Choppy Idle
#1
Choppy Idle
It doesnt happen all the time just once and awhile. Ill start my car let it warm up and go down to the stop sign and the idle will be really choppy and bouncing off of 500RPM. It wont die it just acts like it wants to. Could it be the cold weather around here?
#3
#4
mind used to do something similar when it was cold. particularly on just enough throttle for the TPS idle switch to turn off... it would stumble like mad. http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?p=4702450 i have a video you can watch and see if it appears to be the same problem you have. sorry i can't tell you what fixed it. I try and keep up with maintenance on this thing so there's no telling what actually fixed it.
Last edited by CapedCadaver; 02-23-2008 at 11:48 AM.
#5
search for "idle" and you'll see that it can be multiple causes.
#6
mind used to do something similar when it was cold. particularly on just enough throttle for the TPS idle switch to turn off... it would stumble like mad. http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?p=4702450 i have a video you can watch and see if it appears to be the same problem you have. sorry i can't tell you what fixed it. I try and keep up with maintenance on this thing so there's no telling what actually fixed it.
#7
well make sure you fix anything that may be throwing a code, do a full tuneup w/ fuel filter and clean tb and maf with the proper cleaning sprays (don't cheap out and use carb cleaner on the maf, it'll kill it) and check all the electrical plugins for all your sensors for corrosion and green crap on the terminals.
then when you do all that, run a round of seafoam, and drive happy.
then when you do all that, run a round of seafoam, and drive happy.
#8
... clean tb and maf with the proper cleaning sprays (don't cheap out and use carb cleaner on the maf, it'll kill it) and check all the electrical plugins for all your sensors for corrosion and green crap on the terminals.
then when you do all that, run a round of seafoam, and drive happy.
then when you do all that, run a round of seafoam, and drive happy.
![+1](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/+1.gif)
I had the same problem right after I installed my Phenolic spacers. I went ahead and guessed an injector(s), measured, and only 1 measured 50ohm. Cleaned out all the injector connectors while I was at it with Electrial Cleaner Spray.
Idle was still stuttering after that.
Then I tuned up (spark plugs, wires, cap and rotor), and it still stuttered after that
Then I read somewhere the MAF connection or the MAF itself could be the problem. Before spraying MAF cleaner, I checked the electrical connector, and it was green'd up. I cleaned that up with spray. At the same time I was cleaning MAF I noticed they corrogated rubber connector hose from airplenum to "S" pipe was torn along it's seam. I fastened that hose down harder to make sure unfiltered air was getting in. Put it all together, and I've never had a idle stutter since then.
IN SHORT! my problem was either the torn corrogated air hose was letting in unfiltered/hot air, or the MAF connector was too green'd up.
Good luck sir.
#9
Im gonna go out to my car right now and see if i can clean anything up to get this thing running good. Ill come abck and let you know if I find anything wrong.
Edit: I went out to look at it and started it and right away i could smell gas so my injector o-rings are probly shot or sumthing with makes this even worse cuz i dnt have the time, patience or money to mess around with this thing.
Edit: I went out to look at it and started it and right away i could smell gas so my injector o-rings are probly shot or sumthing with makes this even worse cuz i dnt have the time, patience or money to mess around with this thing.
Last edited by maxima_man1992; 02-24-2008 at 12:12 PM.
#10
Im gonna go out to my car right now and see if i can clean anything up to get this thing running good. Ill come abck and let you know if I find anything wrong.
Edit: I went out to look at it and started it and right away i could smell gas so my injector o-rings are probly shot or sumthing with makes this even worse cuz i dnt have the time, patience or money to mess around with this thing.
Edit: I went out to look at it and started it and right away i could smell gas so my injector o-rings are probly shot or sumthing with makes this even worse cuz i dnt have the time, patience or money to mess around with this thing.
1. broken exhaust studs, as you might know VGs are familiar for
2. the injector is failing(failed) and gas is being pushed out without being burned. i figured it would combust from engine heat as you said you "just" started you car, so I assumed a relatively cold start.
I don't recall if you've gotten any CEL light ups, have you? Don't give up just yet...
![Smilie](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Last edited by super32; 02-24-2008 at 12:27 PM.
#11
Well, just in case, you should measure your injector ohms (not sure if you've done so already). the gas smell could be 2 things
1. broken exhaust studs, as you might know VGs are familiar for
2. the injector is failing(failed) and gas is being pushed out without being burned. i figured it would combust from engine heat as you said you "just" started you car, so I assumed a relatively cold start.
I don't recall if you've gotten any CEL light ups, have you? Don't give up just yet...![Smilie](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
1. broken exhaust studs, as you might know VGs are familiar for
2. the injector is failing(failed) and gas is being pushed out without being burned. i figured it would combust from engine heat as you said you "just" started you car, so I assumed a relatively cold start.
I don't recall if you've gotten any CEL light ups, have you? Don't give up just yet...
![Smilie](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
#12
CEL = check engine light. my car threw a code but didn't actually have the light on... even though the light works.
#14
Today I went and did the light thing on the ECU and i got code 55 which is normal operation so i dnt know whats up. Anyways whats ever wrong with this car its eating my gas like it was a freakin V8 pickup.
#16
Perhaps try cleaning all your ground terminals, might help with idle. As far as economy, what mpg are you getting? Try a 30-40 mile highway run at steady speed and report back.
#17
next place I'd look is to measure the injector terminals with a ohm meter. I think good resistors are in the 12-14ohm range? Anything outside this range is not good. Of course, the higher the resistance you read, the worse. At 25ohm, injector is not very good, but I think it's still opening up. At 100+ohm, I'm not even sure if they open anymore? That's my speculation, but I do suggest you measure up your injectors.
If you've got 3+ injectors going out... i'd expect some idle issues. But, it'd be wierd that you don't feel anything during actual driving. Changing all 6-injectors will cost $125/injector x 6 (might as well change 'em all since you're in there). If you do it yourself, that's it. If you send it to the shop like I did... it'll be somewhere between 300-500 for labor (and possibly other stuff like gaskets between the airplenum and stuff).
I'd lean more towards your injectors now that your cleaned your connections, you have no ECU codes (ie. you got 55), and it seems you recently got this car, so I assume you haven't done anything with the injectors.
Have you cleaned your throttle body yet?
If you've got 3+ injectors going out... i'd expect some idle issues. But, it'd be wierd that you don't feel anything during actual driving. Changing all 6-injectors will cost $125/injector x 6 (might as well change 'em all since you're in there). If you do it yourself, that's it. If you send it to the shop like I did... it'll be somewhere between 300-500 for labor (and possibly other stuff like gaskets between the airplenum and stuff).
I'd lean more towards your injectors now that your cleaned your connections, you have no ECU codes (ie. you got 55), and it seems you recently got this car, so I assume you haven't done anything with the injectors.
Have you cleaned your throttle body yet?
Last edited by super32; 02-25-2008 at 02:15 PM.
#18
next place I'd look is to measure the injector terminals with a ohm meter. I think good resistors are in the 12-14ohm range? Anything outside this range is not good. Of course, the higher the resistance you read, the worse. At 25ohm, injector is not very good, but I think it's still opening up. At 100+ohm, I'm not even sure if they open anymore? That's my speculation, but I do suggest you measure up your injectors.
If you've got 3+ injectors going out... i'd expect some idle issues. But, it'd be wierd that you don't feel anything during actual driving. Changing all 6-injectors will cost $125/injector x 6 (might as well change 'em all since you're in there). If you do it yourself, that's it. If you send it to the shop like I did... it'll be somewhere between 300-500 for labor (and possibly other stuff like gaskets between the airplenum and stuff).
I'd lean more towards your injectors now that your cleaned your connections, you have no ECU codes (ie. you got 55), and it seems you recently got this car, so I assume you haven't done anything with the injectors.
Have you cleaned your throttle body yet?
If you've got 3+ injectors going out... i'd expect some idle issues. But, it'd be wierd that you don't feel anything during actual driving. Changing all 6-injectors will cost $125/injector x 6 (might as well change 'em all since you're in there). If you do it yourself, that's it. If you send it to the shop like I did... it'll be somewhere between 300-500 for labor (and possibly other stuff like gaskets between the airplenum and stuff).
I'd lean more towards your injectors now that your cleaned your connections, you have no ECU codes (ie. you got 55), and it seems you recently got this car, so I assume you haven't done anything with the injectors.
Have you cleaned your throttle body yet?
#19
Sounds like you have a dead miss, most likely from either a bad injector, or lack of a proper tune up(i.e. plugs/plug wires/distributor cap/rotor)
#21
Check the Injectors by pushing on the connections.,., You will notice if you have a bad connection.... If all good,,,check all the air hoses to throtlebody.. Go buy Seafoam and add a whole can to the fuel(fuller' up), to clean out the fuel system and open up any clog in the injectors.. And a can for the crank case(I used the whole can) to free up them valves and lifters. Gun it and use up that fuel before you add more..
#22
Check the Injectors by pushing on the connections.,., You will notice if you have a bad connection.... If all good,,,check all the air hoses to throtlebody.. Go buy Seafoam and add a whole can to the fuel(fuller' up), to clean out the fuel system and open up any clog injectors.. And a can for the crank case(I used the whole can) to free up them valves and lifters. Gun it and use up that fuel before you add more..
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