dv3

im back with my problem max. 92' SE.......so heres a short story for ya ......it was runnig on 4 cylinders so i took it in to have the 2 injectors replaced ...of course the mechanic tells me to get all3 in the back done but only 1 was bad ....i said just do the 2 im broke......i get it back with a slight miss and i drive 3 miles down the road and it starts cutting out while im drivng actually jerking the car but then stops soon after and it still misses like that when ever it feels like it.....but atleast i have all 6 cylinders for now .....so i call the mech back and he says he told the other 2 where reading high continuuity ...which he did not say that or i would have fixed them also....so i wonder if the new ones are bad

so now the questions..........i know ive seen links to answer these but i cant find now ....please let me know if u have seen them....

how can i test the injectors ?....is there a way to test the back ones without pulling the plemun?


i also have tweaked the tps and idle speed ... but i did it the redneck way .....does anyone know the proper way?

sublunary

iTrader: (2)

there is a subharness for the rear injectors near the power steering fluid resevior and the power valve. i dont remember what the resistance is supposed to be though. its in the fsm. if you don't have one, get it. it has been very good to me

dv3

could my maf be causing these symptoms?.........it misses really bad while cold ...sometimes it even stalls ...warm it up it runs great ??????

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

I'd thibk coolant temp sensor on yours

dv3

well you seem to be the man here brian ...can you tell me how to verify your theory

thks, d

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

pull the connector off the sensor and check for corrosion first.
I'm not aware of there being any test procedure other than tossing a new one in.
you may be able to check it by measuring it's resistance to ground at different temperatures. That is however just a guess

92 Max

The Autozone has a writeup on this. What I did to test the temp sensor was to put it in a pot of water, with a thermometer and a ohm meter hooked up to it, turned on the stove and noted the resistance as it hit each temperature.
There is also a writeup, elsewhere on this site on how to adjust the TPS.

http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBr...3d801f4eba.jsp

todamax

iTrader: (6)

The CTS is $17bucks at autozone, just get a new one if it really is suspect.

dv3

would the cts make the car miss so bad that it jerks the tach will start bouncing around between like 1500-2500 with my foot to the floor if i take my foot off the gas and let the rpm's drop less than a grand i can get it going again if it doesnt stall ...........to me a first this sounds like the injectors but what do i know .....i still welcome all suggestions ......does anyone know the procedure for testing the injectors like which wires and what the resitance should be?

dv3

........any thoughts?

Greeny

iTrader: (43)

Just replace the sensor,then report back...

sleepless

I just did the same exact job as you, replaced injectors. I did the job with a help of a buddy and I broke the second connector for the CTS, it's the one that routes to the dash temp-gauge, single metal connector. It's connected, poorly, but I don't have any mis-fire or hesitation, I'm not sure if that helps you out at all. If you want, I can check the OHM reading on mine at cold, and operating temps. BTW to me it sounds like a TPS issue, but since you've checked yours I dunno where to go from there.

BTW the new injectors had slightly higher OHM readings than stock ones, I think something like 3-5OHMs higher on average.

Cliff Clavin

iTrader: (11)

Since you have a VE, my first guess is going to be bad coil packs. It might even be just one, but possibly a couple. If you have a slight miss or rough idle, likely one is cracked, too.

The coil packs might even test OK, but under load, they will fail. This is a fairly common problem with VE engines. In my case, it was only one rear coil pack causing all of the problems. There was a HUGE thread about this a while back. If you guys would pay the $20 to search, you could find it.


Usually the coolant temp sensor will turn your fans on full time and mess with your idle speed and idle fluctuation.