A strange Electrical Problem
#1
A strange Electrical Problem
I just fired up my car, and the rpms fire up, then the tachometer died and the Batter idiot light is on.
I checked the 10A fuse for the "Meter," i.e. the gauges, and it was burnt out. I replaced it and started the car. Immediately, it fried that fuse. THe odometer no longer turns either, but the car drives normal, and the alternator is outputting 14.56 amps under load.
Also, my shift lock mechanism is not working, for when I step on the pedal to shift, it does NOT click. I have to use the shift-lock release. The fuse for the shift lock mechanism is OK.
Is it a bad gauge cluster? A bad shifter solenoid? The fact the car is burning fuses is worrying me.
Thanks to anyone who might be able to help.
I checked the 10A fuse for the "Meter," i.e. the gauges, and it was burnt out. I replaced it and started the car. Immediately, it fried that fuse. THe odometer no longer turns either, but the car drives normal, and the alternator is outputting 14.56 amps under load.
Also, my shift lock mechanism is not working, for when I step on the pedal to shift, it does NOT click. I have to use the shift-lock release. The fuse for the shift lock mechanism is OK.
Is it a bad gauge cluster? A bad shifter solenoid? The fact the car is burning fuses is worrying me.
Thanks to anyone who might be able to help.
#2
Originally Posted by Will
I just fired up my car, and the rpms fire up, then the tachometer died and the Batter idiot light is on.
I checked the 10A fuse for the "Meter," i.e. the gauges, and it was burnt out. I replaced it and started the car. Immediately, it fried that fuse. THe odometer no longer turns either, but the car drives normal, and the alternator is outputting 14.56 amps under load.
Also, my shift lock mechanism is not working, for when I step on the pedal to shift, it does NOT click. I have to use the shift-lock release. The fuse for the shift lock mechanism is OK.
Is it a bad gauge cluster? A bad shifter solenoid? The fact the car is burning fuses is worrying me.
Thanks to anyone who might be able to help.
I checked the 10A fuse for the "Meter," i.e. the gauges, and it was burnt out. I replaced it and started the car. Immediately, it fried that fuse. THe odometer no longer turns either, but the car drives normal, and the alternator is outputting 14.56 amps under load.
Also, my shift lock mechanism is not working, for when I step on the pedal to shift, it does NOT click. I have to use the shift-lock release. The fuse for the shift lock mechanism is OK.
Is it a bad gauge cluster? A bad shifter solenoid? The fact the car is burning fuses is worrying me.
Thanks to anyone who might be able to help.
#4
Update: I replaced the shifter solenoid with a spare, which didn't do anything. That led me to re-replace my gauge cluster with my original one, and it seems to have solved the problem and not blow any fuses. I'll take the car out for a drive tonight.
I had the white-faced SE gauges in the car, and I'm guessing the fact that the SE gauge was for a manual car, and that I had to replace the bezel on it must not have agreed with the car's electronics, even though everything was fine for over a year. Ah well; back to boring black-faced GXE gauges.
I had the white-faced SE gauges in the car, and I'm guessing the fact that the SE gauge was for a manual car, and that I had to replace the bezel on it must not have agreed with the car's electronics, even though everything was fine for over a year. Ah well; back to boring black-faced GXE gauges.
#5
Originally Posted by Will
I had the white-faced SE gauges in the car, and I'm guessing the fact that the SE gauge was for a manual car, and that I had to replace the bezel on it must not have agreed with the car's electronics, even though everything was fine for over a year. Ah well; back to boring black-faced GXE gauges.
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Last edited by Pearl93VE; 03-25-2011 at 04:15 PM.
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