Slow air conditioning leak
05-04-2007, 03:47 AM
#1
Slow air conditioning leak
Fellow enthusiasts...it's that time of year again in the south when having cold air is a necessity. I've got a slow freon (R-134) leak but haven't been able to pinpoint it's location. I can charge the system, and it's cold. Two weeks later, she's no longer cold. Any hints on connections or hoses that are known 3rd gen problems. The car is a 93 GXE with 126K and I believe all of the air conditioning components are original. I have the FSM but don't have a great deal of experience with air conditioning repairs. Your help is greatly appreciated. Thanks.
05-04-2007, 04:39 AM
#2
You need to charge it up again, this time with dye. Get the lil dye kit that they have at auto stores, that will pinpoint your leak.
I don't know whats a typical spot, but in my 90 my compressor was leaking.
I don't know whats a typical spot, but in my 90 my compressor was leaking.
05-04-2007, 05:25 AM
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Washington
Posts: 563
Be really carefull with that leak and get it taken care of asap because if it's leaking out as a gas and the motor pulls it in and burns it you'll have some lethal exhaust. My teacher had some horror stories about that. 
05-04-2007, 05:30 AM
#4
Originally Posted by Jon94SE
Be really carefull with that leak and get it taken care of asap because if it's leaking out as a gas and the motor pulls it in and burns it you'll have some lethal exhaust. My teacher had some horror stories about that.
05-04-2007, 06:09 AM
#6
i honestly am fine in the heat with no A/C, but with a gal... i may have to use it so i am not an "ahole"....and mine is totally out of juice....is it true that if there is a leak in the thing they will not charge it up untill it is fixed? and where can i go to get a cheap charge up? this car is...on its last season and i m not tryin to throw away more money than needed.
thanks
thanks
05-04-2007, 06:57 AM
#7
Originally Posted by Prophecy99
i honestly am fine in the heat with no A/C, but with a gal... i may have to use it so i am not an "ahole"....and mine is totally out of juice....is it true that if there is a leak in the thing they will not charge it up untill it is fixed? and where can i go to get a cheap charge up? this car is...on its last season and i m not tryin to throw away more money than needed.
thanks
thanks
05-04-2007, 11:22 AM
#9
Originally Posted by Prophecy99
i didnt do anything.....so its....R12....whats that mean for me?....
It's damn $$$. Over $1,000 a 25lb or a 50lb drum now, I forget. You may need a few lbs...
05-04-2007, 12:51 PM
#11
Originally Posted by Alex_V
Theres a cheap r-12 replacement. Google it. I need a small can, my AC doesn't blow continuously on "4" but blows 24/7 on 3....
Its like fr-12 or something...
~Alex
Its like fr-12 or something...
~Alex
Just convert over while parts avaliable it will save you in the long run.
05-04-2007, 01:21 PM
#13
Originally Posted by goon9
It's damn $$$. Over $1,000 a 25lb or a 50lb drum now, I forget. You may need a few lbs...
Originally Posted by goon9
Mixes and replacements are a time bomb to any system.....
Just convert over while parts avaliable it will save you in the long run.
Just convert over while parts avaliable it will save you in the long run.
05-04-2007, 01:24 PM
#14
get a stop leak and charge it.
R12 is roughly $1k for 30lbs right now
R134a is roughly $100 for 30 lbs right now
Alex_V is referring to freeze 12. It's a drop in replacement for R12.
R12 is roughly $1k for 30lbs right now
R134a is roughly $100 for 30 lbs right now
Alex_V is referring to freeze 12. It's a drop in replacement for R12.
05-04-2007, 01:27 PM
#15
Originally Posted by internetautomar
get a stop leak and charge it.
R12 is roughly $1k for 30lbs right now
R134a is roughly $100 for 30 lbs right now
Alex_V is referring to freeze 12. It's a drop in replacement for R12.
R12 is roughly $1k for 30lbs right now
R134a is roughly $100 for 30 lbs right now
Alex_V is referring to freeze 12. It's a drop in replacement for R12.
05-04-2007, 02:13 PM
#16
goon9, thanks for the advice. I added R-134 with dye and fully charged the system. She's cold! Unfortunately there are no obvious leaks in the engine bay at any connections. I'm hoping I don't have a leak in the passenger compartment. I'll keep checking and see if she gets warm over the next few weeks.
05-04-2007, 04:15 PM
#17
Originally Posted by 93SCMax
goon9, thanks for the advice. I added R-134 with dye and fully charged the system. She cold! Unfortunately there are no obvious leaks in the engine bay at any connections. I'm hoping I don't have a leak in the passenger compartment. I'll keep checking and see if she gets warm over the next few weeks.
WHY???
When you mix different freons with different chemical builds... In this case r-12 + r-134 will create an acid. Acid eats things..... I've never done this so I don't know what you will run into.
But after you change the compressor and drier, you also need flush the system with nitrogen. Supposed to, but I just pulled the old freon out and pulled a vaccuum for 30 minutes. Then add the freon.
About the leaks, once you find them, unbld the connection and replace the o-ring. They sell those at auto stores.
The problem with drop in replacement is they can break down in time and cause irratic pressures. Sometimes causing the the compressor to shut off because of either too much presssure or too little with the proper amount of freon. I'm not a pro... Yet. But I'm learning myself.
05-05-2007, 03:28 AM
#19
Alex V, You are right, I have a 1993 GXE which came standard with R-134a per the FSM and the tag on the compressor. No mixing with my initial post. Prophesy99 has the 91. It may be the older years had the R-12 and I agree that I don't think you should mix the freons.
I'm going to double check for leaks again today, and also run the Auto Climate diagnosics check as outlined in the 1993 FSM.
Thanks for everyon's input.
I'm going to double check for leaks again today, and also run the Auto Climate diagnosics check as outlined in the 1993 FSM.
Thanks for everyon's input.
05-05-2007, 07:21 PM
#20
Originally Posted by goon9
Dear lord... If you want to swap over to r-134. You need to change the compressor to a r-134 compressor and the the drier.
WHY???
When you mix different freons with different chemical builds... In this case r-12 + r-134 will create an acid. Acid eats things..... I've never done this so I don't know what you will run into.
But after you change the compressor and drier, you also need flush the system with nitrogen. Supposed to, but I just pulled the old freon out and pulled a vaccuum for 30 minutes. Then add the freon.
About the leaks, once you find them, unbld the connection and replace the o-ring. They sell those at auto stores.
The problem with drop in replacement is they can break down in time and cause irratic pressures. Sometimes causing the the compressor to shut off because of either too much presssure or too little with the proper amount of freon. I'm not a pro... Yet. But I'm learning myself.
WHY???
When you mix different freons with different chemical builds... In this case r-12 + r-134 will create an acid. Acid eats things..... I've never done this so I don't know what you will run into.
But after you change the compressor and drier, you also need flush the system with nitrogen. Supposed to, but I just pulled the old freon out and pulled a vaccuum for 30 minutes. Then add the freon.
About the leaks, once you find them, unbld the connection and replace the o-ring. They sell those at auto stores.
The problem with drop in replacement is they can break down in time and cause irratic pressures. Sometimes causing the the compressor to shut off because of either too much presssure or too little with the proper amount of freon. I'm not a pro... Yet. But I'm learning myself.
once you have vaccumed down the system all R12 will have been removed from the system, so you can then safely recharge it with r134a and the correct OIL.
we've done it many times in automotive.
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