Ok so I am having my fuel injector issue again it seems, My engine is running rough and threw a code 34 and 51 which are detonation and injector circuit open. With the engine running I pulled the connectors one by one on each coil pack. Each one made the engine run even worse except for the rear middle cyliner. When I pulled that connector it didnt make any difference. So that leads me to believe that that injector is faulty. Does that sound right to you? I called around for repair prices, dealer wanted $451 which is a rip and this pretty trusted place down the road wanted $360 worst case cenario if it was the more expensive injector. Any thoughts?

 

Are you handy with a wrench??

You could replace it yourself if you are and save a few hundred in labor costs..

If not,then $360 is about right...

 

Oh..The code 31 can be fixed while the injectors are being replaced...They just need to remove the lower intake manifold to access the knock sensor...

 

Could the faulty injector and the engine running rough cause the detonation? If thats the case then the knock sensor wouldent be bad and I would just replace the injector

 

Naw,the two codes are completely separate from one another...The knock sensor going bad is fairly common for the ve engine...


Replace the knock sensor,or it the ecu will automaticly retard your timing,thus causing a severe lack of power from from idle to about 3500 rpm...

 

Well i know there seperate, but could the injector of went bad and made the engine knock which then threw a code from the knock sensor? So if i replace the injector and the engine stops knocking then the code from the knock sensor would go away. Does that make sense?

 

If you're getting a knock sensor code on the engine computer, that means that the knock sensor has a bad connection or continuity throught it. The knock sensor could be activated (sensing knock) because of a bad injector, but sensing a knock means it's working correctly, not that the sensor is bad and needs to send a fault indication that would generate the computer.
And I concur with above comment. If you are going to need to pull the intake plenum and fuel rail and all, pulling off the manifold and coolant crossover pipe is not that much work. Easier than getting the plenum and all back on and finding out you need to rip it all off and replace the knock sensor.
I don't remember if on the '94 you can get at the knock sensor without removing the plenum. If it's out in the open, then just test it and the wiring. (see autozone repair writeup).

 

have them do the knock sensor, there should be NO additional labor charge to do the injector at the same time.
FWIW, my old max had a bad knock, but it never tripped a code. come to think of it, none of my maxs have EVER tripped code with a total of 10 injectors replaced so far.

 

Well my friends going to let my car shack up in his garage so i can work on it whenever I get the time to. I deff can do the work, i was just without a garage to work in it. Now where is the best place to get a injector and a knock sensor?

 

http://internetautomart.com/

 

Ok so for some reason I thought there was 2 diff injectors for my car. But on your site you only have one choice listed. Also is doesnt list a option to buy a throttle body gasket, do you have those availiable?

 

VE only had 1 injector option.
why do you need a throttle body gasket???
We've done about 10 injectors on 2 of my VEs and the TB never came off.
I don't have one listed because it isn't needed.

 

He probably meant the intake manifold gasket...

 

actually I have had a few people ask me for the TB gasket before.
BTW it's the Plenum gasket that should be replaced

 

Tomato/Tomato....

 

Alright, placed the order today with you guys. Ordered a knock sensor, injector, plenum gasket, and since i am going to be back there I ordered a PCV valve and a valve cover gasket.