I have a CV boot on the outside, drivers side that's torn. I'm trying to decide whether to try to replace the boot on the axle, without removing it from the car, or just replace the whole axle on that side and the seal. Anyone with experience in this repair? What's the best way to do this and the fastest and easiest?

 

There are options only if there is no play in the CV joint itself. If there is, then replace the axle, if not, you can get those special boots that can replace the torn one. Notice though that that repair generally isn't as good as replacing the axle.

 

auto or manual? If its an auto has the fluid been changed ever? if it hasn't thats your trannys only shot at living, dont drain/get rid of it!

Id say repalce the boot if it isn't clunking yet. Or I can sell you a good condition shaft for $20. No torn boots.

~Alex

 

I replaced the same boot on my auto last weekend, but I caught it the same day it happened so I wasn't worried about the bearing yet. Yes, you can keep it on the trasmission and just use a big hammer to smack the joint off the end. How long has the boot been split for?

 

THis is the 5sp manual. The boot's been split for a while now. I'm trying to decide what's the easiest way to go.

 

IMO,you should just replace the axle....

 

Replace axle, fill with GM syncromesh tranny fluid. I put some in my 240sx, and thats whats getting put in the maxima next time it needs tranny fluid. Good stuffs.

~Alex

 

so i shouldnt change my auto trans fluid so it has a shot at living?
anything else everyone but you is wrong about???????????

 

The power valve can get acclimated to severely worn fluid, and fresh fluid can cause you to have serious slippage when shifting gears (if it shifts at all). However, in my original 275K mile GXE auto-tranny, I've found that fresh fluid along with a bottle of Lucas tranny fluid additive restores normal shifting and generally lasts about 35-40K miles. I know it's time to change the fluid when 1st->2nd gear shift starts to hesitate and shifts harder than normal.

 

I've also had the original axles that came with the car, having replaced the boots over and over as they tear. The local shop said "no clicking" and "no serious debris (dirt, sand, etc.) in the torn boot) generally means the axle can be salvaged.

Most shops want you to just replace the axle because labor wise, it's easier. However, the boot is cheap and even with labor, it's cheaper than a new/rebuilt axle.

 

Yeah my driver's side boot tore yesterday. The local shop also told me that as long as it's not clicking, it can be repaired. But just for my piece of mine, I'm going to have the entire axle replaced.

 

Well pretty much when any auto transmission (that hasn't had its fluid regularly changed) has its fluid changed it starts slipping, and dies pretty soon after wards. The reason is the clutch material is circulating in the fluid when it hasn't been changed in over 60K miles and thats what keeps it from slipping. New fluid with no material = slipping.

If I were you and the tranny hadn't had its fluid changed I would get a brand new fluid container and drain the tranny fluid into that, and later put it back into the transmission. Thats if your going to change the axle. Then top off as needed. Then I wouldn't think you'd have a problem. But if the fluid has been changed every 40-60K miles like its suppose to then you should be fine.

Thank god I never had to do that, I just swapped in a 5 speed.

~Alex

 

Do you have both side?

 

if that's the case why don't some fluid company make a fluid that has crap in it and market it to the public as non slip tranny fluid?

seriously...if what's holding your tranny is the crap in the fluid then your tranny is ready to gernade (sp) any minute and you're just on borrowed time. you think the valve body works better with crap and sludge in it? the solenoid doesn't work better with shifting when it's pushing through dirty and burnt ATF.

sure you can leave the fluid in there...but if you drain it out don't think about throwing it back in. if your tranny is not working after the fluid change (and the fluid is up to the right level) then your tranny was going to die very soon.