Steering cuts to the right.
#1
Steering cuts to the right.
Ok. Ive had this problem for a lil while now. Today was the day that it got to me.Alot of traffic on the highway was going like 30 mph and saw an opening.I gunned it and the MAX cuts to the right pretty scary for a minute. gotta pull the wheel to the left. Just the nose of the car. Not a fishtail. Only when i really step on it.
Now. i could be going 65 or better no shaking on the steering wheel no cutting to left or right.Nothing. Just had alignment couple of months ago. Wheels are balanced. Tie rods not that old. Ball joints not that old. I do know i have 2 different brands of struts.(Top screw had got stripped had a different 1 put in couldnt wait till morning) I do know i need the the rear sway bar bushing. both sides cracked.(the ones by the drum, on order for this week to install). What could it be? Tire pressure?
Now. i could be going 65 or better no shaking on the steering wheel no cutting to left or right.Nothing. Just had alignment couple of months ago. Wheels are balanced. Tie rods not that old. Ball joints not that old. I do know i have 2 different brands of struts.(Top screw had got stripped had a different 1 put in couldnt wait till morning) I do know i need the the rear sway bar bushing. both sides cracked.(the ones by the drum, on order for this week to install). What could it be? Tire pressure?
#3
Should there be some grinding or noise with the axle? Cause if im on a straight away and accellerate gradually till 55 or better i have no turning to the right.No problem whats so ever. Only when i floor it. Like the peddle to the medal.
#5
Originally Posted by 91WBSE
Control arm bushing.....my 91 SE does the same exact thing.
I guess in could be one of the control arm bushings..
#7
Could be part control arm bushing, but think about it...you are driving a FWD car. Torque steer is a naturally occurring thing with this setup. As for the shaking, get your tires balanced...also could have a bent rim.
#10
my car does it too; replaced "bad" shock and "bad" control arm. only difference is it doesnt make any noise...still wants to align on its own according to traction/torque. im guessing axle. didnt do this until i had my tranny replaced...
#12
Originally Posted by Maxima91se
i have a similar pronblem but it makes like a clicking nose i replaced control arms with all bushing ball jkoint tie rod end axle and it still makes it im fuc*ing lost
Also..this will sound stupid but your door hinges will make a very similar sound when breaking and taking turns...oil them with motor oil.
#15
Originally Posted by Maxima91se
i have a similar pronblem but it makes like a clicking nose i replaced control arms with all bushing ball jkoint tie rod end axle and it still makes it im fuc*ing lost
#18
1. for a control arm bushing to fail in a year is not unheard of especially in cases of a fluid leak
2. even if tires are perfectly balanced they can still shale due to internal tire damage that didn't change the weight.
2. even if tires are perfectly balanced they can still shale due to internal tire damage that didn't change the weight.
#19
Originally Posted by internetautomar
1. for a control arm bushing to fail in a year is not unheard of especially in cases of a fluid leak
2. even if tires are perfectly balanced they can still shale due to internal tire damage that didn't change the weight.
2. even if tires are perfectly balanced they can still shale due to internal tire damage that didn't change the weight.
Will be changing my links. Start from there. Did my rear sway bar bushings this weekend. Rear feels better. Also sucks when you dont have a press.But sockets and a hammer did the job.
#20
Originally Posted by JRS89MAX
In these New York City pothole filled streets anything is possible.
Will be changing my links. Start from there. Did my rear sway bar bushings this weekend. Rear feels better. Also sucks when you dont have a press.But sockets and a hammer did the job.
Will be changing my links. Start from there. Did my rear sway bar bushings this weekend. Rear feels better. Also sucks when you dont have a press.But sockets and a hammer did the job.
JRS89Max,
Do you know any shop in NYC will replace Lower Control Arm bushing. So far every single one I went to don't want to do it.
#21
Originally Posted by aspirin240
JRS89Max,
Do you know any shop in NYC will replace Lower Control Arm bushing. So far every single one I went to don't want to do it.
Do you know any shop in NYC will replace Lower Control Arm bushing. So far every single one I went to don't want to do it.
Dude just buy the whole control arm (which also comes with balljoints) from brian (internetautomart) it'll be WAY cheaper to buy the whole thing and its way faster to do than change the bushings.
Sears and Car X wanted to charge me nearly 800 bucks to do both sides. I did it myself with a repair manual and saved lots of money leaving me with enough money to replace both swaybar links and tie rods and get an alignment
#22
Originally Posted by ColombianMax
Dude just buy the whole control arm (which also comes with balljoints) from brian (internetautomart) it'll be WAY cheaper to buy the whole thing and its way faster to do than change the bushings.
Sears and Car X wanted to charge me nearly 800 bucks to do both sides. I did it myself with a repair manual and saved lots of money leaving me with enough money to replace both swaybar links and tie rods and get an alignment
Sears and Car X wanted to charge me nearly 800 bucks to do both sides. I did it myself with a repair manual and saved lots of money leaving me with enough money to replace both swaybar links and tie rods and get an alignment
#25
When you accelerate, do you feel any movement of the shift lever? When you accelerate hard, do you hear a clunk from the engine compartment when you let up on the gas? This could be broken motor mount.
Also, jack up the front and see if both front wheels move freely when you have it in neutral. It could possibly be a dragging brake.
Also, jack up the front and see if both front wheels move freely when you have it in neutral. It could possibly be a dragging brake.
#26
Originally Posted by 92 Max
When you accelerate, do you feel any movement of the shift lever? When you accelerate hard, do you hear a clunk from the engine compartment when you let up on the gas? This could be broken motor mount.
Also, jack up the front and see if both front wheels move freely when you have it in neutral. It could possibly be a dragging brake.
Also, jack up the front and see if both front wheels move freely when you have it in neutral. It could possibly be a dragging brake.
If you do that and are still unsure if you have a bad mount. Get a helper, open the hood. Put it in reverse and drive back a couple feet, then forward. If your helper says something like "Holy ****!" and sees the engine rock alot, then you Know it's a mount.
Although, I never had my wheel pull with bad mounts. Sounds like an alignment issue.
#30
Guest
Posts: n/a
lol.
I have the same problem. The P side axle is bad, both LCAs I believe are as well. I got some poly bushings on order so soon Im going to burn out the stock ones and press in some nice new bushings. Toss in the new axle with some GOOD tranny fluid then............proft?
~Alex
I have the same problem. The P side axle is bad, both LCAs I believe are as well. I got some poly bushings on order so soon Im going to burn out the stock ones and press in some nice new bushings. Toss in the new axle with some GOOD tranny fluid then............proft?
~Alex
#31
Originally Posted by Alex_V
lol.
I have the same problem. The P side axle is bad, both LCAs I believe are as well. I got some poly bushings on order so soon Im going to burn out the stock ones and press in some nice new bushings. Toss in the new axle with some GOOD tranny fluid then............proft?
~Alex
I have the same problem. The P side axle is bad, both LCAs I believe are as well. I got some poly bushings on order so soon Im going to burn out the stock ones and press in some nice new bushings. Toss in the new axle with some GOOD tranny fluid then............proft?
~Alex
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