Bleeding Brakes?
#2
Guest
Posts: n/a
Get a Haynes or Chiltons. Read the brake bleeding part. Get a Friend and a 6 pack of your fav. beverage and go to it. It is really easy. You will need a bit of fluid, a CLEAN jar and some hose of the proper size (in the Haynes or Chiltons manual)
The basic procedure runs like this.
Disable ABS by removing a fuse (See Manual)
put one corner of the car on a jack stand
remove the tire
Pump up the brake pedal
place hose on bleeder, dunk other end of hose into a clean jar about 1/4 filled with NEW brake fluid. (keep that end submerged)
With your friends foot on the brake pedal Open the bleeder valve with a wrench just a little bit, let fluid come out. You will see air bubbles if there is air in the system.
Close the bleeder. Add more fluid to the master Cylinder.
Pump up the brake pedal again until it is firm.
If there were bubbles repeat until there are no more bubbles.
Do this for all 4 corners in the order specified in the manual.
If you don't have friends you can pick up a set of Speed Bleeders.
BTW removing the tire is optional, but it makes it easier to get to the bleeder valve.
The basic procedure runs like this.
Disable ABS by removing a fuse (See Manual)
put one corner of the car on a jack stand
remove the tire
Pump up the brake pedal
place hose on bleeder, dunk other end of hose into a clean jar about 1/4 filled with NEW brake fluid. (keep that end submerged)
With your friends foot on the brake pedal Open the bleeder valve with a wrench just a little bit, let fluid come out. You will see air bubbles if there is air in the system.
Close the bleeder. Add more fluid to the master Cylinder.
Pump up the brake pedal again until it is firm.
If there were bubbles repeat until there are no more bubbles.
Do this for all 4 corners in the order specified in the manual.
If you don't have friends you can pick up a set of Speed Bleeders.
BTW removing the tire is optional, but it makes it easier to get to the bleeder valve.
#3
Originally posted by TerribleTed
Get a Haynes or Chiltons. Read the brake bleeding part. Get a Friend and a 6 pack of your fav. beverage and go to it. It is really easy. You will need a bit of fluid, a CLEAN jar and some hose of the proper size (in the Haynes or Chiltons manual)
The basic procedure runs like this.
Disable ABS by removing a fuse (See Manual)
put one corner of the car on a jack stand
remove the tire
Pump up the brake pedal
place hose on bleeder, dunk other end of hose into a clean jar about 1/4 filled with NEW brake fluid. (keep that end submerged)
With your friends foot on the brake pedal Open the bleeder valve with a wrench just a little bit, let fluid come out. You will see air bubbles if there is air in the system.
Close the bleeder. Add more fluid to the master Cylinder.
Pump up the brake pedal again until it is firm.
If there were bubbles repeat until there are no more bubbles.
Do this for all 4 corners in the order specified in the manual.
If you don't have friends you can pick up a set of Speed Bleeders.
BTW removing the tire is optional, but it makes it easier to get to the bleeder valve.
Get a Haynes or Chiltons. Read the brake bleeding part. Get a Friend and a 6 pack of your fav. beverage and go to it. It is really easy. You will need a bit of fluid, a CLEAN jar and some hose of the proper size (in the Haynes or Chiltons manual)
The basic procedure runs like this.
Disable ABS by removing a fuse (See Manual)
put one corner of the car on a jack stand
remove the tire
Pump up the brake pedal
place hose on bleeder, dunk other end of hose into a clean jar about 1/4 filled with NEW brake fluid. (keep that end submerged)
With your friends foot on the brake pedal Open the bleeder valve with a wrench just a little bit, let fluid come out. You will see air bubbles if there is air in the system.
Close the bleeder. Add more fluid to the master Cylinder.
Pump up the brake pedal again until it is firm.
If there were bubbles repeat until there are no more bubbles.
Do this for all 4 corners in the order specified in the manual.
If you don't have friends you can pick up a set of Speed Bleeders.
BTW removing the tire is optional, but it makes it easier to get to the bleeder valve.
Additionally, I would start with the longest line, which is typically the right rear corner, first. Go to the left rear next, then the right front and finally the left front. This keeps any air from back flowing into other lines and wastes the least fluid.
#4
And, don't forget to be careful with that brake fluid... It will take the paint right off your car.
I prefer Valvoline Synpower DOT3/DOT4. Do NOT USE DOT5 synthetic - it is incompatible with DOT3/4 and can cause serious problems.
I prefer Valvoline Synpower DOT3/DOT4. Do NOT USE DOT5 synthetic - it is incompatible with DOT3/4 and can cause serious problems.
#5
Guest
Posts: n/a
A little cheap AutoXer secrete... Ford heavy duty DOT3 fluid is excellent stuff. What happend is little old people in their Crown Vics would ride the brakes and boil fluid, then complain that the brakes weren't working right. So Ford made up a new DOT3 for them, called it Heavy Duty and that fixed the problem. It is cheap, it is good stuff and you can get it at your local ford dealer by the caseful.
#6
Originally posted by TerribleTed
A little cheap AutoXer secrete... Ford heavy duty DOT3 fluid is excellent stuff. What happend is little old people in their Crown Vics would ride the brakes and boil fluid, then complain that the brakes weren't working right. So Ford made up a new DOT3 for them, called it Heavy Duty and that fixed the problem. It is cheap, it is good stuff and you can get it at your local ford dealer by the caseful.
A little cheap AutoXer secrete... Ford heavy duty DOT3 fluid is excellent stuff. What happend is little old people in their Crown Vics would ride the brakes and boil fluid, then complain that the brakes weren't working right. So Ford made up a new DOT3 for them, called it Heavy Duty and that fixed the problem. It is cheap, it is good stuff and you can get it at your local ford dealer by the caseful.
What is the dealer cost for this fluid?
#7
so what's the fsm say for the order of bleeding? and if you've got one of those vacuum bleeding things, does your car have to be on?
I've spilled brake fluid on the inside of the engine compartment trying to fill the reservoir...no paint loss yet.
Jae
I've spilled brake fluid on the inside of the engine compartment trying to fill the reservoir...no paint loss yet.
Jae
#8
Originally posted by ThurzNite
so what's the fsm say for the order of bleeding? and if you've got one of those vacuum bleeding things, does your car have to be on?
I've spilled brake fluid on the inside of the engine compartment trying to fill the reservoir...no paint loss yet.
Jae
so what's the fsm say for the order of bleeding? and if you've got one of those vacuum bleeding things, does your car have to be on?
I've spilled brake fluid on the inside of the engine compartment trying to fill the reservoir...no paint loss yet.
Jae
#9
Originally posted by ThurzNite
so what's the fsm say for the order of bleeding? and if you've got one of those vacuum bleeding things, does your car have to be on?
I've spilled brake fluid on the inside of the engine compartment trying to fill the reservoir...no paint loss yet.
Jae
so what's the fsm say for the order of bleeding? and if you've got one of those vacuum bleeding things, does your car have to be on?
I've spilled brake fluid on the inside of the engine compartment trying to fill the reservoir...no paint loss yet.
Jae
since our reservoir is in the front left, do RR,RL,FR,FL
#10
Originally posted by mykizism
rub it, 100% the paint will peel right off
rub it, 100% the paint will peel right off
i can't rub it...otherwise i woulda wiped it off in the first place. at the time, i forgot that it washes off with water. oh wells.
so does the car need to be on when you're bleeding clutch or brakes?
Jae
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