OEM Throw out bearing. Deffective?
Originally Posted by Chris Gregg
Anyone have any issues out of Spec TOB's? I hate hearing stuff like this! Ignorance is bliss!!!!!
Originally Posted by 505max94se
The car drove fine for about a week and then it got stuck in two gears at once (reverse and 2nd) while it was parked. I had to take it apart two other times (while it was on the car) to figure out what was wrong. I finally fixed it by making my own check ball pin and it works great now...
Originally Posted by Maxpwer
I had the exact same problem after I rebuilt my trans. I used the exact same method to fix it and also havent had a problem since.
Originally Posted by Maxpwer
I would agree that the spec TOB is atleast as good as OEM, but I've only got 30k miles on mine so I wont say for sure. But, I will mention my car tends to see several 6000 RPM clutch dumps (with the 6 puck) a week, and so far so good. That cheap TOB bearing that I posted earlier lasted about 1500 miles.
Originally Posted by Jeff92se
My car lives! Sean, thanks for taking care of it. But I know you are abusing those brakes. 

How do you know I'm abusing the brakes?
[QUOTE=505max94se]First of all you don't need to heat up any of the bearings to remove them. Second, I would only replace the front input shaft bearing, the others should be fine, just inspect them.
It makes it much easier and if you heat up the bearings to remove them, they will slide right off this way, but if only the front is bad, then only replace that one unless you want to do the whole thing.
It makes it much easier and if you heat up the bearings to remove them, they will slide right off this way, but if only the front is bad, then only replace that one unless you want to do the whole thing.
Originally Posted by Jeff92se
Because they can take it. heh. How is the old girl?
She's doing great down here in NM. Everything still is just as nice (or maybe nicer)as when I bought the car. I just started using the yota filters and the lifter clack is MUCH better.
Originally Posted by Jeff583
First of all you don't need to heat up any of the bearings to remove them. Second, I would only replace the front input shaft bearing, the others should be fine, just inspect them.
It makes it much easier and if you heat up the bearings to remove them, they will slide right off this way, but if only the front is bad, then only replace that one unless you want to do the whole thing.
It makes it much easier and if you heat up the bearings to remove them, they will slide right off this way, but if only the front is bad, then only replace that one unless you want to do the whole thing.
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