Step 1: Strip car
06-17-2006, 10:18 PM
#6
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Copy/paste from the other forum
The pics pretty much explains itself. I'm stripping the car to help lower the cost of painting. Besides the molding/frame around the rear glass and on top of the windshield, everything else that's either rubber or plastic was removed. If it wasn't for those trim pieces I would have absolutely no masking lines. I plan on masking of the rear glass myself, which I'll pull back the molding and tape it on the rear glass. Mike, I know you know what I'm talking about because it was your suggestion.
The plan is to keep the car white, and to be honest I might keep my side door molding. They serve a lot more purpose being on than off, but I did take them off the car for painting.
They will paint the bumper covers, grill, door moldings and Stillen kit seperately off the car. Then I'll re-install everything. Depending on how I feel I might do the door, trunk and hood jams myself. They charge extra to do those area. Since these areas are out of sight I wouldn't mind using the spray can to touch them up.
06-18-2006, 11:30 AM
#7
looks good thats how i am gonna do my maxima when i get ready to paint it. it is just so much easier and chepaer to strip it yourself. you really dont need to be to handy with tools to do it and its save you lots of time and body hours with the paint shop.
06-19-2006, 03:52 PM
#10
Awesome! I am planning on repainting the Max next summer. Some quick questions for ya...
(1) Why did you remove the interior door panels?
(2) How did you remove the door sideguards?
(3) That's a monstrous garage, why not do it at home?
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(1) Why did you remove the interior door panels?
(2) How did you remove the door sideguards?
(3) That's a monstrous garage, why not do it at home?
Subscribed like WHOA
06-19-2006, 05:00 PM
#11
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Originally Posted by Metal Maxima
Awesome! I am planning on repainting the Max next summer. Some quick questions for ya...
(1) Why did you remove the interior door panels?
(2) How did you remove the door sideguards?
(3) That's a monstrous garage, why not do it at home?
Subscribed like WHOA
(1) Why did you remove the interior door panels?
(2) How did you remove the door sideguards?
(3) That's a monstrous garage, why not do it at home?
Subscribed like WHOA
2)Flat screw driver, pry the corner up and pull
3)Don't temp me
Dan, you're coorect I might send the money and get a door shell
06-19-2006, 07:04 PM
#13
Originally Posted by DanNY
try to see if you can get another door for the rear.
edit: When are you planning on taking it to the shop Mike?
06-19-2006, 09:12 PM
#14
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Originally Posted by Michael
When are you planning on taking it to the shop Mike?
Between home stuff, family, and now the Max I've officially bitten off more than I can chew. For all you guys who have local friends and family who's always willing to lend a helping hand, you better count your blessings.
So to answer your question when am I planning on taking it to the shop, I don't know. But let me ask you this, if you wanted to re-paint your door, trunk and hood jams would you do the jams first then paint the car. Keep in mind I'll be painting the jams with spray paint. How about the interior, would you sound damping the interior before painting the car? What would be your order of things if you wanted to paint the jams, paint the exterior and sound damping the interior?
06-20-2006, 02:01 AM
#15
Originally Posted by DanNY
try to see if you can get another door for the rear.
cmon Mike, I remember that air compressor you got a while ago, doooo iiiiiitttt
06-20-2006, 07:16 AM
#16
Originally Posted by CandiMan
Mike to be honest with you, what I'm starting to realize is that whenever you start a project (home remodling, auto repair, stamp collection, landscape work) you start off saying "I want to do X, Y and Z" But as you start the project and go deeper into the project you start saying to yourself, since I'm doing X I might as well do Xa and Xb. Then you start Y and you realize the same thing, and so on and so on. It's a classic case that you should always add 10% onto your budget and time, regardless of which project you plan on doing.
Between home stuff, family, and now the Max I've officially bitten off more than I can chew. For all you guys who have local friends and family who's always willing to lend a helping hand, you better count your blessings.
So to answer your question when am I planning on taking it to the shop, I don't know. But let me ask you this, if you wanted to re-paint your door, trunk and hood jams would you do the jams first then paint the car. Keep in mind I'll be painting the jams with spray paint. How about the interior, would you sound damping the interior before painting the car? What would be your order of things if you wanted to paint the jams, paint the exterior and sound damping the interior?
Between home stuff, family, and now the Max I've officially bitten off more than I can chew. For all you guys who have local friends and family who's always willing to lend a helping hand, you better count your blessings.
So to answer your question when am I planning on taking it to the shop, I don't know. But let me ask you this, if you wanted to re-paint your door, trunk and hood jams would you do the jams first then paint the car. Keep in mind I'll be painting the jams with spray paint. How about the interior, would you sound damping the interior before painting the car? What would be your order of things if you wanted to paint the jams, paint the exterior and sound damping the interior?
I would paint the door jambs first but to be honest i dont think I would use rattle can paint. Thats just me but it will chip easier and will not look as good as your nice new paint job you will have on the outside. To be honest the way I would do it (and the way I am doing my next paint job on a Maxima) is pull the trunk, hood and doors (pull from the door side so you dont have to mess with adjustments so much) and paint it all off the car. That way you can just tape up the interior like I did in my pic below and paint the jambs along with the rest of the car. Its a little more work though.
I would be careful though and not take it too far like I did or eventually it might wind up like mine did (just sitting being used as a parts car while I fix up two VE5s (the 92 PA has and my current 93).
06-20-2006, 04:07 PM
#19
Originally Posted by internetautomar
nice jeep wheel, 4x4 much? 
I put those on when a hurricane was coming (I think Ivan) because I didnt want the car to fall on its suspension if it was blown off the jack stands.
06-20-2006, 08:04 PM
#21
Originally Posted by Metal Maxima
Awesome! I am planning on repainting the Max next summer. Some quick questions for ya...
(1) Why did you remove the interior door panels?
(2) How did you remove the door sideguards?
(3) That's a monstrous garage, why not do it at home?
Subscribed like WHOA
(1) Why did you remove the interior door panels?
(2) How did you remove the door sideguards?
(3) That's a monstrous garage, why not do it at home?
Subscribed like WHOA
looking good so far.......... i would change the front door though, fixed rust never goes away.
06-20-2006, 08:49 PM
#22
Originally Posted by Michael
I put those on when a hurricane was coming (I think Ivan) because I didnt want the car to fall on its suspension if it was blown off the jack stands.
06-20-2006, 10:28 PM
#23
Originally Posted by Chris91SE
was that the storm i drove through to get to NOPI that year?
no this was the year before last...remember my car was at some guys shop supposedely being finished when I went to NOPI that year...thats been 4 years ago almost I think (maybe 3)...has Dan gotten his extinguisher yet lol
.
06-21-2006, 03:11 AM
#24
Originally Posted by Michael
no this was the year before last...remember my car was at some guys shop supposedely being finished when I went to NOPI that year...thats been 4 years ago almost I think (maybe 3)...has Dan gotten his extinguisher yet lol .
.
06-21-2006, 04:39 AM
#25
Originally Posted by Michael
no this was the year before last...remember my car was at some guys shop supposedely being finished when I went to NOPI that year...thats been 4 years ago almost I think (maybe 3)...has Dan gotten his extinguisher yet lol .
.
.............
06-21-2006, 06:38 PM
#26
Originally Posted by Michael
no this was the year before last...remember my car was at some guys shop supposedely being finished when I went to NOPI that year...thats been 4 years ago almost I think (maybe 3)...has Dan gotten his extinguisher yet lol .
.
06-21-2006, 07:09 PM
#27
Originally Posted by DanNY
focker is either huffing it or using it as a door stop.
lol...let me see if I can come up with another one (he had a few at the time but not sure if he has any right now) and see how much a hazard shipment will be. i will email you later if I find something so I dont ***** up Mike's thread anymore.
09-27-2006, 09:33 PM
#29
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Originally Posted by Metal Maxima
Sorry to bump an old thread, but whatever became of this project?
For you guys with sagging 3rd gen doors you should know about these. I bought four hinges for both front doors.
And finally it was towed to the body shop with no fenders, bumpers or doors under the cover
While I took the doors and fenders
09-27-2006, 09:58 PM
#31
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Due to my home project I had going on at the same time I wasn't able to get too many in progress pics. All I got was the doors being sanded and primed and finally after the body and panels were painted and cleared.
09-27-2006, 10:10 PM
#32
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Originally Posted by elusivemax93
dang dude you got alot of rust on your max
09-27-2006, 11:57 PM
#33
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Here's one more in progress pics
The body panels and Stillen kit was wrap and taken home
And finally the car being towed back home
I initially tried to work something out with Michael, having him paint the car. We are a tad bit too far apart from each other to have this job done with no hassle. So I said heck with it a took it to a local shop. I had a couple high end body shops in mind but reality and life came into play and I took it to a local Maaco. This establishment uses BASF products compared to some of the other high end shop that uses Silkens, Dupont, etc.
The plan is for me to put on the body panels and take it back for the final buffing. So far I've installed the rear bumper and hung the four doors, but all four door hinges and stricker needs adjustment. After the doors then the fender and front bumper. What you can't see in the pics is that they did the hood and trunk jams and painted the underside of those two pieces. So far I'm pleased with the results. They could have taped off the rear window molding a little bit better but if you're firmiliar with the rear window molding on a 3rd gen you'll know it's a molding that can't be removed unless the glass is removed. It's not a perfect 10 but it's pretty reasonable for the $2150 price tag.
Since I went through all the trouble of removing the trim pieces and panels I could have went for a different or custom color. Then I would have to paint the engine bay and truck area, besides I like the white.
The body panels and Stillen kit was wrap and taken home
And finally the car being towed back home
I initially tried to work something out with Michael, having him paint the car. We are a tad bit too far apart from each other to have this job done with no hassle. So I said heck with it a took it to a local shop. I had a couple high end body shops in mind but reality and life came into play and I took it to a local Maaco. This establishment uses BASF products compared to some of the other high end shop that uses Silkens, Dupont, etc.
The plan is for me to put on the body panels and take it back for the final buffing. So far I've installed the rear bumper and hung the four doors, but all four door hinges and stricker needs adjustment. After the doors then the fender and front bumper. What you can't see in the pics is that they did the hood and trunk jams and painted the underside of those two pieces. So far I'm pleased with the results. They could have taped off the rear window molding a little bit better but if you're firmiliar with the rear window molding on a 3rd gen you'll know it's a molding that can't be removed unless the glass is removed. It's not a perfect 10 but it's pretty reasonable for the $2150 price tag.
Since I went through all the trouble of removing the trim pieces and panels I could have went for a different or custom color. Then I would have to paint the engine bay and truck area, besides I like the white.
09-28-2006, 03:19 PM
#37
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Originally Posted by shavedmax
and the final outcome was.....................................
Originally Posted by mikekantor
If you dont mind me asking, how much did this cost and what was the turnaround from the shop? I'd like to get a new paintjob within the next few months.
I paid $2150, and I was willing and ready to pay $3500 at a higher end establishment but shet happens and I didn't go that route. The turn around time was extremely long because I told them I wasn't in a rush. If you've ever dealt with vendors that's the last thing you want to tell them. "I'm not in a rush" because they will put you on the back burner. That I knew and I was willing to accept it.
09-28-2006, 06:01 PM
#39
Originally Posted by mikekantor
If you dont mind me asking, how much did this cost and what was the turnaround from the shop? I'd like to get a new paintjob within the next few months.
