rear crossmember
02-27-2007, 05:23 PM
#1
rear crossmember
ok, so a while back i had a lil wreck and bent up the drivers rear parallel inks and such, little to know i bent the crossmember where the bolt holds the links on, its fine now, but there is no way the bolt is gonna come out now, my crossmember is all rusted, so i want to get a new one, but ive got some abs load sensing valves, on the crossmember. idk wtf to do about it, ive got a crossmember from a non abs car so i might try it and see what happens
anyone ??
anyone ??
02-27-2007, 06:51 PM
#4
Originally Posted by SurraTT
same abs had the load sensing valves and some dont, soo it makes it more of a pain
The car Goon has does have the load sensing valves though because I am getting them...contact him to see if he still has the member and buy it. Problem solved.
02-27-2007, 07:06 PM
#6
you guys are making me nervous. I just ordered a crossmember from the junkyard for $100 shipped. Haven't gotten it yet. Rust is eating the surrounding part around the jack point which worries me so I have to change it. It was really bad man. Anyway before I ordered, I called Courtesy for confirmation. They told me it doesn't matter ABS or non-ABS model, just as long as it's a SOHC from 91-94...then the rear crossmember are interchangeable. They all had the same part number. Unless yours is a VE then it's something else.
02-28-2007, 04:58 AM
#9
Originally Posted by SurraTT
yes i want ot eleminate them, sooo project?
Before anyone chimes in and says to just connect the lines where then end and run a new line back to where they should be (without ABS) or just couple them together where they are after taking the valves out then just remember that a coupler to connect them together will be hard to find and then I wouldn't trust it for safety reasons. There is no way I would eliminate them without running the new NON ABS lines.
The easiest thing to do is get a crossmember from a VE ABS car (didn't know it was only VEs...learn something new here) and keep the valves. There is no reason to eliminate them though since you can get a hold of a crossmember that will work with them now.
why people want to make things harder than they need to be is beyond me.
02-28-2007, 08:45 AM
#11
Originally Posted by mtcookson
My 90 has them... 
I looked through the FSM, and it said VE only.
Anyone else have them on a VG?
Michael- when I looked at mine (over a year ago) it looked like they terminated at a regular flare. which means I could use a regular union NOT a compression union, I don't like compression unions on brake lines either.
02-28-2007, 11:08 AM
#13
well is it ok to have them un hooked??? cuz the links matt has dont ahve the hook up for them, and i wonna get them links
+ i could use brake line, my car is a rust bucket, ill get some pics of the lines
+ i could use brake line, my car is a rust bucket, ill get some pics of the lines
02-28-2007, 12:02 PM
#14
Originally Posted by SurraTT
well is it ok to have them un hooked??? cuz the links matt has dont ahve the hook up for them, and i wonna get them links
+ i could use brake line, my car is a rust bucket, ill get some pics of the lines
+ i could use brake line, my car is a rust bucket, ill get some pics of the lines
the links are all the same...
The brackets you are talking about unbolt from the link and can be removed. I know because I did this when I put adjustable links on my car.
Here is the deal. We all know certain people don't mind doing things like this and in the long run it might not do a single thing to undo them but it is part of a major system and I would think twice about removing them.
BUT if you need new lines then you might as well take them out of the loop with the standard non ABS lines since its really hard to find the lines for the ABS cars. I just went through this and was only able to find one and I had to make my other one.
and the lines going into the sensors are just like the line that goes into the rubber line (which goes to the caliper) meaning that it has a double flare on the end and a nut that is free to move up and down the line. You would need a coupler that has the V in it for the flare to sit against to work correctly.
Now the problem here is that its hard to find metric couplers. Maybe on the net or at your local stores you can find them but I could not find any in my city so that and the fact I don't like the idea of connecting brake lines like that (more failure points) led me to buy the factory lines (except for the one I couldn't get...I bought a double flare tool and a long brake line from Summit to take care of that one).
just think about this one minute though...brakes are pretty much the most important thing on your car. If you screw this up you can wreck your car...do you really want to take a chance.
02-28-2007, 07:06 PM
#15
If you've lowered the car, the load-sensing valves are already mis-calibrated.. you'd be better off removing them.
But if you do, you need to swap brake master cylinder to a non-ABS VE or an ABS VG. (look in the Service data & specs section in your FSM....)
But if you do, you need to swap brake master cylinder to a non-ABS VE or an ABS VG. (look in the Service data & specs section in your FSM....)
02-28-2007, 07:12 PM
#16
Originally Posted by Matt93SE
If you've lowered the car, the load-sensing valves are already mis-calibrated.. you'd be better off removing them.
But if you do, you need to swap brake master cylinder to a non-ABS VE or an ABS VG. (look in the Service data & specs section in your FSM....)
But if you do, you need to swap brake master cylinder to a non-ABS VE or an ABS VG. (look in the Service data & specs section in your FSM....)
or you can just adjust it. Its hard to believe that there is enough adjustment with Intrax but I was able to adjust mine.
03-01-2007, 07:23 AM
#18
Originally Posted by SurraTT
ok so ive got a 90se with no abs, is it possible for me to convert the rear only to non abs???? or would that cause major problems????
there no such thing as a vehicle with ONLY front ABS.
Rear wheel only there are plenty (mostly trucks)
03-01-2007, 10:23 AM
#19
Originally Posted by SurraTT
ok so ive got a 90se with no abs, is it possible for me to convert the rear only to non abs???? or would that cause major problems????
Not to tell you what to do.
BUT JUST BUY THE SPARE ONE I HAVE.
03-01-2007, 10:59 AM
#20
Originally Posted by SurraTT
ok so ive got a 90se with no abs, is it possible for me to convert the rear only to non abs???? or would that cause major problems????
you don't have ABS, so what would you be converting to non-ABS?
speak engrish please.
03-01-2007, 06:31 PM
#23
lol, yes im a very confusing person, the reason i want to convert to non abs, is #1 i have a non abs on my parts car, also if i replace with a abs crossmember ill have to replace the load sensors, cuz they are so rusted they are trash
03-02-2007, 08:32 AM
#25
matt- why are you suggesting replacing the master?
The ABS one will work, unless he runs completely new set of lines. if he's keeping the ABS lines (they go to the ABS pump) he has to stick with an ABS master.
The ABS one will work, unless he runs completely new set of lines. if he's keeping the ABS lines (they go to the ABS pump) he has to stick with an ABS master.
03-02-2007, 09:55 PM
#26
The VE ABS master cylinder is indeed different and has a different proportioning valve than the non ABS and the VG ABS setup.
The Master cylinder that goes with the rear load bias valves may not even have a proportioning valve at all (can't confirm that), but it's definitely different. It relies on the rear load valve thingies to adjust the bias. So if you remove those, you've FUBARd your brake bias- shifting it to the rear an unknown amount.
Thus, it's best to switch to another master cylinder that includes the proportioning valve internally.
The Master cylinder that goes with the rear load bias valves may not even have a proportioning valve at all (can't confirm that), but it's definitely different. It relies on the rear load valve thingies to adjust the bias. So if you remove those, you've FUBARd your brake bias- shifting it to the rear an unknown amount.
Thus, it's best to switch to another master cylinder that includes the proportioning valve internally.
03-03-2007, 07:30 PM
#27
interesting points. I know that when i had bad front struts and disabled ABS (load valves intact) it felt like the rear brakes weren't doing squat during braking. when I put in the front struts it definitely changed the braking ability for the better (no more massive weight shift).
I never did change the master.
w/ ABS (GXE/SE)
W/O ABS
they have different number of ports so it's not a straight swap or an easy one
I never did change the master.
w/ ABS (GXE/SE)
W/O ABS
they have different number of ports so it's not a straight swap or an easy one
03-03-2007, 07:37 PM
#28
Originally Posted by Michael
no I am pretty sure all 3rd gens with ABS had the load sensing valves.
The car Goon has does have the load sensing valves though because I am getting them...contact him to see if he still has the member and buy it. Problem solved.
The car Goon has does have the load sensing valves though because I am getting them...contact him to see if he still has the member and buy it. Problem solved.
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