so what is it. i just finished replacing my knock sensor exhaust manifold gaskets studs and installing a cia (which im still having problems with) the problem is when if i give the engine gas lightly and slowly increase somewhere between 3k-5k rpm it begins to cut out and sputter.if i put it in gear and give it gas it dies. im not sure if its the vacuum lines or wahat but i need it fixed. help. plz

 

Check your coils for cracks.

 

just my luck. got 1

 

even ones that aren't cracked can be faulty. I had a rear one that looked brand new and it was causing my car problems a few years back.

 

Try this little trick..


Go to auto parts store,grab this stuff.About $5

Spread a thin coat of the gasket sealer all over the coilpack shaft,make sure you get it in the area of the crack throughtly,give the sealant time to dry[half a day in the sun worked welll for me],install,drive happy..

 

i dont no it that will work for mine as it was knocked off the table onto the shop floor (cement) and the shaft is not the part thats cracked. if i knew it was dropped b-4 i would have never re-installed it. but ill try anyway i already have some of that stuff

 

what kinda problems?

 

What was the procedure for checking the coils to see if the're good again? All of mine don't have cracks, but I still miss alittle at idle, with new injectors, plugs, EGR, PCV, Cleaned TB, Cleaned IM, Cleaned IACV, and so on. It's barely noticable, but it still misses.

 

can they be unplugged one at a time?
to see how each one affects idle?

 

yes they can, go 4 it

 

i tested mine with a multi-meter as instructed by haynes manual. resistance was way off on primary and dead on secondary (thats where my crack was)

 

So did you fix it yet, or just know what need to be fixed?

 

now im not even sure. i took out my front coils today. all of them were busted. i mean busted. so i did the silicon app and replaced all of the plugs. it is no longer skipping but is still non-drivable. the engine still shakes when it reaches around 3k or higher in neutral. if i go in gear and give it gas it wants to die almost instantly. help. plz

 

does anyone think my cia or camshaft position sensor could cause this

 

The silicon can only go so far, your coils are still leaking charge probably.

Camshaft position sensor can be tested:

 

yeah . sensor is good.. at the price of the coils it looks like id do better by replacing th complete engine. a place not far from me has one for less than double the price of the coils. but other than the coils what else could be causing the engine to shake. fuel pressure regulator fuel pump. cia. i dont know. i seems as though it has to struggle to idle but when it gets there its fine. go wot and when its released it will drop low (200rpm) and regain or die. might shake might not. give gas gradually and it will shake everytime. whole engine

 

You are not guaranteed quality parts in a replacement engine anyway, better fight with the issues you know than the ones you dont.

From everything you described in the multiple threads, it sounds like the coils are causing all the problems, and you already said they are all very bad.

If you plan on using this car, just bite the bullet and get new coils. I think it will solve all your engine issues, most people with VEs have replaced a few or all coils at some point during the lifetime of the engine. I've replaced like 4 or 5 myself. And if you're looking at an engine costing less than double the price of coils, you'll save money anyway.

Personally I would not get used coils unless the price is right to risk it, because you cant count on them lasting too long unless you're lucky.

 

Oh and another idea, see if there is a VE owner in your area who has good coils in their engine and would be willing to come out for a bit. Swap in the coils from their engine to see the difference.

 

no ve's around. only vg's how about a 4th gen coils with 3rd gen tips?

 

I highly doubt it.

 

ahh. o well

 

i need coils!!!!!! anyone?

 

what about egr. could cause any problems

 

egr valve on mine is bad or leaking or who knows. My problems seem very similar to yours but yours seem alot more severe.

 

Please replace the coils with good units before going any further on this issue,they are obviously the main source of your stumbling problems...

Every cracked coil i've had has done the same thing= Idled ok,but stumbled/missed upon accelaration...

 

mooze- contact Matt and see if he has a set you can test with.

 

today i was bored so i took some rear coils and stuck them in the front to c what would happen. well guess what. did the same thing. very stable at idle (most of the time) but with slow accel or put it in gear and give it a little gas and again its out. im still waiting on front coils to come in but ill prob go to a yard tomorrow and see if i can find some to doodle with.

 

today is the day that it fails again. tried new coils today and guess what. still shaking at about 4k. running a bit rich. i get black smoke from exhaust if revved up a funny vapor. when i unplug the rear middle coil it doesnt seem to make much of a difference. can i run this thing with the plenum off to test injectors? i dont have a lil computer tester guy so i cant run for codes right now. any advice?

 

Nope, that wont work. Are all the coils new or just the front ones? If its running rich there is probably an injector stuck open or the coil/spark plug has a problem and the fuel is just coming out, you can test the rear injectors from their harness, I'll post the diagram in a little bit. Also, swap two of the rear coils and see if the problem goes to another cylinder or stays there.

Black smoke? Not sure there. You didnt fill it with diesel, right?

Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but you cant pull codes without having the specific Nissan tester.

 

all. what what else could cause it to shake and sputter?

 

 

Geeze, any one of a dozen or so sensors, a bad computer, bad plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotor, fuel pump, pressure regulator, dirty filter, and probably a hundred other things that I'm not thinking of just now.

 

He has an SE... wires, distributor cap, rotor dont apply.

If the injectors are stock, some may be bad by this age and at whatever milage its at. They are easy to test though so its not all bad. It does suck to spend so much on parts just to find something else not working, but hey... c'est la vie. At least when its finally fixed, the car should run very well instead of just "better".

 

you can pull the codes by turning the screw on the ECU as described in the link in the stickies.
Personally I've never done it, but that's because I've never needed it on my 3rd gens. All my other nissans, I've needed to pull codes on though Good thing I have access to a scanner Now to buy my own

 

im getting code 33 (o2 sensor) could this be the cause

 

researched that wont do it. looks like im stuck

 

rule 1 in auto repair: fix the obvious
if it's clearly bad fix it.

 

if you referring to coils thats fixed

 

You've checked the injectors then?

 

havnt had a chance to get the meter to them. car is still running rich and smoke is now a light white. i did have the harness unplugged and that made a big difference. now when i give it gas and it goes back 2 idle it drops low(300-500) then returns. sometimes it begins to search. keeps going up and down