Ok. Ive had this problem for a lil while now. Today was the day that it got to me.Alot of traffic on the highway was going like 30 mph and saw an opening.I gunned it and the MAX cuts to the right pretty scary for a minute. gotta pull the wheel to the left. Just the nose of the car. Not a fishtail. Only when i really step on it.

Now. i could be going 65 or better no shaking on the steering wheel no cutting to left or right.Nothing. Just had alignment couple of months ago. Wheels are balanced. Tie rods not that old. Ball joints not that old. I do know i have 2 different brands of struts.(Top screw had got stripped had a different 1 put in couldnt wait till morning) I do know i need the the rear sway bar bushing. both sides cracked.(the ones by the drum, on order for this week to install). What could it be? Tire pressure?

 

If it is only when you give er gas I would say Front axle bad.

 

Should there be some grinding or noise with the axle? Cause if im on a straight away and accellerate gradually till 55 or better i have no turning to the right.No problem whats so ever. Only when i floor it. Like the peddle to the medal.

 

Control arm bushing.....my 91 SE does the same exact thing.

 

My control arm bushings were completely shot and the only thing it did was make a loud clunk everytime I hit a bump. The steering was fine. I had a tie rod end go bad once and the steering did that..I still say it is an axle but
I guess in could be one of the control arm bushings..

 

I had the bushing done about a year ago. Both sides.But with all the pot holes and bumps in NYC you never know.It is my daily driver 50 to 60 miles a day. That'll do it to you.

 

Could be part control arm bushing, but think about it...you are driving a FWD car. Torque steer is a naturally occurring thing with this setup. As for the shaking, get your tires balanced...also could have a bent rim.

 

he said his wheels are already balanced so it can't be that. kinda sounds like torque steer

 

10 chars.

 

my car does it too; replaced "bad" shock and "bad" control arm. only difference is it doesnt make any noise...still wants to align on its own according to traction/torque. im guessing axle. didnt do this until i had my tranny replaced...

 

i have a similar pronblem but it makes like a clicking nose i replaced control arms with all bushing ball jkoint tie rod end axle and it still makes it im fuc*ing lost

 

Check your sway bar end link bushings and the links themselves..the links wear as thin as a pencil and start clunking..

Also..this will sound stupid but your door hinges will make a very similar sound when breaking and taking turns...oil them with motor oil.

 

I wonder could this be related to the gas pedal sometimes vibrating.

 

No..u may have a motor mount going bad but once again..my rear mount is shot and car steers straight

 

CV Axle...

 

In his quote he says he replaced axle

 

then the other axle.

 

1. for a control arm bushing to fail in a year is not unheard of especially in cases of a fluid leak
2. even if tires are perfectly balanced they can still shale due to internal tire damage that didn't change the weight.

 

In these New York City pothole filled streets anything is possible.
Will be changing my links. Start from there. Did my rear sway bar bushings this weekend. Rear feels better. Also sucks when you dont have a press.But sockets and a hammer did the job.

 

JRS89Max,

Do you know any shop in NYC will replace Lower Control Arm bushing. So far every single one I went to don't want to do it.

 

Dude just buy the whole control arm (which also comes with balljoints) from brian (internetautomart) it'll be WAY cheaper to buy the whole thing and its way faster to do than change the bushings.

Sears and Car X wanted to charge me nearly 800 bucks to do both sides. I did it myself with a repair manual and saved lots of money leaving me with enough money to replace both swaybar links and tie rods and get an alignment

 

and you still had a few hundred left over

 

Coumbianmax is right. But its some shops in Long Island City along 21st that do anything.If you have a manual look at it. Youll end up doing it yourself.

 

The other reason to do it yourself is so you can install polyurethane bushings, which will give you much improved performance.

 

When you accelerate, do you feel any movement of the shift lever? When you accelerate hard, do you hear a clunk from the engine compartment when you let up on the gas? This could be broken motor mount.
Also, jack up the front and see if both front wheels move freely when you have it in neutral. It could possibly be a dragging brake.

 

If you do that and are still unsure if you have a bad mount. Get a helper, open the hood. Put it in reverse and drive back a couple feet, then forward. If your helper says something like "Holy ****!" and sees the engine rock alot, then you Know it's a mount.

Although, I never had my wheel pull with bad mounts. Sounds like an alignment issue.

 

You guys do know this thread is from September 2006 right?

 

Damn it....

 

I would suggest you do it yourself and save money. its what I did

Did I mention my story with sears and carx wanting $800+ for this job?

 

lol.

I have the same problem. The P side axle is bad, both LCAs I believe are as well. I got some poly bushings on order so soon Im going to burn out the stock ones and press in some nice new bushings. Toss in the new axle with some GOOD tranny fluid then............proft?

~Alex

 

Profit is good...

 

I thought manuals took gear lube and not tranny fluid...

 

There isn't much difference. Right now I have gear lube in there, and I'm going to switch to GM syncromesh tranny fluid in a few weeks.

~Alex