Two weeks after my MC was replaced with a new aftermarket unit, the pedal goes down to the floor again. It was good for a week and I was in paradise, now I am back to ground zero.

Can anyone give me an authoritative answer: should it be humanely possible to press the pedal to the floor with the engine running and all brake system components working the way they are supposed to?

 

No,you should not be able to floor the brake pedal,unless there is air in the lines/leakage from m/c,wheel cylinders,or brake lines..

I have seen many people on here have problems with aftermarket master cylinders,but this may not be your issue..

You might try a pressure/vacuum bleeder...Like this one


Can be found here----> http://www.phxsyss.com/v12.htm

Or you could get one like this model at most local parts stores...

 

be sure that the company is giving you a new mc with a new reservoir. i kept putting on remans and they did nothing. also do like MyGreenMax94 said and check those rear wheel cylinders if you have rear drums both of mine were leaking.

 

I looked over the MC that they put in after they assured me several times it was new. They themselved did not recommend the reman and gave me two options - new or used Nissan. I rejected the used option and the one that they bought looked absolutely new, shiny with the holes plugged and absolutely clean new reservoir. However I cannot be 100% sure it was not some dirty trick by the manufacturer... The first few days the pedal was firm like a rock, then gradually returned almost to the level of softness that my original 13 YO Nissan MC had - i.e. to the floor and no amount of pumping helps to make it firmer.

 

are you losing any brake fluid?

 

They as in a shop?

If so,take the car back to them and make them fix this issue,"they" obviously did not do something right...

 

Not sure about the fluid loss, gotta check that.
Yes, it's the shop who put the new MC in. Going there tomorrow to 'raise hell'.

 

Same problem here with the g/fs car..Hey greeny how much does that v12 injector vacuum pressure bleeder thing cost?

 

Not loosing any fluid at all. The pedal is getting softer with every mile.
The mushy brake pedal seems to be a common thing on Maximas, as I went down to a dealership and test drove a 98 SE, where there was no free movement of the pedal, unlike on mine, but I could still press it down to the floor.
The mechanics at the shop drove the car, pumped like crazy and told me that my brakes were fine. Yeah, right. The manager is going to order a replacement from the same supplier, and if that fails too, he'll order from Nissan. Sounds odd to me... I thought that the failed brake components get thrown at the supplier's face for a full refund, but that's just me.

 

if its going to the floor it's leaking somewhere in the mc or they're doing a poor job of bleeding. good idea to take it back and replace the mc also ask them if they've adjusted the brake booster. (try to jump straight to the oem mc)

 

heres another thing that could be contributing to the problem. I doubt that it would be enought to do what you are describing, but check the rubber lines running from the metal ones to the caliper/drum under pressure. if they are worn they will bulge alot. causing a loss of pressure in the system.

 

same prob, got a reman'd MC worked fine then i saw my drivers side cali is leaking and i lost all my fluid when i took it off so im sure i got a assload of air in it now being fluidless.. (car is parked not driving it guys)

 

same prob, got a reman'd MC worked fine then i saw my drivers side cali is leaking and i lost all my fluid when i took it off so im sure i got a assload of air in it now being fluidless.. (car is parked not driving it guys)

btw the pedals have always gone to the floor since i got the car and started ****ing with it so i could sell it to a friend it brakes though

 

same prob, got a reman'd MC worked fine then i saw my drivers side cali is leaking and i lost all my fluid when i took it off so im sure i got a assload of air in it now being fluidless.. (car is parked not driving it guys)

btw the pedals have always gone to the floor since i got the car and started ****ing with it so i could sell it to a friend it brakes though

 

I have a good used caliper for sale if you want it..

 

Well i rebuilt the drivers side it was all smooth no rust inside and i think its still leaking but i didnt dip the seals in brake fluid like ur suppose to then the passenger caliper is stuck god these cars brakes ****ing suck

 

Maybe it's just a 12-15 yr. old car with a brake system that has been severely neglected over the years...

 

previous owner had it for 50k had the car regular maintained hell its got new pads on it atm

 

Did you actually witness all the years of maintinance,or did he/she just tell you this?

 

he told me, i got the car for $300 mind ya i dunno why someonewould lie about that, has new KYB G2 struts, new tires, new rad/power steering hoses and the AC was just charged so I believe him that it was maintained he also bought a 2006 maxima so i assume he likes them but u never know

 

You would be surprised what people will say to make a sale,even a $300 car sale...

But meh,it is an old car,so just get her fixed and sell it..

 

Meh, maybe he used cheap parts...

 

what's problem when I driving and brake warning light go on? After short time this light go off. After that I noticed the light go off when I turn steering wheel to left. I want to mention that I replace brake pads last year. I have maxima SE 1992 year. Sorry for my bad English

 

Check the fluid level in your brake master cylinder,it is probably low on fluid..

Then look around for a leak somewhere...

 

How hard is it to install the SS brake lines? How are the rubber lines attached to the steel piping? And how much do the SS lines ring me? I saw them for anything from 50 bucks to 150 bucks - what is the brand of choice on the org and how much should I spend tops?

 

i am also havingn brake trouble. i replaced my MC with an autozone part, didn't work so i went for the nissan. now it shoots out of the abs so i tried patching it up with some compound, still shoots out and now the brakes are spongy and kinda fade.

 

You need a new abs unit..They are not serviceable..

Or a good used one if you can find one...

 

is it possible to remove the abs and bypass it somehow? and a question on bleeding: does it matter what order you do it in. if show where should i start/finish?

 

Bypassing would be extremely difficult....


Abs bleeding order as follows..

1.Left rear caliper

2.Right front caliper

3.Right rear caliper

4.Left front caliper

 

In theory, a car with ABS is only different in:
1. MC
2. steel lines.
3. Calipers.
Replace all three and you've got a car with no ABS.

On a sidenote: Nissan does not sell the bleeder valve caps as a spare part. If you lost them (like your humble servant), you can go to another dealer, like Mazda - 75 cents Canadian each. I chose Mazda as they are next door at work

 

The calipers don't change

 

ooo major pwnag3

 

Reseraching the SS brake lines, I noticed that the very end of the steel lines, just where the rubber lines attach, is rusted at least on the front side. Is that dangerous? I am hesitant now to order the SS lines, as I am afraid that an attempt to install them might result in the pipes snapping. What if they do snap? Should I go to the dealer for the steel lines, or the generic lines would work?