Help? stuttering/misfire under acceleration/load
#41
Originally Posted by CandiMan
Have you tried pulling engine codes?
any tips before i break that too?
#42
Originally Posted by laggytoad
no. never done it before and was afraid I'd accidentally erase the ECU (ECM?) memory or that it already has been erased since the battery was replaced just before the plug wires were changed and then it quit running. any tips before i break that too?
#43
Codes
Originally Posted by CandiMan
Have you tried pulling engine codes?
Code 11=Crank Angle Sensor
Code 33=Exhaust Gas Sensor is open
Not sure how the ECU works for Diag Mode III since the car won't run (would the errors be from stored memory when it did run or current errors while trying to start it?)
Would 33 keep a car from starting?
Code 11 seems more likely the culprit to me, but hey what do I know.
Would a faulty crank sensor mess it up enough to make it not start?
I assume if it is the culprit I would need a new distributor too?
#44
Originally Posted by laggytoad
I get:
Code 11=Crank Angle Sensor
Code 33=Exhaust Gas Sensor is open
Not sure how the ECU works for Diag Mode III since the car won't run (would the errors be from stored memory when it did run or current errors while trying to start it?)
Would 33 keep a car from starting?
Code 11 seems more likely the culprit to me, but hey what do I know.
Would a faulty crank sensor mess it up enough to make it not start?
I assume if it is the culprit I would need a new distributor too?
Code 11=Crank Angle Sensor
Code 33=Exhaust Gas Sensor is open
Not sure how the ECU works for Diag Mode III since the car won't run (would the errors be from stored memory when it did run or current errors while trying to start it?)
Would 33 keep a car from starting?
Code 11 seems more likely the culprit to me, but hey what do I know.
Would a faulty crank sensor mess it up enough to make it not start?
I assume if it is the culprit I would need a new distributor too?
-disconnect the battery
-check, re-check and re-check all connections under the hood. Make sure all connections are clean and corrosion free. Check both sensors and switches, especially the CAS that code 11 is refering to and make sure the o2 sensor is connected and/or clean.
-come back the next day (or a few hours later) and connect the battery. Pull the ECM codes to make sure everything is clear, code 55 meaning all is well. What you're attempting is to have a fresh new start.
-At that point try to start the car and see what happens. More than likely it still will not start or still run rough, but you never know.
-after trying to start the car or after the engine is running rough, pull the ECM codes again.
-if you're still getting code 11 that's definately something to look at, or any new code for that matter.
Bad corroded connections can cause you chase ghost codes or replace items that doesn't need repalcing.
#45
sounds like a plan, i'll go pull the neg cable now. I did a pretty through check of every connector in the engine area last night just to make sure nothing looked suspicious.
so I'm assuming that the Crank Angle Sensor issue (if valid) is only fixed with a whole new distributor?
so I'm assuming that the Crank Angle Sensor issue (if valid) is only fixed with a whole new distributor?
#46
Originally Posted by laggytoad
sounds like a plan, i'll go pull the neg cable now. I did a pretty through check of every connector in the engine area last night just to make sure nothing looked suspicious.
so I'm assuming that the Crank Angle Sensor issue (if valid) is only fixed with a whole new distributor?
so I'm assuming that the Crank Angle Sensor issue (if valid) is only fixed with a whole new distributor?
#47
Check engine light
I started my car today and the idle was rough and the check engine light was on. Later during the day the problem went away, including the check engine light. Anyone have and similar issues, or know what happened?
#49
Originally Posted by laggytoad
sounds like a plan, i'll go pull the neg cable now. I did a pretty through check of every connector in the engine area last night just to make sure nothing looked suspicious.
so I'm assuming that the Crank Angle Sensor issue (if valid) is only fixed with a whole new distributor?
so I'm assuming that the Crank Angle Sensor issue (if valid) is only fixed with a whole new distributor?
Hey Laggy how did you check your ECM and where is it located. I know its real hard to find OB1 reader around way.
I just wanted to know for future refrence.
#50
Originally Posted by Mr.Davon24
Hey Laggy how did you check your ECM and where is it located. I know its real hard to find OB1 reader around way.
I just wanted to know for future refrence.
I just wanted to know for future refrence.
#51
Originally Posted by MyGreenMax94
Thanks I feel silly now
#57
Originally Posted by Mr.Davon24
well I am kind of new to this I think it's a VE. I have a 91 gxe v6
You have a vg sohc engine...
First,check the wiring/plug harnesses going to the knock sensor and idle air control valve for bad/broken connections/and corrosion[green looking crap]...
#58
You know what I was looking at the check engine light blinking instead of the green and red light on the ECM does that matter? Also do you know of a diagram to locate the knock???? Sorry for all the random ?s just trying to educate myself. Note* engine light was never on and car has been running pretty damn good since I've gotten her. Sometime is does sputter though with no back fire.
*edit*
would it be in the same location as the gen 4?
*edit*
would it be in the same location as the gen 4?
#59
Originally Posted by Mr.Davon24
You know what I was looking at the check engine light blinking instead of the green and red light on the ECM does that matter? Also do you know of a diagram to locate the knock???? Sorry for all the random ?s just trying to educate myself. Note* engine light was never on and car has been running pretty damn good since I've gotten her. Sometime is does sputter though with no back fire.
*edit*
would it be in the same location as the gen 4?
*edit*
would it be in the same location as the gen 4?
The k/s sensor is located on the back side of the engine block,next to the oil filter,the harness plug has just one wire going to it iirc..
#61
My 96 Maxima began accelerating poorly the other day. It feels like it has dead cylinder/cylinders because it runs roughly and loses power when it does this. It is somewhat intermittent occurring during acceleration at 1/4 throttle. It goes from smooth powerful acceleration to poor rough running accel and also while pulling a low rpm pull from 2nd or 3rd gear while the motor is under load.
I took it to a mechanic and he said I need a new air mass meter. Yikes, these aren't cheap. I hope I explained this clearly enough. I read in the thread something about coil packs. What are these? Could this be a problem instead of the mass meter? Are they cheaper to replace? How many are there? In an instant the car goes from hauling *** to just sounding like its hauling *** but just dragging ***. I should mention I put a Stillen intake kit on it a few months ago but its run great up till the other day. Does anyone have an idea what my cars problem may be? Please help an old guy who still likes to floor it and shift gears.
Thanks
I took it to a mechanic and he said I need a new air mass meter. Yikes, these aren't cheap. I hope I explained this clearly enough. I read in the thread something about coil packs. What are these? Could this be a problem instead of the mass meter? Are they cheaper to replace? How many are there? In an instant the car goes from hauling *** to just sounding like its hauling *** but just dragging ***. I should mention I put a Stillen intake kit on it a few months ago but its run great up till the other day. Does anyone have an idea what my cars problem may be? Please help an old guy who still likes to floor it and shift gears.
Thanks
#62
My 96 Maxima began accelerating poorly the other day. It feels like it has dead cylinder/cylinders because it runs roughly and loses power when it does this. It is somewhat intermittent occurring during acceleration at 1/4 throttle. It goes from smooth powerful acceleration to poor rough running accel and also while pulling a low rpm pull from 2nd or 3rd gear while the motor is under load.
I took it to a mechanic and he said I need a new air mass meter. Yikes, these aren't cheap. I hope I explained this clearly enough. I read in the thread something about coil packs. What are these? Could this be a problem instead of the mass meter? Are they cheaper to replace? How many are there? In an instant the car goes from hauling *** to just sounding like its hauling *** but just dragging ***. I should mention I put a Stillen intake kit on it a few months ago but its run great up till the other day. Does anyone have an idea what my cars problem may be? Please help an old guy who still likes to floor it and shift gears.
Thanks
I took it to a mechanic and he said I need a new air mass meter. Yikes, these aren't cheap. I hope I explained this clearly enough. I read in the thread something about coil packs. What are these? Could this be a problem instead of the mass meter? Are they cheaper to replace? How many are there? In an instant the car goes from hauling *** to just sounding like its hauling *** but just dragging ***. I should mention I put a Stillen intake kit on it a few months ago but its run great up till the other day. Does anyone have an idea what my cars problem may be? Please help an old guy who still likes to floor it and shift gears.
Thanks
you have a 4th gen, not a 3rd gen....... go ask them. they know more about 4th gens that i even WANT to know.