of the door?

---JET_MMPro

darklegend06

iTrader: (11)

Wow looking nice you guys. Can't beleive you guys can fit a 8's in there your self. Lets just see how big you guys can go. Good luck with out mods.

GRNMAXDMON

iTrader: (1)

we'll make anything fit damnit. the correct and clean way that is.

tripleGmax

iTrader: (8)

that brown is doodoo

Chris Gregg

iTrader: (59)

Looks nice. Try a semi-flat black without clear coat. It matches the color of our interiors better. IMO: I think 8's in the front are too much. Bass stays in the back. Bigger is NOT better. Buy a set of high quality 4's and your system will still scream! My Diamond Audo 4's are loud, clear, and still carry a great deal of midrange which nicely accompanies the 6x9's in the rear (Kicker comps) and the two 12's I have. But, to each their own.

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

Actually, bass should come from the front, just like it does in real music. only rear fill should come from the back.

8s up front is actually very common.. many of the high end 3-way systems are designed for an 8-4-1 up front, and still using a sub elsewere.


YOU try finding something to match the factory tan/brown. - especially when you're trying to finish up the project the night before you're competing at IASCA world finals. also realise that was a 1/2 cu ft sealed enclosure on the door, and those speakers were playing full range at 250w RMS each. there was a very definite purpose for those...

That fugly color is also the reason I bought a grey/black interior one next time around. The grey is still next to impossible to match, but for the most part you can replace with black and it's not too bad...

JET_MMPro

Having the 4 inch speakers up front just don't quite cut it. It places too much of the mid bass behind you. I certainly wouldn't go bigger than 8 inch drivers up front because you'll start to introduce noticeable frequency cancellations. Having the drivers pointed away from each other helps with this.

I just put a set of the new Polk 5x7's up front. These use a built in true crossover and not just a filter for the high's. If you want to really upgrade the sound, I invite you to check them out. You'll be amazed by the imaging.

I wouldn't use 6x9's in the rear deck because you'll need to use the stock adapters and they aren't sealed. I'd spend money on quality 6 or 6.5 inch speakers. Select a pair that'll handle the bass, long throw etc. Then complement the whole thing with high powered subwoofer or two. You'll enjoy sweet tunes.

For grills, go to a fabric store and buy a yard of matching fabric. Stop by Home Depot and buy a section of galvanize 1/4 inch fencing. Cut a ring out of 1/4 inch plywood. Wrap the fencing and fabric on the under side of the ring and mount it.

---JET_MMPro

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

they make grill fabric that is virtually acoustically transparent
much better choice than the fabrics you'll find at most stores

Tom91GXE

Dunno what i'm going to do about grills yet. I will probably just buy some. Matt, I used to have a brown interior, it was impossible to find good brown vinyl that matched. I bet yours sound nice and clean being sealed. ATM mine are just open in the back. I can't really seal them since those 8"s are so deep. Sound deadening will be all I can do. And JET_MM, unfortunately my bass does come from behind me, wish it didn't. But, I like midbass, so 8"s are my friend. I also don't use rear fill, when was the last time you were at a concert and the music came from behind you.

Chris Gregg

iTrader: (59)

Again, to each their own. Individuals who go to this extent know what they like. Good work. Like to see it all finished up.

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

Here's one way to help out...
http://blehmco.com/pics/old_max/car_...or_no_skin.jpg

use some dynamat to seal off the small holes in the doors, and for the larger ones, a piece of 1/4 or 3/8" plywood backed with 3/4" open-cell foam will help to seal between the front and rear door skin..
the only problem in your case will be coupling the 8" midbass to the door itself instead of the plastic of the cover panel.. with that much air moving in the door, I'm willing to bet you have a bunch of issues with the whole door just shaking. couple the door pod to the steel in the door if you havent' already, and that will help a lot.
I've even seen guys take some small pieces of angle iron and place it behind the steel inner door skin to use as reinforcement. only adds a pound or two per door and shouldn't interfere with any of the mechanicals or wiring inside it. should stiffen things up quite a bit.

and yes, the sealed enclosures sounded awesome. nice, clean, LOW, and loud when I wanted it to be. 200W RMS going to each mid didn't hurt either. when I was competing in SQ, I'd run the mids full-range and run the sub at 40hz and down at -24dB. when I wanted to play loud, I'd bump the crossover to 100hz on both and run the subs at about -6dB. for SPL, I'm sure you can figure out what I did.

tripleGmax

iTrader: (8)

im not saying the skill to lay that down was bad, but the color is bad. nice work though on making it look good!

AscendantMax

iTrader: (7)

damn, that looks pretty good. where are you going to mount your highs? i don't know why i never installed a component system in the 3rd gen when i was still driving it.

MrSector9

iTrader: (4)

matt from the pics on your site it is kinda hard to tell.

When you made your sealed door pods did you make a mold of the original bottom of the door skina nd then layed up inside of that? cover with vinyl when finised? How did you attach it securely to the door?

Tom91GXE

I'm fiberglassing the tweets into the little kick panels. They are way too big for the sails/A-pillar and they should work better closer to on axis.

Tom91GXE

If he did that, he's the MASTER. I tried that at first, made a mold, build from there. I couldn't get that **** to fit for the life of me. That plus the fact that it's a GIANT pain in the *** made me throw it out and make these.

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

Yes, I made a mold of the original door panel.. basically just wrapped it in a trash bag and mashed it into a small trough filled with plaster of paris. when it hardened, I removed the stock pod from the mold and then used various grinding tools to shape it more the way I wanted it.
Once I got the general outline down that I wanted, I covered it in mold release and laid some fiberglass in it. flipped it over and figured out how to attach it to the door (1/4" x 3" bolts hidden under the vinyl in the corners)..

Then I goofed around with some MDF rings and a bunch of random pieces until I got the speakers aimed where I wanted.. after that, it was a matter of just laying glass over the speaker pod area, then sanding everything smooth. couple layers of bondo and a bunch of sanding and I had a door pod... stretching the vinyl over it was the hardest part. had to use 2-way stretch vinyl instead of the regular 1-way stuff, so it was quite $$ and color selection was limited.

MrSector9

iTrader: (4)

Cool thanks alot, Currently I am thinking of modding/FG the stock panel, using a different backing piece (1/4" ply coated wiht resin). Not overly sure yet.

For finshing i plan on the smoothing and then trying the SEM texture spray/black vinyl color dye/paint. I am sure I wil have to practice witha can or 2 to get the texture I want (as close to sotck as possible) but with some of the work I have seen with this stuff it is amazing. Also plan on mounting the crossover in there possibly also.

Here is a link of a panel done in the SEM texture spray/dye setup. Very "stock" looking finish.

http://www.hzemall.com/our_gallery/i...s/P1010505.JPG

rafanthony

What is that cord hanging down under the steering wheel? I have the same cord and was wondering?

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

That's the connector for Nissan CONSULT system. You can just tuck it into the kick panel in the corner, or zip tie it to something else so it's not dangling in the way.

JET_MMPro

With all of the great construction suggestions, I'd place the tweeters at the upper end of the arm rest plane.

---JET_MMPro

fonzys_max

that looks good man . all its needs is that leather.

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

Horrible spot. Your pathlength differences are insane, and your soundstage will be at your knees. you want them mounted as high up as you can and as far away from your head as you can to equalize the pathlength differences.

speed_addiction

research and design are 10 times more important than construction. expecially when it comes to audio. otherwise, nice job

Tom91GXE

Yeah, the tweets are going into the kicks for now. They aren't normal sized, they're like 4 inches in diameter for the cutout. When I get my 2" midranges for the 3way, i'll move them to the apillar and put the midrange down there. Since this isn't an all out sq car. I'm doin what I can without cuting everything up/losing a ton of space.

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

Yeah, that's always the compromise. I thought about buying a spare set of door and kick panels once just so I could chop holes in them and play around with 'em for the best locations. never got around to it and just gave up on the stereo when I got bit by the go-fast bug.