Ok guy's in my last thread about my wife 92 stalling when the motor is cold, and was directed to the IACV, so I pulled and clead the IACV and all seems well so far.

Any way this just started yesterday & today the car is hard to start in the morning, and she sit in the garage all nite. It take about 4-5 time to get her to start and when she does it sounds like she is flooded? Once the car is up and running she will start fine the rest of the day even after sitting all at work.

Got a brand new bat, and while trying to figure out the stalling issue I had the Alt load test and all was good.

Any ideas

Thanks
Rich

 

Maybe the iacv is just bad,cleaning will not fix a part that has failed...

Have you tried pulling any codes from the ecu?

 

No I have not pulled any codes. I don't have a code reader for the Max. I have one for my Diesel. Do you think the IACV would mes with the starting? once I cleaned & replaced the IACV it seemed to clear up the stalling she had.

 

i'm thinking the coolant temp sensor. it's a 2 wire plug...the single wire one goes to your dash gauge.

 

You do not need a code reader for these cars,they have a self diagnostic function built into them...

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=311138

^^^^^^^^
Code info

Location of ecu..


Behind this panel on the passenger side

 

Do a residual fuel pressure test.
your fuel system may be losing pressure over night

 

How about some of the basic maintenance stuff? When was the last time the spark plugs were changed? Distributor cap & rotor?

 

It sounds like something with the IACV. Did you reattach the two plugs? Is there a crack in your air hoses to the IACV?
Also, could be fuel leakdown from bad injectors or seals. Pull the plugs after the car's sat all nite and check to see if any are wet with fuel. If so there's the leak.

 

i thought the pump primes the system when it goes to the "ON" position for cold start?

 

it does, but if the pump is worn, or the lines have a pinhole leak the pressure is brought up fully.
some pressure is supposed to be in the line at all times.
He may be able to just turn the car to the on position (not starting it) and wait for the pump to stop and then try to start it. It should start then unless something is really releasing pressure.

 

Thanks guy's I check the codes later today. When I did the IACV I checked all the connection & hoses for cracks & damage, and all look good, but I'll double check. I did a tune up 6 month ago.

I'll also check the fuel pressue. I'm gussing you check the pressue on the line comming out of the fuel filter? or is there a fuel pressue test port.

 

pinhole leak? that sucker would be squirting like a busted artery all day long...no?

 

No Port that I know of. Just "T" into the fuel line after the filter the static test won't be interfered with by the filter, only flow tests.
The leak could be to the inside of th engine, hence looking for leaks in the cylinders or intake manifold. This also causes flooding, and hard starting.

 

-Is this a VE or VG?
-have the fuel injectors ever been worked on?
-how many miles is on it?
-if its a VE, have you checked the ignition coils for cracks?

 

I have no idea if it's a VE or VG I do know it's a 6 cylinder DOHC, and the motor sits inside her side ways LOL. This is my first go around with an front wheel drive import. She has around 95K trouble free miles. I guess thats why I don't know VE form VG, all I have had to do is regular maintence. Oil ,flushes etc. still got all the orginal parts, starter, alt, fuel pump, etc.

The only thing that has pooped up about 10k ago is a sound I thought was a lifter sticking, but the mechanic said it was on the cam and very similar to a lifter just a noise maker and no harm to the engine will come.

When I did changed the plugs the spark coils looked great no cracks/wear same with the wires. My wife just drives her to work and as a grocery getter, so she has a soft 95k.

Man I think working on my diesel is much more simple that her car, but the learning is fun.


P.S. Also when pulling codes from the ECU will it give multiple codes, or just one code fix the problem, and then pull the codes again. My code reader for my truck will pull and give all codes at once, but this blinking light thing is different.

 

Good info! I had no clue they had their own self diagnostic thingy... I know what I'll be doing later

 

think like a rubber line weeping gas or just a loose fitting.

 

You have a VE
the noise you are referring to is VTC tick, nothing unusual.

the blinking light will flash the codes in sequence. i.E. 33, 42, 15,52 etc..

 

I suggest you remove the coils and carefully inspect them for carbon traces (black lines), and fine cracks. Your at the mileage point where you will have failed coils and leaking injectors. If you plan to keep the car for a long time, then I would suggest replacing all six coils and injectors, using new o-rings on the injectors. You can also check the resistance of the injectors to see if they are in spec. (11-14 ohms), but they typically leak on the lower o-ring into the cylinder.

 

Ok guy's the car pulled code 55 which states all is good. I checked the fuel pressure and it's comming in around 35psi @ idle, also checked the spark coils under my lighted magnifying glass, and no cracks, soot etc they look great.

Any other ideas I should check? Also I noticed in a lot of threads including this one a lot of folks point to the coolant sensor if the sensoer was bad shouldn't pulled up when I ran the codes?

Thanks
Rich

 

I'd pull the plugs if I were you and see if you notice any fouling. If they are carbon-fouling (puffy dry black residue) you'll know it is running rich. You want to return that screw on the ECM back to its original position when you are done pulling the codes.

 

I'm going to pull the plugs tomorrow after she has sat all nite to also see if there is any fuel in there.

I can't find the fuse POG in the manual. I'm looking for the fuse to the atena motor, the motor has a spun gear and no longer goes up & down, so I'm thinking just pulling the fuse.v I checked the fuse box inside the car and there is no mention of the atena fuse is it under the hood.

 

Do you mean antenna motor? The map for fuses is inside the door of the fuse box.

 

Man I need to check my spelling. Yep the antenna motor. I pulled the fuse cover on the driver side just above the hood release and the map does not show a fuse for the antenna thats what got me thinking is might be one of the fuses under the hood.

 

There is not a fuse for the antenna motor,just get in there and unplug the wire harness..