Part II: Pics of camber plates>>>
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 2,134
From: West Palm Beach, FL
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 2,134
From: West Palm Beach, FL
No it's not a time deal
It's a no name brand, a local guy to me made them on a CNC machine. Getting them made is half the deal, the other is the praticality and we wont know until I get them installed.
VERY nice.
So it looks like you're going to remove the stock bearing plate and bushing, and the OEM bearing presses into the smaller aluminum piece that mounts to the top of the strut?
nice work. I'm definitely interested. I KNOW they'll work, as long as you have a good shop do the alignment. one thing to watch out for though is hood clearanace.. does the top plate mount on top of the strut tower inside the car, or below it? I assume you just stick it together with 3 bolts through that plate and the strut towers in the car...
back to the hood clearance thing.. you MIGHT need to machine some wider grooves for the nuts/bolts to slide through, not mount on top of... the problem is there just isn't much room between the top of the strut tower and the hood. I had some 4 awg wires running along there for my stereo, and it smashed them between the strut tower and the hood.
try mounting them up and see where you go. if they fit, I'm VERY interested and have the money anytime.
So it looks like you're going to remove the stock bearing plate and bushing, and the OEM bearing presses into the smaller aluminum piece that mounts to the top of the strut?
nice work. I'm definitely interested. I KNOW they'll work, as long as you have a good shop do the alignment. one thing to watch out for though is hood clearanace.. does the top plate mount on top of the strut tower inside the car, or below it? I assume you just stick it together with 3 bolts through that plate and the strut towers in the car...
back to the hood clearance thing.. you MIGHT need to machine some wider grooves for the nuts/bolts to slide through, not mount on top of... the problem is there just isn't much room between the top of the strut tower and the hood. I had some 4 awg wires running along there for my stereo, and it smashed them between the strut tower and the hood.
try mounting them up and see where you go. if they fit, I'm VERY interested and have the money anytime.
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 2,134
From: West Palm Beach, FL
Man
Originally posted by Matt93GXE
VERY nice.
So it looks like you're going to remove the stock bearing plate and bushing, and the OEM bearing presses into the smaller aluminum piece that mounts to the top of the strut?
nice work. I'm definitely interested. I KNOW they'll work, as long as you have a good shop do the alignment. one thing to watch out for though is hood clearanace.. does the top plate mount on top of the strut tower inside the car, or below it? I assume you just stick it together with 3 bolts through that plate and the strut towers in the car...
back to the hood clearance thing.. you MIGHT need to machine some wider grooves for the nuts/bolts to slide through, not mount on top of... the problem is there just isn't much room between the top of the strut tower and the hood. I had some 4 awg wires running along there for my stereo, and it smashed them between the strut tower and the hood.
try mounting them up and see where you go. if they fit, I'm VERY interested and have the money anytime.
VERY nice.
So it looks like you're going to remove the stock bearing plate and bushing, and the OEM bearing presses into the smaller aluminum piece that mounts to the top of the strut?
nice work. I'm definitely interested. I KNOW they'll work, as long as you have a good shop do the alignment. one thing to watch out for though is hood clearanace.. does the top plate mount on top of the strut tower inside the car, or below it? I assume you just stick it together with 3 bolts through that plate and the strut towers in the car...
back to the hood clearance thing.. you MIGHT need to machine some wider grooves for the nuts/bolts to slide through, not mount on top of... the problem is there just isn't much room between the top of the strut tower and the hood. I had some 4 awg wires running along there for my stereo, and it smashed them between the strut tower and the hood.
try mounting them up and see where you go. if they fit, I'm VERY interested and have the money anytime.
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 2,134
From: West Palm Beach, FL
Originally Posted by JSutter
May I ask what happened with these?
making them out of steel won't make a difference. the problem is/was a small, but important design flaw that caused the strut shaft to flex and fatigue at the end, and eventually snap.
that's why every other design you see out there has rubber (OEM) or monoball bearings (aftermarket) to allow the things to pivot at the top.
Sutter, I'm using a custom setup now.. modified 4th gen mounts and slotted the strut tower bolts to get additional camber and caster.
that's why every other design you see out there has rubber (OEM) or monoball bearings (aftermarket) to allow the things to pivot at the top.
Sutter, I'm using a custom setup now.. modified 4th gen mounts and slotted the strut tower bolts to get additional camber and caster.
So, redesigning them to accomodate either the rubber or monoball bearings SHOULD correct the flaw, then??
And for those that aren't "in the know", I realize that what I said SOUNDS easy enough, but being an installer for 15 years has taught me one indelible(sp) fact - nothing is EVER as easy as one might think.
And for those that aren't "in the know", I realize that what I said SOUNDS easy enough, but being an installer for 15 years has taught me one indelible(sp) fact - nothing is EVER as easy as one might think.
Originally Posted by nubiannupe
So, redesigning them to accomodate either the rubber or monoball bearings SHOULD correct the flaw, then??
And for those that aren't "in the know", I realize that what I said SOUNDS easy enough, but being an installer for 15 years has taught me one indelible(sp) fact - nothing is EVER as easy as one might think.
And for those that aren't "in the know", I realize that what I said SOUNDS easy enough, but being an installer for 15 years has taught me one indelible(sp) fact - nothing is EVER as easy as one might think.
I did that with mine several years ago and it solved the problem. I ran with them for quite a while, but have gone to different mounts for several other reasons. they worked just fine after adding the monoballs.
Originally Posted by Matt93SE
I had a set of monoball bearings fitted into mine, which solved the problem. but I wound up doing something completely different and they're been sitting in my garage ever since.
Originally Posted by Matt93SE
Yup.
I did that with mine several years ago and it solved the problem. I ran with them for quite a while, but have gone to different mounts for several other reasons. they worked just fine after adding the monoballs.
I did that with mine several years ago and it solved the problem. I ran with them for quite a while, but have gone to different mounts for several other reasons. they worked just fine after adding the monoballs.
Originally Posted by DanNY
if there was some serious interest i might be able to slap a few together....but for some reason i doubt it.
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 2,134
From: West Palm Beach, FL
Originally Posted by DanNY
i think Candi did them for $270...i'm sure it's going to be somewhere around there or even a little more...like i said...i highly doubt someone will even get it.
Originally Posted by CandiMan
Yeah, what was I thinking 7yrs ago. Create a mod that the 3rd gen community will buy, silly me.
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