it's an se cluster,look at the redline..{6600 rpm=ve only}

 

I have a similar problem.. my acceleration is extreme slow. I have an 89' SE and I'm trying to figure out how to make this thing faster without making it a money pit. I looked at the GorillaChipz on ebay, but they seem really hard to believe (SCAM) so is there any other way? You guys are mentioned the MAF what is that? This thing has potential and I'd love to see it.

Thanks,
Mako3

 

Is your car a automatic or standard? If standard, you should be looking at around 8-9 seconds to 60. If auto, probably around 9-10 seconds. So that's a good place to start from to see if your car is just slow... or if it actually isn't running right. Don't buy any of that too good to be true **** on ebay, none of it works. MAF's are on basically all cars, it stands for "Mass Airflow Sensor" and determines and limits the amount of air going into the throttle body. You need a clean and working one for your car to be operating normally. It is found just before the Air Filter Box Housing on your air intake tube. (Should be a square box about 4"x4") Some Mods that are fairly inexpensive for VG's are:

Warpspeed Y-Pipe
ASP Underdrive Pulley
Cold Air Intake
Advanced Ignition Timing

 

Thanks.. I knew they had to be BS. My Max is an auto, I'll have to time it's 60 to see if it's what u mentioned. Also with the following hopups u recommended Warpspeed Y-Pipe
ASP Underdrive Pulley
Cold Air Intake
Advanced Ignition Timing

Which do you think is most bang for buck, since I'll only be able to afford one of them?

Thanks!

 

Look in the stickies for all this info...No more thread jacking..

 

i wasn't doubting that. i was just curious about the glow color. i knew it was a VE gauge cluster.

as for 0-60, I did a 95% throttle run, turning off the shoulder onto the lane at the start of it, and got 9.9 seconds. start time is the 4th ON click of the blinker (ON off ON off ON off ON-Start-timer) as you can hear me switch from brake pedal to gas pedal, and end time is of course 60mph. you can tell by the 1-2 shift (GXE thus automatic) that i was not WOT, else it'd have held another 400-600RPM before shifting. watch it here...

 

Well for some reason I can create a new thread.. what do you guys think about this:
http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/507

 

no. thats just how it looks. there are actually white but they just look green. anyone have any ideas of what could be b causing slowness after deceleration. does anyone think the transmission could have somethin to do wit it

 

some sort of vaccum-controlled item that will not enter a certain state of existance until after you slow the car down. have you checked your PCV valve?

 

no. no vaccum items have been checked. where is that guy

 

i found it

 

if that was clogged shouldnt it affect initial take off?

 

i don't know specifically. i just know that the vaccuum being really high at decel/idle makes the valve work differently than it does on WOT... but yeah you have a lot of things to check overall, not just one valve here or there.

 

so i should just check to see if its clogged or wut?

 

Did you check/replace/bypass the KS?

If vacuum is to blame it will most likely be the booster IMO (leaking/bad vacuum chamber membrane allowing unmetered air into the combustion chamber) - plug the pipe going to the booster and do another testrun to see if it changes anything ................ remember your brakes will suck under this condition

PCV valve to blame? - I don't think it is able to cause anything as serious as what you experience - even if it is completely stuck open or closed. Its quite able to stuff up a decent idle, but in the end, at WOT your induction system is sucking most if not all the air through the MAF and throttle-body - the PCV valve can only suck air from the sump effectively and if all the seals/gaskets/oil fillercap are present and ok then there simply is no air to suck (unless your rings are screwed in which case you suck blow-by from the combustion chamber anyway!) - to the point that you can effectively remove the PCV valve with no effect on combustion mixture quality on an engine in good condition. The PCV valve is effectively only preventing the sump acting as a varying "resonance chamber" coupled to the intake manifold.

Confirming the PCV valve is not to blame is quite easy too:

Remove the PCV valve from its pipe and block the pipe's end going to the manifold. Remove your oil filler cap (Important that!) and go drive the vehicle.

 

Ok,after looking at the video again[i've had a cup of coffee this time..] it looks to me like you have a bad knock sensor...Have you checked the ecu for codes?

 

I agree on the knock sensor. My 93 SE was a real dog under 3500 rpms until I bypassed it. It's easy enough to bypass to at least diagnose whether it's the problem.

 

yeah seems to be knock sensor. not getting resistance on the meter.another thing ive notice is the fuel inefficiency. at idel can sit for an hour and wont be able to tell the difference in fuel level but after driving looks as though about 10 miles is 1/4 tank. knock sensor too?

 

since i adjusted my cps do you think it could have so effect also?

 

cps?

do you mean "tps"?[throtle position sensor]

If so,the tps does not need to be adjusted..

 

First, Mygreenmax94 is the one with the knowledge. I only bypassed mine this last weekend with his help.

I do know that I got almost 29 mpg going about 80 mph on the highway. I'm sure that's better than what it would have been w/o bypassing the ks.

One of the main areas where I noticed the ks problem was going up hills or at initial takeoff. If you're having trouble getting up hills I'm guessing it's your ks.

 

no camshaft position sensor. do i have to take the intake manifolds off to do bypass. if not how is it done

 

Ahh,the cps..

The cps needs no adjustment either,unless you want to increase/decrease your timing..Which direction did you turn the cps?You may have retarded your timing too much if you turned it the wrong direction...

But if your knock sensor is bad,adjusting the cps will do nothing for for timing anyway...[ecu takes over timing when the k/s is bad]

 

Bypassing the ks is super easy-as long as you're willing to only use premium fuel.

PM me and I'll forward you the conversation between me and mygreenmax94 on how to do it.

 

Disclaimer:
Bypassing the knock sensor should only be done to test the sensor. It should not be used as a long term fix.

 

What does bypassing the knock sensor exactly do for performance? Also with the scam on ebay with the gorillachipz (ECU).. this is wht the guy told me:
"It will work provided your car is equipped with a 2 wire IAT sensor. An IAT stands for (Intake Air Temperature Sensor),
This is a small sensor that determines the temperature of the incoming air, and is usually located on your intake tube, between your throttle body and your air filter.
You can find the location of your IAT sensor by looking it up in a service manual for your vehicle. These are available at your public library, or can be purchased from your local auto parts dealership. Large auto parts chains can also print out the location of the sensor from their data base, as well as show you a replacement sensor, so that you know what your looking for. You can also go to your service bay at your local auto dealership and ask one of the mechanics if they would mind showing you the location of the sensor. Most are more than happy to share their expertise by doing so. Thank you for checking out our business, and I hope you have a great day! "

Thanks,
Mako3

 

bypassing the KS keeps the ECU from hurting your performance. if the KS indicates a knock, or no signal is present from the sensor then the ECU will assume that a knock is present, and it'll cause your engine to retard the timing in order to keep the knock from occuring, but that causes you to lose lots of power. So bypassing a good KS will do more harm than good. Bypassing a bad KS will allow you to see for sure if it's the problem, but use 93 octane and don't leave it bypassed for too long. Just in case it ever does knock... the ECU won't know it and you'll eventually destroy the engine if it knocks a lot.

 

Alright thanks.. so how do u bypass the KS? And what do you think about those so called scams on ebay.. such as gorilla chips? The reply he sent me back that I posted above, does that make any sense and do u think it will increase my performance in anyway?

Thanks,
Mako3

 

the "knock" sensor is a misnomer for the part. It is actually a DETONATION sensor. if detonation occurs it will damage your rod bearings, the more often it occurs the more damage that WILL occur. If the sensor detects detonation, it will retard the timing in the hopes of preventing the detonation from continuing.
IF you bypass the resistor you remove this protection. On an older car (especially one with low miles) there is a very high chance of carbon building up in the pistons and raising the compression ratio which increase the chance of Detonation

The bypass is intended ONLY as a test procedure. you need to run it with a minimum of 93 octane (not available in all areas).

 

The nice thing about temporarily bypassing the ks is that your car will run better while you wait to get it repaired. That and you'll know the ks is the problem. It was a pain driving mine with a bad ks, barely making it up hills and everything.

Oh, and Mako3: I have no idea what those chips are, but just the fact that you're referring to them as scams would make me stay away. If I told you about a great scam I had for you, would you be interested?

 

is this why some guys say their cars feel faster with age? buildup adding compression and possibly power?

 

lol.. well everyone calls them scams and it's a bit sketchy. And the person told me that the way the chips work is that they fool the car into thinking that the air coming in is colder than it actually is which gives you more Hp. Which doesn't really make sense, but I'm not really that smart when it comes to cars. Also with the KS, my car seems like it could run faster I havent timed its 0-60 yet, but going up hills is pretty pathetic.

Also do u think I'll be able to get a VQ35HR in my 3rd gen 89' Nissan Maxima SE? It's auto and is FWD any good (my friends tell me fwd is ****ty)? I want a hella fast car like an Evo but that's so much f'n money. The thing about suping up this old maxima is that I can't get the money back out of it, besides winning races (since it's worth only like $1,000). But in the end all I really want is a hella fast car, like hella fast.. to run 9s in quarter mile would be nice. How much do u think it'll cost me to get my Maxima to do that? Also if I dropped that VQ35HR in, would I be about to fit TT?

Thanks,
Mako3

 

RWD>>FWD... division of labor. 2 jobs (turn, go), 2 pairs of wheels doing the work in RWD. You double-up work on FWD. That means that when you go into a corner really hard the drive tires are going to lose grip first, so a RWD car will oversteer and spin out, which you can countersteer and 'drift' and turn really sharp. FWD just goes dead-ahead until it regains enough grip.

That and when you floor it the car rocks back, onto the rear wheels... so if your power comes from the back you'll have more grip to push with, and can lay down more power. in FWD it rocks back, off the front tires, and they are not gripping and thus spinning in air.

If you want a VQ35HRTT you'd be better off putting it in a 300zx body or something. the 3rd gen engine bay has low hood clearance which is why they had to make sacrifices on the engine dimensions of our cars to make them fit. So you'd be stuffing a big TT RWD engine into a cramped FWD engine bay... and you'd melt your front tires before you got off the line... not worth it.

 

Alright thanks.. is there anyway to make it RWD? Also do those chips work what so ever? And where do I start with the KS?

 

if you want to make it RWD good luck but it's one HELL of a job to do, and there's not much support around on the internet for that.

 

Hmm.. well then I'll save up for a new car. But I would still like the make this thing faster without putting over $300 into it. What do u guys suggest, is there anyway to bypass the governor?

Thanks

 

I have already warned you once about jacking this thread to ask about performance mods for your car...


LOOK IN THE STICKIES!!

 

Well for some reason.. I cant post anywhere else? I activated my accnt, but for some reason I can create threads or pm people.

 

http://forums.maxima.org/forumdisplay.php?f=3

See the sticky? read it..

 

just do that.
you want 9s out of a car that did 16s stock
you're talking about swapping a motor that isn't even out yet , but don't want to spend over $300
sell the max and buy a better starting point for your suicide machine.