Selling a maxma.
#1
Selling a maxma.
Just for reference for anyone trying to sell there car i got $2900 for mine
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=505571
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=505571
#6
Originally Posted by woodjo
Just for reference for anyone trying to sell there car i got $2900 for mine
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=505571
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=505571
Cliff, you will get yours sold, eventually. Like they say "patience is virtue".
GL
#7
Originally Posted by Brudda Bob
Congrats! Some of us are just luckier than others.
Cliff, you will get yours sold, eventually. Like they say "patience is virtue".
GL
Cliff, you will get yours sold, eventually. Like they say "patience is virtue".
GL
Maybe next time.
When the weather gets nicer, I might just start parting out mods and selling the car cheaper.
#8
Originally Posted by Cliff Clavin
The guy called me tonight and said he couldn't scrounge up enough money, although it sounds like he was truly interested in the car.
Maybe next time.
When the weather gets nicer, I might just start parting out mods and selling the car cheaper.
Maybe next time.
When the weather gets nicer, I might just start parting out mods and selling the car cheaper.
________
Lovely Wendie
Last edited by Pearl93VE; 04-18-2011 at 01:18 AM.
#10
Originally Posted by 94maxshima
Well... if you ever take a CROSS COUNTRY trip to Florida in it ........ hit me up. haha
as far as the post sale giddiness comment, i'm just a hater, although I think what i got for my black ve-5 was fair ($2200) considering certain flaws.. It did have a jdm with hardly any vtc tick though. But vtcs shouldn't be a selling point any way you look at it. it's like "hey these motors almost always end up making a loud and annoying clacking sound, but this one hasn't gotten to that point yet"
#11
Originally Posted by Hectic
If you pay for gas and return ticket home and i'll drive it to florida for you.. seriously.
as far as the post sale giddiness comment, i'm just a hater, although I think what i got for my black ve-5 was fair ($2200) considering certain flaws.. It did have a jdm with hardly any vtc tick though. But vtcs shouldn't be a selling point any way you look at it. it's like "hey these motors almost always end up making a loud and annoying clacking sound, but this one hasn't gotten to that point yet"
as far as the post sale giddiness comment, i'm just a hater, although I think what i got for my black ve-5 was fair ($2200) considering certain flaws.. It did have a jdm with hardly any vtc tick though. But vtcs shouldn't be a selling point any way you look at it. it's like "hey these motors almost always end up making a loud and annoying clacking sound, but this one hasn't gotten to that point yet"
________
TOYS FETISH
Last edited by Pearl93VE; 04-18-2011 at 01:18 AM.
#14
Originally Posted by 94maxshima
Hah, that's funny. For people who know about, or know of VE's, I'd imagine the VTC's would be a great selling factor!
Originally Posted by maxitech
No clacking VG FTW!
#16
I don't have a problem with the VG engines, they are damn good. I had one in my first Pathfinder and I loved it.
However, the next time someone with an NA VG engine hits 14s in the 1/4 mile will be the first time.
I much prefer the look on a decent Honda driver's face at the track when I beat them, which can't be done with a VG, unless you turbo it. How many people have done that, out of the hundreds that want to? A handful. Even fewer with a VE. I prefer to just use bolt ons and not deal with the headache.
I have beaten several modded and swapped Civics, a couple of Preludes (both styles), every Accord (except I barely beat an H22a swapped Accord), tied a stock 02-ish Sentra Spec V, and I have also been about even with a lightly modded Integra GSR.
Still, these cars aren't that fast, but about a full second faster in the 1/4 mile than a VG. That's part of the reason I am selling mine -- because I want something a little faster, or with the potential to be faster without a custom made, difficult to tune turbo kit.
When a lot of you guys actually take your cars to a track, you will see the difference in what I am talking about. The difference between high 14s and high 15s is pretty substantial.
Once you get below that, you are seriously racing. Cars like STis, EVOs, SR20DET cars (both rear and fwd), modded Talons, etc. generally go from the low 12s to mid 14s. Cars below that are practically insane.
As for the VTC clacking, it really isn't that big of a deal to me, anymore. My old engine clacked most of the time and this one does occasionally. We all know it rarely proves fatal to the engine, it's just annoying. It can be fixed if you want to put the work into it.
However, the next time someone with an NA VG engine hits 14s in the 1/4 mile will be the first time.
I much prefer the look on a decent Honda driver's face at the track when I beat them, which can't be done with a VG, unless you turbo it. How many people have done that, out of the hundreds that want to? A handful. Even fewer with a VE. I prefer to just use bolt ons and not deal with the headache.
I have beaten several modded and swapped Civics, a couple of Preludes (both styles), every Accord (except I barely beat an H22a swapped Accord), tied a stock 02-ish Sentra Spec V, and I have also been about even with a lightly modded Integra GSR.
Still, these cars aren't that fast, but about a full second faster in the 1/4 mile than a VG. That's part of the reason I am selling mine -- because I want something a little faster, or with the potential to be faster without a custom made, difficult to tune turbo kit.
When a lot of you guys actually take your cars to a track, you will see the difference in what I am talking about. The difference between high 14s and high 15s is pretty substantial.
Once you get below that, you are seriously racing. Cars like STis, EVOs, SR20DET cars (both rear and fwd), modded Talons, etc. generally go from the low 12s to mid 14s. Cars below that are practically insane.
As for the VTC clacking, it really isn't that big of a deal to me, anymore. My old engine clacked most of the time and this one does occasionally. We all know it rarely proves fatal to the engine, it's just annoying. It can be fixed if you want to put the work into it.
#18
Originally Posted by Cliff Clavin
I don't have a problem with the VG engines, they are damn good. I had one in my first Pathfinder and I loved it.
However, the next time someone with an NA VG engine hits 14s in the 1/4 mile will be the first time.
I much prefer the look on a decent Honda driver's face at the track when I beat them, which can't be done with a VG, unless you turbo it. How many people have done that, out of the hundreds that want to? A handful. Even fewer with a VE. I prefer to just use bolt ons and not deal with the headache.
I have beaten several modded and swapped Civics, a couple of Preludes (both styles), every Accord (except I barely beat an H22a swapped Accord), tied a stock 02-ish Sentra Spec V, and I have also been about even with a lightly modded Integra GSR.
Still, these cars aren't that fast, but about a full second faster in the 1/4 mile than a VG. That's part of the reason I am selling mine -- because I want something a little faster, or with the potential to be faster without a custom made, difficult to tune turbo kit.
When a lot of you guys actually take your cars to a track, you will see the difference in what I am talking about. The difference between high 14s and high 15s is pretty substantial.
Once you get below that, you are seriously racing. Cars like STis, EVOs, SR20DET cars (both rear and fwd), modded Talons, etc. generally go from the low 12s to mid 14s. Cars below that are practically insane.
As for the VTC clacking, it really isn't that big of a deal to me, anymore. My old engine clacked most of the time and this one does occasionally. We all know it rarely proves fatal to the engine, it's just annoying. It can be fixed if you want to put the work into it.
However, the next time someone with an NA VG engine hits 14s in the 1/4 mile will be the first time.
I much prefer the look on a decent Honda driver's face at the track when I beat them, which can't be done with a VG, unless you turbo it. How many people have done that, out of the hundreds that want to? A handful. Even fewer with a VE. I prefer to just use bolt ons and not deal with the headache.
I have beaten several modded and swapped Civics, a couple of Preludes (both styles), every Accord (except I barely beat an H22a swapped Accord), tied a stock 02-ish Sentra Spec V, and I have also been about even with a lightly modded Integra GSR.
Still, these cars aren't that fast, but about a full second faster in the 1/4 mile than a VG. That's part of the reason I am selling mine -- because I want something a little faster, or with the potential to be faster without a custom made, difficult to tune turbo kit.
When a lot of you guys actually take your cars to a track, you will see the difference in what I am talking about. The difference between high 14s and high 15s is pretty substantial.
Once you get below that, you are seriously racing. Cars like STis, EVOs, SR20DET cars (both rear and fwd), modded Talons, etc. generally go from the low 12s to mid 14s. Cars below that are practically insane.
As for the VTC clacking, it really isn't that big of a deal to me, anymore. My old engine clacked most of the time and this one does occasionally. We all know it rarely proves fatal to the engine, it's just annoying. It can be fixed if you want to put the work into it.
#19
Originally Posted by Hectic
The ve is fun but it comes at the price of reliablity and ride comfort. A vg is a more engaging experience imo. you really feel more in control of the car with the engine, you know what it's going to do, acceleration is steady and more predictable.
#20
Originally Posted by Hectic
With all due respect my man, I'm going to have to counter. Nobody has said anything about the VG being more powerful of an engine. It's obvious without dudes going to the track. My 80 year old grandma could look at the hp/tq ratings and tell you which engine will make the same car go faster. All anyone said is that the vg is a quiet, tight running engine. You're kind of acting like the only thing to take into consideration is power.. Personally I love these cars because of their quality and body/interior design, not so much power. The ve is fun but it comes at the price of reliablity and ride comfort. A vg is a more engaging experience imo. you really feel more in control of the car with the engine, you know what it's going to do, acceleration is steady and more predictable. It's a good trade off if you ask me. Plus you can always turbo the sucker if you want more power, and you still won't have to worry about vtcs and knock sensors.
Your arguments don't hold a lot of water, otherwise.
The interior design and ride comfort between a VG and a VE are the same.
The acceleration on my car is smooth and predictable, except where the VI hits and it's barely noticeable. Less so than a VTECH Honda. Limited slip transmissions are also more predictable in cornering and spirited driving. That's something none of the VGs have stock.
There is more torque at lower rpm in a VG, but not many people consider torque at low rpm an improvement in "driving experience." It might be a little easier in stop-and-go traffic and it's probably an improvement in everyday driving.
The noise difference is minimal. It's only really an issue when you are standing in front of the car with the hood up or maybe with the windows rolled down stopped at a light. When driving, normal conversation or moderate stereo levels more than drown out any VTC sound, even when the clacking is bad. Yes, it's annoying, but not at WOT or at the track.
You can also turbo a VE with good results. Like I said, even the VGs have only a handful of people that have done it, so it's kind of moot. Turboing either one is a custom project.
There really is no difference in reliability. OK, maybe the VG has a bit of an edge, if a T-belt has never broken. With both engines, I have seen very few instances of things like throwing rods, bad head gaskets, etc. If maintained properly, both a VG and VE are easily 200k-300k mile engines. Only a couple of people have had complete VTC failure. I talked with a few different Nissan Techs and this is extremely rare.
I think the VE has about the same maintenance as a VG overall. No distributor (wires, cap, etc), no timing belt to replace every 60k. There are several VEs on this board over 200k miles. Even with a bad KS, a VE is at least as strong as a VG. Mine was bad and it wasn't that big an issue. Coil packs can be problems, but usually well over 100k and often it's just one or two.
I have had two VE cars, with 3 engines. The total mileage between the 2 cars are over 300k with zero breakdowns and only a couple of bad coil packs. The water pump started to fail on the first engine and I replaced it (<$200). Didn't leave me stranded, but it was bailing some water.
I drove over 110k with my first one with no problems at all (total miles on the car were 160k when I traded it in). I bought the second (red) one from from brother who commuted over 50 miles everyday, so it has been in my family for a long time and I know the history. It has never had a reliability problem. The only reason I had the JDM engine put in was because of a mistake made while replacing the VTCs, which I opted to do. The old engine was running fine before I parted it out.
The only reason I am selling my car is I want something faster or has the potential to be faster without custom work. I don't have fabrication skills and I don't want to pay someone that does big $$. Otherwise, I am totally happy with my VE and I have been since I bought my first one over a decade ago.
#21
Originally Posted by Hollywood!
haha this is going to turn into a huge argument. im going to have to disagree with you. it was his opinion on the ve and vg. we all have different reasons for buying either one so you cant say ones better then the other based on how you drive it. different needs for different people. also, whats so different with the VE vs the VG besides engine. you can get a VEauto and there you go, luxury cruiser. both cars have basically the same anemities. and about the reliability.. cliff said theres a VERY slim chance of vtc's actually destroying your engine, and knock sensor isnt a huge deal either for the payoff. if you actually think youre "in control" of a slower, automatic car (no offence) youre mistaken, they call it automatic for a reason. not trying to start something, just giving some feedback.
Originally Posted by Cliff Clavin
For me, the only thing that matters is how a car drives when you push it. I can get any POS Buick, Taurus, Impala or Camry and have a predictable, easy to control ride under normal conditions.
Your arguments don't hold a lot of water, otherwise.
The interior design and ride comfort between a VG and a VE are the same.
The acceleration on my car is smooth and predictable, except where the VI hits and it's barely noticeable. Less so than a VTECH Honda. Limited slip transmissions are also more predictable in cornering and spirited driving. That's something none of the VGs have stock.
There is more torque at lower rpm in a VG, but not many people consider torque at low rpm an improvement in "driving experience." It might be a little easier in stop-and-go traffic and it's probably an improvement in everyday driving.
The noise difference is minimal. It's only really an issue when you are standing in front of the car with the hood up or maybe with the windows rolled down stopped at a light. When driving, normal conversation or moderate stereo levels more than drown out any VTC sound, even when the clacking is bad. Yes, it's annoying, but not at WOT or at the track.
You can also turbo a VE with good results. Like I said, even the VGs have only a handful of people that have done it, so it's kind of moot. Turboing either one is a custom project.
There really is no difference in reliability. OK, maybe the VG has a bit of an edge, if a T-belt has never broken. With both engines, I have seen very few instances of things like throwing rods, bad head gaskets, etc. If maintained properly, both a VG and VE are easily 200k-300k mile engines. Only a couple of people have had complete VTC failure. I talked with a few different Nissan Techs and this is extremely rare.
I think the VE has about the same maintenance as a VG overall. No distributor (wires, cap, etc), no timing belt to replace every 60k. There are several VEs on this board over 200k miles. Even with a bad KS, a VE is at least as strong as a VG. Mine was bad and it wasn't that big an issue. Coil packs can be problems, but usually well over 100k and often it's just one or two.
I have had two VE cars, with 3 engines. The total mileage between the 2 cars are over 300k with zero breakdowns and only a couple of bad coil packs. The water pump started to fail on the first engine and I replaced it (<$200). Didn't leave me stranded, but it was bailing some water.
I drove over 110k with my first one with no problems at all (total miles on the car were 160k when I traded it in). I bought the second (red) one from from brother who commuted over 50 miles everyday, so it has been in my family for a long time and I know the history. It has never had a reliability problem. The only reason I had the JDM engine put in was because of a mistake made while replacing the VTCs, which I opted to do. The old engine was running fine before I parted it out.
The only reason I am selling my car is I want something faster or has the potential to be faster without custom work. I don't have fabrication skills and I don't want to pay someone that does big $$. Otherwise, I am totally happy with my VE and I have been since I bought my first one over a decade ago.
Your arguments don't hold a lot of water, otherwise.
The interior design and ride comfort between a VG and a VE are the same.
The acceleration on my car is smooth and predictable, except where the VI hits and it's barely noticeable. Less so than a VTECH Honda. Limited slip transmissions are also more predictable in cornering and spirited driving. That's something none of the VGs have stock.
There is more torque at lower rpm in a VG, but not many people consider torque at low rpm an improvement in "driving experience." It might be a little easier in stop-and-go traffic and it's probably an improvement in everyday driving.
The noise difference is minimal. It's only really an issue when you are standing in front of the car with the hood up or maybe with the windows rolled down stopped at a light. When driving, normal conversation or moderate stereo levels more than drown out any VTC sound, even when the clacking is bad. Yes, it's annoying, but not at WOT or at the track.
You can also turbo a VE with good results. Like I said, even the VGs have only a handful of people that have done it, so it's kind of moot. Turboing either one is a custom project.
There really is no difference in reliability. OK, maybe the VG has a bit of an edge, if a T-belt has never broken. With both engines, I have seen very few instances of things like throwing rods, bad head gaskets, etc. If maintained properly, both a VG and VE are easily 200k-300k mile engines. Only a couple of people have had complete VTC failure. I talked with a few different Nissan Techs and this is extremely rare.
I think the VE has about the same maintenance as a VG overall. No distributor (wires, cap, etc), no timing belt to replace every 60k. There are several VEs on this board over 200k miles. Even with a bad KS, a VE is at least as strong as a VG. Mine was bad and it wasn't that big an issue. Coil packs can be problems, but usually well over 100k and often it's just one or two.
I have had two VE cars, with 3 engines. The total mileage between the 2 cars are over 300k with zero breakdowns and only a couple of bad coil packs. The water pump started to fail on the first engine and I replaced it (<$200). Didn't leave me stranded, but it was bailing some water.
I drove over 110k with my first one with no problems at all (total miles on the car were 160k when I traded it in). I bought the second (red) one from from brother who commuted over 50 miles everyday, so it has been in my family for a long time and I know the history. It has never had a reliability problem. The only reason I had the JDM engine put in was because of a mistake made while replacing the VTCs, which I opted to do. The old engine was running fine before I parted it out.
The only reason I am selling my car is I want something faster or has the potential to be faster without custom work. I don't have fabrication skills and I don't want to pay someone that does big $$. Otherwise, I am totally happy with my VE and I have been since I bought my first one over a decade ago.
anyway, i'm stoked i dumped the ve, made a good profit AND still have the car that i've invested my hard labor into maintaining opposed to keeping the ve and having to dump all the money i got into fixing it up to the point the vg is already at. ve's are fun, you really don't have to write these essays explaining the benifets. however the vg is has a better sound imo and you don't have any ks or vtc issues to worry about. that's basically all i said. the only thing really to worry about is having the crank snout bust off and that isn't something that affects a high percentage of them like the ks and vtcs (tick, not explode). It also shouldn't happen if you follow specs. I'm not bashing VEs, I just like the VG's reliability and straightforwardness. Fixed timing with standard belt, smooth and quiet engine, it's worth the high end loss imo.
peace
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