Sumting wong! I need to know soon!

Whats with this gap being uneven? I can't budge it.

 

Also can anyone tell me what to lube the pivot points of the fork with?

 

 

what about the gap in the bearing? is it normal?

 

No,it looks defective to me....I would take it back...

 

I can't, I ordered it...

I can't remember, but I THOUGHT it looked like this before. The last time I replaced the bearing.

It's gotta be right...

 

Then throw it in there mang..

 

NM I fixed it.

 

How? .

 

...slide it over.

It's got a mm of slide from the bearing to the housing.

 

you should use some high temp multi-purpose grease...Although I usually use regular multi-purpose grease. It seems to work just fine.

That ISB doesn't look too good...

 

ISB Input Shaft Bearing?

It's not it's a Fork realease bearing. I got it to center right, it was no big thing.

 

I'm an idiot, lol. Look at the fine print in your diagram...

 

once again, I'm an idiot, lol. I need to learn to read....

BTW what kind of clutch are you installing?

 

exedy satge 1

 

Man I wish i would've taken pics of my Throwout, completely destroyed...It even wore some of the fork down a little bit

 

Not quite destruction but enough to have to be towed home...



The tab didnt break off in the transmission but there was just a tiny bit connecting it to the rest of the bearing.

 

I know what thats like. The first fork twisted and the bearing exploded.

 

This is what drag racing does to cheap TOBs.

 

Well she's alive again!
Still have a winding soud with the clutch out. Probubly the input shaft bearing... Crap.

 

 

you mean when the clutch is engaged (pedal out)? compare the sound to this video i made when mine was shot. i wouldn't describe it as a "winding" sound though..

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7FR6aXKu4EI

 

It's not clunky sounding. more like a 'Shhhhhhhhh'.

 

Definitely the ISB....

Have fun. I've replace two ISB's and I've found it to be easier to crack the case while the bell housing is still bolted to the engine (as long as you don't loose any check *****!!) good luck!

 

[QUOTE=505max94se]Definitely the ISB....

Have fun. I've replace two ISB's and I've found it to be easier to crack the case while the bell housing is still bolted to the engine (as long as you don't loose any check *****!!) good luck! [/QUOT

Interesting, care to go into detail?

 

Cheap TOB's? I opted to utilize the one that came with the Spec III clutch I bought, it had a longer center shaft than the stock Nissan one I had bought before hand. I figured the longer center shaft on the throw out bearing would add to stability of the bearing and support along the input shaft during travel. Anyone have any issues out of Spec TOB's? I hate hearing stuff like this! Ignorance is bliss!!!!!

 

are you saying tear apart the transmission while it's still on the car? you've done this twice? got any pics?

 

I have a few pics but they kinda suck because the lighting in my garage wasn't very good and I wasn't too familiar with the camera.

This is when I did my tranny. It was a few days after I rebuilt the other one... (It took me a whole day because I cleaned the tranny casing inside and out)

 

Here's the one that a firend and I rebuilt while it was out of the car....It was my first time taking it apart....My friend did most of the work....He left out the the check ball pin (it sits in the 3rd-4th shift rod) when he put it back together. The car drove fine for about a week and then it got stuck in two gears at once (reverse and 2nd) while it was parked. I had to take it apart two other times (while it was on the car) to figure out what was wrong. I finally fixed it by making my own check ball pin and it works great now...

 

ouch, my back hurts just looking at those last 2. i tried to work on mine while it was on the floor but within a minute decided it was worth it to clean off the workbench looks like a somewhat of a pain without a lift (laying on the ground), but i guess it's easier than struggling to get all the engine to tranny bolts! especially with the rh axle installed which makes a few of them a lot trickier. good to see the final drive can sit in place vertically like that. nice shortcut and pics there..

 

Well if all you need is ***** to break it apart and a pink towel. I can do this.

Do the bearings need to be pressed?

 

If you replace all of the bearings in the transmission you will need to heat some of them up. I bought a whole kit for mine and did the whole thing at once, and i know what people are talking about when they mention the check *****, they can be a pain in the *** if your not careful. But for the most part it was not very difficult. It only take about an hour to pull the tranny anyways, putting it back in is not as quick but not too bad either.

 

you might want to bring the input shaft and new bearing to a machine shop and paying a small fee to have them remove the broken one and press on the new one if you don't have access to a press or proper bearing tools. i suggest buying the NSK brand bearing. it seems pretty strong, i've beat the hell out of my tranny and it's held up great over the past year. be sure to study the exploded diagram of the tranny so you know where everything is and should be.

 

Where can I get a rebuild kit and what do they run?

 

i'd be more concerned about what labor would cost you to have both shafts torn down and synchros replaced. without an arsenal of tools, it's not a diy job. if the only problem is a blown front bearing, i'd just replace that. plus new seals if you want them. the front bearing should only be about $25-30. plus some silicone sealant for when you put the case back together, you can get the job done for around $60 including cost of having a shop pull the old ring off and press the new bearing on considering all you have is basic hand tools.

 

Makes sense. It was recenetly rebuilt by a shop. Not a good one. But I think all I need is that bearing.

 

First of all you don't need to heat up any of the bearings to remove them. Second, I would only replace the front input shaft bearing, the others should be fine, just inspect them.

You can buy a 12 ton press at harbor freight for about $60-$80 and do the whole job yourself. You'll probably want some pick (hook) tools, some punches, some snap ring pliers, and you'll need some magnet tools. Just follow the FSM and don't be scared. BTW I'm only 20 yrs old and I didn't have any experience with this type of stuff either.

The last picture was very unorganized because it was the first time I took it apart. The next tranny job (on the gold car, Jeffy's old car) went much smoother and was much more organized. I even installed the input shaft, main shaft and the VLSD (differential) all by myself (while the bell housing was on the car). All of them have to fit perfectly because I didn't even remove th passenger side axle.

I don't remember the name of the website that selles the rebuild kits (I think it's like drivetrains.com or something like that). Send subs1000w a pm, he'll know the name of the website.

 

Yeah the pink towel is key...lmao.

It actually used to be white but it got greasy and I washed it with new/dirty shop towels (red). Then it became pink. lol

The main reason I used a towel is to keep the check ***** from rollin away.

 

I did this with a recently (2 yrs ago) broken back. It was a burst fracture... Working on cars period is a pita for me.

 

Here's a picture of me working on my car. If you could see the actual picture size, you'd notice the passenger side drive shaft is sitting in the empty casing.