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vibrations while in Drive / Accelerating

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Old Jan 16, 2007 | 08:10 PM
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vibrations while in Drive / Accelerating

1992 Max VE
Hey, I came across a few issues over the last week. Here is the whole story and maybe someone cam point me in the right direction.
Last week I had an extreme gas leak, it was a hose and the mechanic fixed it.
Everything before that day ran fine, once I recieved it back, it was shaking while driving, horrible gas consumption, and I could barely start the car. I brought it back to make sure he put a correct diameter hose or maybe he cut it shorter. He told me he put a brand new one in.
A another day of having issues, I tell him to take a look at it again.
He tells me I need a new Fuel injector, plugs, and an oil change cause the gas got into the oil. He said the reason I couldnt start was cause my Fuel injector was shot.
Now, I had 5 out of the 6 replaced, the 3 rear ones by this mechanic (charged me only $540 cash) , and I replaced the other 2 front ones when it was warmer out. Now the last one finally replaced.
So now, all 6 are replaced, new plugs and oil change.

Here is the issue I have now:
When my car is in park I have a rough idle and when I drive my car now there is a big vibration feel to the whole car while accelerating. I can feel it more when I am not moving and even more when I accelerate, the MPH does not matter either, it just does it at any speed. If anyone has any ideas that would be great.
Also , sometimes when I accelerate (this part has been going on for other 1-2 months now) nothing happens and the rpms just go up and down if I leave my foot on the gas, if I then take it off, and let the rmp go to a lower RPM I can accelerate again. If I do leave my foot on the gas while this is happening my car will drop till it stalls.

Thanks in advance guys.
Old Jan 17, 2007 | 04:59 AM
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I bet your mechanic didn't seat the o'rings in one or two of the injectors correctly,pinching one of the o'ring seals will cause fuel to leak past the injector,causing flooding in one of the cylinders..
Old Jan 17, 2007 | 05:27 AM
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thanks

Do you think that this can be the cause of the vibration happening?
Old Jan 17, 2007 | 06:46 AM
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actually I'm going to guess that used/reman injectors were used and they failed already.

Does the car run better once it has warmed up?
Old Jan 17, 2007 | 09:04 AM
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Car runs the same no matter what I do right now. I just got the 5 new injectors a month ago.
I did smell a burning smell in my exhaust this AM. I do not know if this is caused because of this issue.
Old Jan 17, 2007 | 09:25 AM
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If the car ran correctly when you brought it in, except for the gas leak, it sounds like they screwed something up. Take a look around the area where they replaced the fuel line. Did they remove or disconnect anything? Did they break something removing the hose? It's extremely difficult to remove those hoses, especially when they've been on a while. Also, did the gas leak on some vacuum hose and crack it or cause it to loosen and fall off. A vacuum leak could cause this problem.
As for the transmission slippage, check the fluid level in the tranny; it could be low.
Old Jan 17, 2007 | 11:41 AM
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could be your struts or wheel hub bearings
Old Jan 17, 2007 | 07:02 PM
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1. Did he replace the plenum gasket with a new one?
2. Have you checked the ignition coils?

Poorly seated injectors or unoiled seals will do one of two things: spray fuel up from the engine (I had this happen), leak fuel into the cylinder (is it running rich?).

I am leaning towards bad coils, unplug them one at a time and see if the engine runs same/worse.
Old Jan 17, 2007 | 10:21 PM
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I have to find out about the gasket

I already changes all of my ignition coils.


I have very bad gas milage right now. I am trying to figure it out as I go along. I will bring it back to them tomm. am and basically tell them I am doing charge backs if this isnt resolved.
Old Jan 17, 2007 | 11:44 PM
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1. rough idle could be fixed by adjusting the mass air sensor. What does your RPM read when your car is idling after a full warm up? tell them to check all of your air ducts to see if all the clamps are tightened and no cracks, esp the big one that goes all the way to the air filter box. very common problem.

2. if you smell gas leaking in the muffler after you installed new injectors, it could because of new injectors. I'm having the same problem too. When I rebuilt mines, they ran leak test and along with many other things at the lab and they all passed. So, I'm pretty sure the injectors are fine. It's just that it's nozzle is now free of carbon craps so it might flow a little bit more than normal. Or it could've been bad o2 sensor. When I was in S. Carolina, I paid some idiot mech $80 to install cat and down pipe the idiot dropped and stepped onto my brand new Denso o2. Bastard!! It's even worst if you smell gas in the engine bay while the car is running. Make sure you sniff that place too cuz they often forgotten to tighten those fuel hose clamps.

Bottom line is if you don't smell gas leak in the engine bay area, then you're fine. I wouldn't worry too much about gas leak coming out of the muffler unless it's hurting your MPG real bad. And tell them to fix your rough idling problems.
Old Jan 18, 2007 | 03:23 AM
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Originally Posted by bvtran
1. rough idle could be fixed by adjusting the mass air sensor.
What?

Please tell us all how to "adjust" The maf?
Old Jan 18, 2007 | 12:00 PM
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thanks for all of your help. I have overcome most of the issues now
I went this am to the mechanic and he checked the connections of the plugs and apparently he didnt plug something in all the way in. I believe one of the injectors was a bit loose. No idea, but its working well now. He did say my gas milage issue may be caused by a bad O2 sensor. I will look into this and see how difficult it would be to replace a bad O2 sensor. This may also solve my RPM from jumping up and down. Ill post after I do this myself.
Old Jan 18, 2007 | 01:39 PM
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Originally Posted by MyGreenMax94
What?

Please tell us all how to "adjust" The maf?
argh, I don't think that's what it was called. I think you already knew what I'm talking about.... help me out here, it's that thingy sitting on top of the plenum with a tiny black plastic round cap.
Old Jan 18, 2007 | 01:45 PM
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Originally Posted by bvtran
argh, I don't think that's what it was called. I think you already knew what I'm talking about.... help me out here, it's that thingy sitting on top of the plenum with a tiny black plastic round cap.
The iacv adjustment screw?

Old Jan 18, 2007 | 02:09 PM
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Originally Posted by MyGreenMax94
The iacv adjustment screw?

yup yup thanks
Old Jan 23, 2007 | 06:22 PM
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Last Issue with my Max

Ok, I have 1 more issue and I think she will be good again

Everything prior was fixed and I thank everyone who posted up above to get this resolved.
Here is the issue I am having:
It is cold here in NY, so I think that is causing this more so to happen:

When I accelerate the car while driving, the RPM's go crazy up/down and while my foot is still on the gas this is happening, I can't accelerate, it is like the gas petal isn't doing anything. Only until I let go of the gas totally and let the RMP drop to 1500 can I accelerate again. This seems to be happening when i just start my car a lot. It starts going further and further apart when the car is warm. It feels like it is pulling back when this is happening then sudden jerks forward.

I still have to check my Tranny fliud to make sure everything is well.
Stupid question but when is the best time to check this? A few minutes after it is turned on?

thanks in advance.
Old Jan 23, 2007 | 06:27 PM
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Originally Posted by neverendingz
Ok, I have 1 more issue and I think she will be good again

Everything prior was fixed and I thank everyone who posted up above to get this resolved.
Here is the issue I am having:
It is cold here in NY, so I think that is causing this more so to happen:

When I accelerate the car while driving, the RPM's go crazy up/down and while my foot is still on the gas this is happening, I can't accelerate, it is like the gas petal isn't doing anything. Only until I let go of the gas totally and let the RMP drop to 1500 can I accelerate again. This seems to be happening when i just start my car a lot. It starts going further and further apart when the car is warm. It feels like it is pulling back when this is happening then sudden jerks forward.

I still have to check my Tranny fliud to make sure everything is well.
Stupid question but when is the best time to check this? A few minutes after it is turned on?

thanks in advance.

I'm not sure, but that sounds like a slipping tranny..

Do you mean the rpm needle climbs,but the car is not actually accelarating?
Old Jan 23, 2007 | 06:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Maximahappy22
also i think my mechanic cleaned the fuel mixer, that might also be your problem.
What is a "fuel mixer"?
Old Jan 23, 2007 | 07:00 PM
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I still have to check my Tranny fliud to make sure everything is well.
Stupid question but when is the best time to check this? A few minutes after it is turned on?

I second that question.

[I=newb]
Old Jan 23, 2007 | 07:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Gunther
I still have to check my Tranny fliud to make sure everything is well.
Stupid question but when is the best time to check this? A few minutes after it is turned on?

I second that question.

[I=newb]
You should check the fluid level after the car has been driven for about 15 minutes..
Old Jan 23, 2007 | 07:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Gunther
I still have to check my Tranny fliud to make sure everything is well.
Stupid question but when is the best time to check this? A few minutes after it is turned on?

I second that question.

[I=newb]

Check the trany fluid level with the engine running and the trans in P.
Old Jan 27, 2007 | 07:52 AM
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Hi,
I checked my tranny fluid and all is well.

MyGreenMax94

The RMP needle climbs then just drops and then goes up again w/o the car accelerating while my foot is on the gas. It seems like it is happening every time the car switches gears
Old Jan 27, 2007 | 09:26 AM
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Hmm, if it just revs up when holding the accelerator and driving and it kinda feels like its on neutral then I'm gonna have to say it sounds like a tranny problem.

btw, I dont see why you're mechanic is blaming the O2 sensor for bad gas mileage when HE forgot to plug an injector or didnt make sure it was plugged in right, running on 5 cyl is enough to get horrible MPG. Personally I would never go back if thats the type of job they do. A mechanic (at least a commerial/shop) SHOULD go over his work and make sure everything is done and done correctly. Thats why I never went back to shops unless its something you need machinery.
Old Jan 27, 2007 | 03:31 PM
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Originally Posted by neverendingz
Hi,
I checked my tranny fluid and all is well.

MyGreenMax94

The RMP needle climbs then just drops and then goes up again w/o the car accelerating while my foot is on the gas. It seems like it is happening every time the car switches gears
Sounds like the transmission is on it's way out..
Old Feb 6, 2007 | 10:28 AM
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please information

which range of RPM is idle for my maxima (1992 SE)?
Old Feb 6, 2007 | 10:34 AM
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Originally Posted by stevex
which range of RPM is idle for my maxima (1992 SE)?

750rpm +-50rpm/ manual transmission

790rpm +- 50rpm/ automatic transmission
Old Feb 6, 2007 | 11:18 AM
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My car idles high when its cold [1300] but after running for a few minutes it gets in the 750 or so range, but that's only when the cars in park/neutral. In drive it's more like 650, is that how its supposed to be?
Old Feb 6, 2007 | 12:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Gunther
My car idles high when its cold [1300] but after running for a few minutes it gets in the 750 or so range, but that's only when the cars in park/neutral. In drive it's more like 650, is that how its supposed to be?
Sounds about right...
Old Feb 6, 2007 | 05:16 PM
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Originally Posted by stevex
which range of RPM is idle for my maxima (1992 SE)?
Both my VE A/Ts idles were at 550-600 when warm.
Old Feb 6, 2007 | 05:28 PM
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Originally Posted by internetautomar
Both my VE A/Ts idles were at 550-600 when warm.
In drive or park?
Old Feb 6, 2007 | 05:32 PM
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Drive .....
Old Feb 6, 2007 | 05:33 PM
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actually I think in drive they were at 500. hmm... gotta do a search I posted it once before on here.
right now the VE is under a white blanket.
Old Feb 7, 2007 | 02:11 AM
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...and what when driving?

in my prospect is wrote: BHP (probably BEST HORSE POWER) is 160 at 5200rpm. the best TORQUE is 182 at 3200 rpm. my engine is VG30E, manual transm. SO, what range of RPM is the best when driving (2000-2500, 2300-2500, 2500-2800 or maybe 3200)?
Old Feb 7, 2007 | 07:22 AM
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Originally Posted by stevex
in my prospect is wrote: BHP (probably BEST HORSE POWER) is 160 at 5200rpm. the best TORQUE is 182 at 3200 rpm. my engine is VG30E, manual transm. SO, what range of RPM is the best when driving (2000-2500, 2300-2500, 2500-2800 or maybe 3200)?
BHP means "Brake horse power" This is the engines horsepower rating at the crank,not the wheels...

Your infomation under your screename says you have a "92 SE" You should have the DOHC ve engine,are you sure it's a 92?

91 maybe?
Old Feb 7, 2007 | 11:29 AM
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Originally Posted by MyGreenMax94
BHP means "Brake horse power" This is the engines horsepower rating at the crank,not the wheels...

Your infomation under your screename says you have a "92 SE" You should have the DOHC ve engine,are you sure it's a 92?

91 maybe?
look at his location though
Old Feb 7, 2007 | 11:32 AM
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Originally Posted by internetautomar
look at his location though

Yeah,i seen that too,just doing a little investigating..
Old Feb 7, 2007 | 12:18 PM
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Originally Posted by MyGreenMax94
BHP means "Brake horse power" This is the engines horsepower rating at the crank,not the wheels...

Your infomation under your screename says you have a "92 SE" You should have the DOHC ve engine,are you sure it's a 92?

91 maybe?
I buy this car from Germany. The eks owner give me the technical book where is wrote that the first licence is 03/1992??? Because of that I think the car is 92SE. Of course, the first licence date and production date are not the same but it's close (often). I haven't much experience about cars and engines. So, I ask about the best range of RPM, and you don't answer to me

About my location... Don't worry, we are happy nation)) Lastly, I am owner of nissan maxima and this is the most important for this site.

Thanks in advance for your (yours) answer(s).
Old Feb 7, 2007 | 12:33 PM
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Originally Posted by internetautomar
look at his location though
what do you want to say?
Old Feb 7, 2007 | 12:36 PM
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Originally Posted by stevex
I buy this car from Germany. The eks owner give me the technical book where is wrote that the first licence is 03/1992??? Because of that I think the car is 92SE. Of course, the first licence date and production date are not the same but it's close (often).
Can you show us some pictures of your car/engine?

This will help in identifying which engine you have...


Originally Posted by stevex
I haven't much experience about cars and engines. So, I ask about the best range of RPM, and you don't answer to me


I don't understand what you are asking?

Do you mean "whats the best gear to drive my car in?"
Old Feb 7, 2007 | 02:04 PM
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Originally Posted by MyGreenMax94
Can you show us some pictures of your car/engine?

This will help in identifying which engine you have...






I don't understand what you are asking?

Do you mean "whats the best gear to drive my car in?"
No, no. I want to know, for example, is better driving with 3rd gear and 2500rpm or with 4th gear and 2000rpm (when speed is the same). I hope you understand my question.
About pictures of car/engine... yes I will show you tomorow, when I picture it



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