Engine probelms...
Engine probelms...
I have a 91 Maxima that I recently put in a new engine in. I got the engine with 50,000 miles on that was a import from japan. I got everything hook and check all the vaccum lines and stuff but i'm still having trouble starting it sometimes and when do I get it started I have no power to get up a hill. I'm contemplating on taking it to mechanic or actually selling the car as is. I want to know from you all on how much you think I might get from selling it or should I get a mechanic to trouble-shoot my probelm?
Quote:
Originally Posted by mtcookson
turn the screw clockwise and wait for the leds to flash 3 times then turn it back counter clockwise. this is the diagnostics mode. from here the leds will flash individually indicating the code. the red led indicates the 10's and the green led indicates the 1's. i.e. if the red led flashes 2 times and the green led flashes 3 that would be code 23.
Sounds like you do it a little different than I do. Turn the key to the "ON" position. Then turn the little screw on the ECU clockwise, wait for 2 seconds, then turn it back counter clockwise . Then the red light will flash in 2 sequences. Slow flashes indicate the first digit of the number, Fast flashes will indicate the 2nd digit of the number. Say it goes "flash....flash....flash...........flash.flash.fla sh....." That would be a code 33 which is o2 senor. If there are no codes in the ECU it would read 55. Turn the screw counter clockwise, hold it then turn it back to the original position.
There you go.
Originally Posted by mtcookson
turn the screw clockwise and wait for the leds to flash 3 times then turn it back counter clockwise. this is the diagnostics mode. from here the leds will flash individually indicating the code. the red led indicates the 10's and the green led indicates the 1's. i.e. if the red led flashes 2 times and the green led flashes 3 that would be code 23.
Sounds like you do it a little different than I do. Turn the key to the "ON" position. Then turn the little screw on the ECU clockwise, wait for 2 seconds, then turn it back counter clockwise . Then the red light will flash in 2 sequences. Slow flashes indicate the first digit of the number, Fast flashes will indicate the 2nd digit of the number. Say it goes "flash....flash....flash...........flash.flash.fla sh....." That would be a code 33 which is o2 senor. If there are no codes in the ECU it would read 55. Turn the screw counter clockwise, hold it then turn it back to the original position.
There you go.
It shouldn't be too hard to diagnose if you put enough time into solving the problem. First thing, post ALL the relevant info you have. We can help you rule out things from there.
Originally Posted by Jbr8k
Quote:
Originally Posted by mtcookson
turn the screw clockwise and wait for the leds to flash 3 times then turn it back counter clockwise. this is the diagnostics mode. from here the leds will flash individually indicating the code. the red led indicates the 10's and the green led indicates the 1's. i.e. if the red led flashes 2 times and the green led flashes 3 that would be code 23.
Sounds like you do it a little different than I do. Turn the key to the "ON" position. Then turn the little screw on the ECU clockwise, wait for 2 seconds, then turn it back counter clockwise . Then the red light will flash in 2 sequences. Slow flashes indicate the first digit of the number, Fast flashes will indicate the 2nd digit of the number. Say it goes "flash....flash....flash...........flash.flash.fla sh....." That would be a code 33 which is o2 senor. If there are no codes in the ECU it would read 55. Turn the screw counter clockwise, hold it then turn it back to the original position.
There you go.
Originally Posted by mtcookson
turn the screw clockwise and wait for the leds to flash 3 times then turn it back counter clockwise. this is the diagnostics mode. from here the leds will flash individually indicating the code. the red led indicates the 10's and the green led indicates the 1's. i.e. if the red led flashes 2 times and the green led flashes 3 that would be code 23.
Sounds like you do it a little different than I do. Turn the key to the "ON" position. Then turn the little screw on the ECU clockwise, wait for 2 seconds, then turn it back counter clockwise . Then the red light will flash in 2 sequences. Slow flashes indicate the first digit of the number, Fast flashes will indicate the 2nd digit of the number. Say it goes "flash....flash....flash...........flash.flash.fla sh....." That would be a code 33 which is o2 senor. If there are no codes in the ECU it would read 55. Turn the screw counter clockwise, hold it then turn it back to the original position.
There you go.
The way I described was for a 90 VG ecu but I know the VE ecu was a little different in the overall design so that could be it.
Originally Posted by DanNY
sounds like timing is really off or like Alex said it needs a tune up
I'm DanNY on the timing and with Alex on the tune up.
Here's a lil vid Alex and I made on timing that might help you. You may need it if you dont know how to adjust the timing so dont think I'm just assuming you dont know anything automatically.
Hope it helps!
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=508818
Originally Posted by DanNY
sounds like timing is really off or like Alex said it needs a tune up
I'm DanNY on the timing and with Alex on the tune up.
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=508818
Here's a lil vid Alex and I made on timing that might help you. You may need it if you dont know how to adjust the timing so dont think I'm just assuming you dont know anything automatically.
Hope it helps!
I'm not sure what the hype still is with JDM engines. My experience is that they are crap and beaten to death. I second opinions. They also suggest that you tighten heads and do compression checks before installing any used engine. I'd also check vacuum hoses as cold weather brings out the worst in our rubber hoses. This will make the car difficult to start and idle as well. These symptoms get me every winter and I know to start checking hoses, especially the tiny one that runs to the heater coc on the firewall.
You swapped over all sensors? I've been told that the JDM electronics are not compatable with US. Although I have not compared them, Nissan shop foreman told me this.
You swapped over all sensors? I've been told that the JDM electronics are not compatable with US. Although I have not compared them, Nissan shop foreman told me this.
WTF dude... everyone should know JDM engines make at least 100 hp more than US engines... 
For those that don't know, I'm just kidding. I think most people get them due to low mileage but, as you said, they tend to be in bad shape even with the low mileage. The JDM VG30ET I got wasn't the greatest. Ran good and everything but the coolant passages were dirty as hell. I've cleaned it out numerous times and my heater core still gets clogged. Yet another good reason for me to go back to my Maxima block.

For those that don't know, I'm just kidding. I think most people get them due to low mileage but, as you said, they tend to be in bad shape even with the low mileage. The JDM VG30ET I got wasn't the greatest. Ran good and everything but the coolant passages were dirty as hell. I've cleaned it out numerous times and my heater core still gets clogged. Yet another good reason for me to go back to my Maxima block.
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