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Old 03-13-2007, 01:17 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by internetautomar
actually it's totally normal.
short drives will do that to mileage.
heck my uncle only gets 20 mpg on his civic DX stick shift (typically a 35 mpg car)
for my short commute I needed something with more low end for better MPG.
Yeah very true. If you live that close though, I would just say ride a bike and get some exercise! At least that is what I would do. Come into work all sweaty and such. Purely awsome.
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Old 03-13-2007, 09:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Wolf-Strong
Yeah very true. If you live that close though, I would just say ride a bike and get some exercise! At least that is what I would do. Come into work all sweaty and such. Purely awsome.
doesn't work to well in below freezing temperatures. I used to do it.
I may start riding again this year.
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Old 03-13-2007, 10:32 AM
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Originally Posted by internetautomar
doesn't work to well in below freezing temperatures. I used to do it.
I may start riding again this year.
We go from Maximas to Civics to Cadillacs to bicycles...
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Old 03-13-2007, 10:35 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by capedcadaver
We go from Maximas to Civics to Cadillacs to bicycles...
At least he keeps good variety
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Old 03-13-2007, 10:45 AM
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Originally Posted by 94maxshima
At least he keeps good variety
Well as made-fun-of as americans are about our weight/habits, it's always nice to see one willing to exercise... My bike's chain rusted from years outside, so I fear i'll snap it in half the second I really drop my weight onto the pedal. Maybe I'll replace it with a VE timing chain.
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Old 03-13-2007, 11:07 AM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by Wolf-Strong
Yeah it is...which leaves me with the fuel injectors and I do not have $250-300 to fix that. I get about 250 miles off one tank at best, and for right now that will have to do. I am going to save up some money for a month then try and sell it (sigh)
Pull the connector off injector 4. Fill your tank full of gas. Reset your tripmeter. Drive around for 40 - 50 miles (reasonably slowly), refill your tank full at the same gas station and pump. Check your mileage. The maxima can run on 5 cylinders. IF your mileage goes to at least 20 - Try cleaning the connector, reattach and test. If that drops the mileage again then, change your injector.

Also turn your idle adjust screw all the way to open. ( no threads showing or max one half thread showing). Test mileage again with injector connected. This is because you have a short commute and your bypass air supply may not be enough.

Advance timing . Check mileage again (fill gas etc).

All this will only cost your gas money to check.
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Old 03-13-2007, 11:20 AM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by jimbo2006
Pull the connector off injector 4. Fill your tank full of gas. Reset your tripmeter. Drive around for 40 - 50 miles (reasonably slowly), refill your tank full at the same gas station and pump. Check your mileage. The maxima can run on 5 cylinders. IF your mileage goes to at least 20 - Try cleaning the connector, reattach and test. If that drops the mileage again then, change your injector.

Also turn your idle adjust screw all the way to open. ( no threads showing or max one half thread showing). Test mileage again with injector connected. This is because you have a short commute and your bypass air supply may not be enough.

Advance timing . Check mileage again (fill gas etc).

All this will only cost your gas money to check.

This procedure seems like whole lot of trouble just to diagnose a bad fuel injector..
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Old 03-13-2007, 12:59 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by MyGreenMax94
This procedure seems like whole lot of trouble just to diagnose a bad fuel injector..
+1

I know for a fact the resistance on injector 3 and 4 were not right, and I have known for some time now that the injectors were a problem on this car since I first got it, I just wasn't sure which ones until now.

I think the coolent temp sensor worked a little. It seems to be getting the milage it use to be getting (~16-17mpg) when I was doing a lot of freeway driving, which I am doing now as well (my trips are ~30 miles, 20-25 of which is freeway). I am going to clean off the injectors today and hope it makes a bit of a difference, however I doubt it...a shot injector is a shot injector.

oh....and THIS IS SPARTA! (freakin awsome movie and you need to go and see it now if you haven't)


EDIT: Just throwing this out there, but what about the fuel pressure regulator...the vacuum operated thing. Is there an easy way to check this or would it be expensive to replace and just not worth the efforts?
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Old 03-13-2007, 04:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Wolf-Strong
+1

EDIT: Just throwing this out there, but what about the fuel pressure regulator...the vacuum operated thing. Is there an easy way to check this or would it be expensive to replace and just not worth the efforts?
Very simple actually - just go buy a fuel pressure tester from Harbor Freight and connect it between your fuel filter and engine. Measure the pressure (key on, no start - engine on , idle - and throttle open) compare to standards.

However I doubt the fuel pressure regulator has anything to do with your problem.
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Old 03-13-2007, 04:53 PM
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Originally Posted by capedcadaver
We go from Maximas to Civics to Cadillacs to bicycles...
civic was my uncles.

my car list is/was as follows:
93 Caddy STS Here
91 Eclipse Gone
96 I30 Gone
94 Beretta Gone
95 Mitsu Eclipse gone
92 Maxima SE A/T Gone
92 Maxima SE A/T Gone
94 Toyota Camry LE 4 banger Gone
92 Maxima SE M/T Gone
79 olds Custom cruiser Gone
96 integra SE A/T Gone
92 Maxima SE A/T Gone
88 Jeep Cherokee Gone
79 Camaro Gone

what can I say, I enjoy variety.
those are only since I joined the org
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Old 03-16-2007, 08:50 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by internetautomar
with money, any swap is possible.
though swapping in a b18c1 would be easier
Sorry to hijack, but... huh??
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Old 03-17-2007, 07:46 AM
  #52  
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Dude I have like 12 VG injectors I could sell you. PM me if you need any....and they aren't bad to install either.

~Alex
 
Old 02-26-2008, 12:20 PM
  #53  
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Im actually going through a very similar issue with my motor as well, In my case though, because I needed to change the timing belt, water pump, tensioner and the exhaust manifold had the broken studs, I simply got another engine LOL! a good way to fix all your problems for a better price. I found a clean low KM motor at Japan Auto Parts here in Toronto and things have been great once again.
I realized having to fix every problem on the original motor Id be paying well over 2000 or something... I didnt need the headache. Best way to sort it out was a new motor.
Runs great, very quiet and I know it will last a lil while longer.
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Old 02-26-2008, 12:56 PM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by Badman_Maxima
Im actually going through a very similar issue with my motor as well, In my case though, because I needed to change the timing belt, water pump, tensioner and the exhaust manifold had the broken studs, I simply got another engine LOL! a good way to fix all your problems for a better price. I found a clean low KM motor at Japan Auto Parts here in Toronto and things have been great once again.
I realized having to fix every problem on the original motor Id be paying well over 2000 or something... I didnt need the headache. Best way to sort it out was a new motor.
Runs great, very quiet and I know it will last a lil while longer.
so you didn't do any of that to the new motor before you swapped it in???
that is a seriously bad idea. you should have done the WP and the timing belt before dropping in the motor, since you have absolutely no clue as to the motors true mileage.
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Old 02-26-2008, 03:00 PM
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Originally Posted by internetautomar
so you didn't do any of that to the new motor before you swapped it in???
that is a seriously bad idea. you should have done the WP and the timing belt before dropping in the motor, since you have absolutely no clue as to the motors true mileage.
My friend's 2.2L probe is getting a new-to-it powerplant soon, because his current one is brimming 300k, had crapped out lifters, burns/leaks a whole pint of oil every day, and recently sprouted some rod knock (and probably therefore a bent rod and scarred crank). We're doing tbelt, water pump, front main, rear main, cam seal, oilpan gasket, head gasket, vc gasket, intake and exhaust manifold gasket, and if the lifters look bad then we'll do them too. THEN we're putting it in the car.
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Old 02-27-2008, 10:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Badman_Maxima
Im actually going through a very similar issue with my motor as well, In my case though, because I needed to change the timing belt, water pump, tensioner and the exhaust manifold had the broken studs, I simply got another engine LOL! a good way to fix all your problems for a better price. I found a clean low KM motor at Japan Auto Parts here in Toronto and things have been great once again.
I realized having to fix every problem on the original motor Id be paying well over 2000 or something... I didnt need the headache. Best way to sort it out was a new motor.
Runs great, very quiet and I know it will last a lil while longer.
That's too bad. I was GIVING away my VG motor and tranny around this time last year. Nobody locally needed one. It was in prime running condition including new F&R manifolds, timing belt, water pump, CAI, custom valve cover. All the parts were only about a year old... and it was all free... and I'm in Toronto. Hope the one you bought works out well for you.
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