I just finished up on the C.A. issue now I have another problem the car needed a new master cylinder I just finished installing that. know I just wanted to add the brake fluid to the car and just drive but when I wanted put the car into D and push the brake pedel in it hits the floor all the way down and it feels soft and smooth and spongy. I also bleed a 3 calipers and i wanted to do 4 but the 4 one was striped by my mechinac. I was hoping it would of help nope nothing I tried 2 calpers this time nothing again I also started the engine and pump the brake to pump out the fluid out of the calipers. This did not work either can anyone seriuosly help the car is very dangerous to drive. Thanks again

 

I had the same problem before too. One of my bleeder valve on the rear caliper snapped so I had to replace the whole caliper. Unfortunately, you have to replace it if you want to completely get rid of all air bubbles. You need bleed at least twice at each wheel. First disconnect the 3 abs sensor wires if you had it. Turn off the car. Press down the brake pedal all the way down ~30 times. Then bleed starting from rear left -> front right -> rear right -> front left wheel. When bleeding, make sure your reservoir is always containing fluid. At each wheel, make sure you bled until the reservoir is half emptied then move onto the next wheel.

*I strongly recommend you take those bleeder valves out (if you can), lube them with greases to prevent it from seizing up in the future cuz replacing those calipers aren't cheap option.

 

Since the Left rear bleeder valve went striped so could I get a caliper from the junk yard would those be a good option unless I will have to go wth Auto zone or Nissan assuming Nissan might charge crazy or the friendly NAPA. I have flushed the majorty of the bubbles out but the fluid raises up and down the resiovor everytime I pump the brake pedel.

 

naw, avoid the dealer. Just go to AZ, they come with lifetime warranty. I think the front costs around $50 and rear is around $80 for each caliper. Junkyard is ok if you could get them 1/10 the price AZ is offering. At 50% off AZ price then it's definitely NOT worth it because you don't know if it works until you installed it, then figuring out if the piston was seized up or not.

 

Not bad and do they come with a plan like if you turn in the core you pay a cheaper price.

 

that price is after the core exchange. Just make sure you kept the receipt. Don't turn the core in advanced until you have completely installed them so you could retain every vital components needed.

 

So meaning the rubber hose and the brake pads (of course) but is there anything else.

 

Since you also said you had replaced the master cylinder. I assumed your talking about the one by the main reservoir, right? If so, you need to do something to it. People here used the term "bench bleed" very loosely here. I have never done it so I don't know. Maybe DanNY knows cuz he was disputing over this term with the other guys here.

 

Just check your rubber hoses for cracks, those don't normally go bad very easily unless you physically damaging them. They should last a very very long time, probably the life of the car. I had 220K on my car and they're still original and running fine.

Might have to change your brake pads. New pads should be exactly 1cm thick. If it got worn down to 0.25cm then change it. Usually the front needs frequent changes, usually around 15-30K on semi-metallic depending on how you drive. But the rear was such as waste of money cuz they don't wear out that frequently all. My car has 220K and it looks as if it was never used. I changed it anyway cuz they were cheap and I was at it so I did it.

 

Yes.. that's what I am talking about the main reservoir I installed it with help I also read something about the installation if i am correct you need one person behind the wheel with the brake pedel all the way in the floor and the reservoir with the fluid to the top so it could bleed and then you put the cylinder in and push it in the the person behind the wheel slowly realease's the pedel back to normal position.

 

Ib11ndybillionpages...

 

Try this before buying a new caliper. Go buy a lefthand drill bit ( get a size smaller than the threading). and then use your drill on the highest torque setting (slow speed) to drill into the bleeder valve ( liquid wrench the bleeder before hand at least 1 hr). AS it goes in, it should catch the valve and unscrew it.

 

I had thought about this before too but I can't imagine how could you guys able to grab it with an extractor as that valve was completely hallow in the center and its surrounding wall layer was only 1mm thick. If you slammed into the thread grove by accident and drilled it then it's gonna leak later on.

 

What's stripped on the fitting? Is it the hex nut section or the threaded section? If its the place you put on the hex wrench, I would try filing two flats on it, PB blaster JUST THE FITTING, and after a few hours put a smaller wrench on it or a vise grips and gently try to encourage it out.

 

Im pretty sure you MUST bench bleed the master cylinder. Otherwise you will never be able to get all the air out of it. I replaced mine so long ago that I cant remember the exact procedure, but the new master cylinder should come with instructions for bench bleeding, as well as fittings, plugs and lines to accomplish it.

 

Seems to me you should be able to get out that stripped bleeder bolt by slotting it with a hacksaw or dremel tool, then putting a flathead bit in a 1/4" socket (try 3/8ths drive, for leverage) and just ratchet that sucker out. Then go get another bleeder bolt and you're set, right?

 

Does anyone have any kind of pics for the stuff so I could get the idea of what I need thanks.

 

I also forgot to tell you that when i am driving the car i wonder if anyone of you guys tried this. Try driving the car with the way it is not much of any braking but you have the car at 15 mph and try using the brakes by pumping the brake pedal as your giving the car gas and it will feel strong as it should and feel normal and the car will stop.
The car seams to work this way but i think it is the brake pump thats failing or is it to early to assume anything in that nature.

 

Just buy a pair of vise-grips, lock them on really good, you will either break off the bleeder or it will come out. Yes you have air in your lines, that's why it is doing all of that, did you'r new master cylinder come with the fittings and hoses to bench bleed it?

 

I bought the remanufactured one from the Auto zone and that of course had no instructions that would come with it. It has minor leaks so it should not be as bad as the orignal one was.

 

Does anyone have any pics for these objects here.

 

I have a spare D-side rear caliper from a 92se if anyone needs it.

 

cool, how much and it's in good conditon right.

 

It was in good condition when I removed it. It was removed from a total I was in. I dunno. $20 + shipping/papal fees?

 

I wanted to work on my car today and i had the car on the drive way and i wanted to bleed the cailpers on my car starting the left rear but the damn bleeder valve that was striped just snaped the top of the bleeder valve that snaped so what precedures are there besides the drilling option and some liquid wrench what ever that is. If theres nothing else to do but the drilling that will be fine but some pics of the meaterial like the dremel and some other things that were mentioned here thanks.

 

You could have been rolling right now if you bought my caliper. If that one fits your needs.

You will have to drill and extract the broken bleeder out. So buy tools, fiddle with it for xx hours, buy a new bleeder, see if it screws down after running a drill down there etc.. etc.. etc...

 

toss it...buy another caliper used or reman etc and install it on the car. you bleed from right rear (pass rear), left rear, right front, left front.
get a new banjo bolt and washers when you get the caliper.

loosen the brake line...
unbolt the caliper from the brake torque member.
once your caliper is off the wheel/torque member then hand loosen the brake line and take it off and put it in a small bucket. quickly take the other caliper and place the banjo washer in the right order and bolt on the new banjo bolt w/ brake line back on the caliper.

you should lose very little fluid. bolt caliper back on to the torque member. then start bleeding from the order i described above. do not let the master cyl run dry.

there's no bench bleeding a caliper. once it's done clean up the entire area w/ brake cleaner.

do this RIGHT!!!...this is your brakes...not a headlight. after the mess you made with that control arm..if you feel that you can't do this with some confidence then seek professional help...please. you can't be cheap here.

 

JeffSE92 your used caliper is for 20 bux thats cool so i would like to get it but how far are yah and the wait plus how does the PayPal work could i use the money order or it's the credit card process and what website i have to register in. Thanks.

 

You can send me a money order if you like but that takes more time for it to get to me. See your pm for info

 

okay you mean the private message right. If so there's nothing there yet.

 

I am now just waiting for the calipers to come in later today and so i can put it on the car that's if it does not snow here today as the weather forecasters are saying. yah snow in March

 

Hey we bought my g/fs master cylinder from AZ and yes we got instructions with it. bench bled it, bled all calipers properly and still got air in there. We warrantied it as it has lifetime warranty and did the same with the second MC except this time we bench bled, bled all calipers (farthest from MC to closest) and then bled MC after installed and still has air so once the car has insurance it will be getting either a brake fluid flush or System pressure bleed at a car shop to see if that works cuz it isnt losing any fluid.

Good luck with the brakes, like DanNY said, if you arent sure of what you're doing or dont feel like you're doing it right then seek professional assistance.

 

Did you get the MC with the resovior because I got mine without the resovior I think i did not get mine instructions i am sure i did not get mine but i will check again.

 

I didnt get it with a reservoir

 

Good news I got the calipers in now and I will try to install them tomorrow hoping the weather will be good. I also have some pics to put up for you guys to see if there in good condition and I got them used from the junk yard I asked them for a good condition caliper so I could of got the one from JEFF92SE for 20 bux what a good deal. but I had to get it today cause my folks need the car up and running ASAP. The price was for $80 bux i think that's alot for a use caliper. If these don't work I could take it back to them or turn it in to the pawnshop.

 

Today I was planning on just taking out the caliper then try to play with it a little because i have now idea how it works. So i took out the caliper used lot's of pb blaster and wd40 to remove the bolts cause this thing was stuck and probley siezed up I had to remove the brake lines then the brake cable off of the caliper then I removed the 17mm bolts that ties down the caliper in the slot where the rotors go on. I had to quickly take it inside cause it was cold then I got to play around then find out how it was supposed to go back on. I also took off the 15mm bolts that are on the caliper that actually holds the brakes then I transfered that part on the new caliper. I am now going to install the caliper in later today I hopefully can slide the caliper on the rotor without to much movement cause the brakes will get out of position. I will then put the brake lines in then the brake cable then the car should be ready for some bleeding procedure.
If theres anything missing let me know thanks.

 

i can tell you do NOT follow directions all too well and just do what you want to do.
you understand that there was a reason why i put down that you need to bolt the new caliper back on the hose quickly.

if it's been over night i assume that the master cyl drained dry for the rear lines by now. also there's probably a nice splash of brake fluid (paint stripper) on the body of the car somewhere.

i predict your next post will be a soft brake pedal.
you just love to make more work for yourself.

 

Cant defend ya there, Dan's right, you do like to create more work for yourself and already show that you dont really follow instructions

 

I plugged the hose with a cloth and some vise grip over it so nothing leaked out of the mc actually closing the flow from the hose.

 

How am I not following directions when i don't know how to work on cars and fixing the C.A and the front brakes and the calipers and the rear brakes and the calipers so i am doing what you guys are telling me thats why the cars is back on all 4 wheels running. I am learning as i am doing the car work.