CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

basically every time i am at 10-25% throttle my temp gauge is very fluttery. if i lift off, the needle holds steady. i know that several months ago i noticed that the gauge drops to C at WOT over 5k rpm. any reason why my throttle position would affect my temp gauge? a bad ground? also would this problem affect the actual performance of the engine in any way (such as messing with fuel amounts and stuff)?

Greeny

iTrader: (43)

Replace your thermostat....Bleed the system of air...

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

so that would cause my temp needle to flutter at a very rapid pace? it's practically seismograph-needle speed, just not as wide of a variance as you'd see on an earthquake. and... the water pump accelerating the coolant is the cause for the fluttering? i just assumed all along it was an electrical/sensor issue..

goon9

iTrader: (13)

If the stat is jammed open, or busted it will pulsate with engine rpms. Reving the motor spins the water pump faster...

EDIT: I finally re-read your post. You got it.

Something to keep in the back of your head, if at some point your temp gauge drops to cold, and or spikes to hot then your gauge is bad and needs resoldering. To be sure it's the gauge, when it spikes or drops; hit the dashboard and if it changes thats the prob.

Greeny

iTrader: (43)

What he said..

maxitech

iTrader: (7)

If the actual problem turned out to be the gauge cluster mechanism, it would be a new one to me...

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

heh, well the needle only drops to C over 5k rpm and i'm not really too enthused about holding the engine at 5300RPM and smacking the cluster....

the rest of the time it just kinda struggles to reach proper level. It flutcuates downward toward cold, and depending where it is in the warmup cycle, it may actually drop to C (just because the needle wasn't that high up to begin with)

but again, will this cause any sort of performance, idle quality, or fuel management issues? or just a fluttery gauge?

EDIT: i'll try and get you guys a video so you can see exactly what i'm talking about.
http://s164.photobucket.com/albums/u...t=MVI_1785.flv from 2-7-07 so you can see the over-5000RPM drop-to-C

Greeny

iTrader: (43)

Joo gots electrical problems dude...


How many times have you taken the cluster apart again?

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

twice. that was after i fixed the odometer. the stuff i fixed works flawlessly, btw. i'm getting different gauges (125mph whiteface gauges) in the near future, so i guess i'll just see how they fare. all the screws are tight though afaik. anyhow i'll try to get you that flutter video tomorrow.

keep in mind, the video you just watched was from back when my idle was perfect and low. iacv resistances came out on the high end of normal, as i tested them yesterday. i'll check the iacv harness-to-ECU continity too, as well as seafoaming once i get the ballz to do so.

but that's what made me think it was electrical is because no matter how abruptly or gently i got back onto the gas (today... temp was about 30° (angle.. dunno if it was 30°F or whatnot) short of being fully warm when i did my throttle play to see what made it flutter), as soon as it reached about 10% throttle it would flutter madly.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

http://s164.photobucket.com/albums/u...t=MVI_2243.flv there are 2 WOT runs where you can see the needle acting up. sadly it didn't act up under the partial throttle as it was yesterday.

redwood_usa

iTrader: (4)

You got a loose/corroded wire somewhere in the temp circuit and at WOT the vibration breaks the signal.

goon9

iTrader: (13)

I'm sure it's the gauge, just look at the back of the gauge and resolder the connections.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

i'll check my cluster tomorrow. i have a spare gauge i can test with. i have not swapped this one yet, just the odometer's motor, and the speedo. but i bought a full cluster so i have a spare tachometer, lights, fuel/temp as well.

but i'm getting the VG-SE gauges soon anyhow so either way i'm not going to be using this gauge anymore.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

also does the fact that it only really does the low-throttle flutter from a fully cold start mean anything? I've tried to capture that on camrea twice, but the engine was still half-warm at startup both times and it wouldn't do it.

beespot23

i have a 98 altima se besides my 93 maxima se, it had the same problem with my altima and it was the Coolant Temperature Sender (not the sensor). i had to clean the harness. hope this helps

beespot23

here is a link

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

the sender being the one on the bottom right?

Alex_V

yep. I replaced both of mine a while ago, I was only have the problems with the 2 wire sensor but I figured a 17yr old sensor should be replaced. Its also cheap and easy.

I'll have to test my cluster before I send it out. Its been sitting a while and its dirty...

~Alex

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

why aren't you ever on aim? guh. yeah when are you sending that stuff anyhow? i'm testing my spare tomorrow, but either way, I need moar white gauges.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

we have a winner! i think...
http://s164.photobucket.com/albums/u...t=MVI_2251.flv

is this thing gonna gush out coolant (i'll replace it cold, of course) when i take it out? should i flush my radiator and replace the sensor before refilling? (the coolant in my reserve tank is actually kindof dirty)

Alex_V

eww stop fingering your sensor.

Yes it'll leak out a lot of coolant. The reserve tank just gets dirty quick, I clean mine out every month or two. Flushing is a good idea since its about $2 for the stuff and you'll be replacing coolant any way.

~Alex

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

$2 for what stuff? the flush fluid or the sensor?

Greeny

iTrader: (43)

You could clean that sensor up/then solder the top of it,that is if you have a soldering tool/solder wire..

If not the sensor is about $20

Or i do have a good used one i can sell you for $5..

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

i was planning to go to a JY in about an hour.... if that's not explicitly considered 'part of the engine' i may just pull it from there.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

well, i went to the JY and got a Taurus cupholder and new temp sender for $25. I installed the new temp sender, and it's been flawless for the last 2 months. So anyone else with a similar problem, jiggle the connection on the sender to see if it's like mine was, and you may have just diagnosed your problem.