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no power again but its not knock sensor this time

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Old 07-02-2007, 07:39 AM
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Originally Posted by mooze
if you referring to coils thats fixed
I was referring to the o2 sensor. If it sets a code check the wiring and if that's all good replace the sensor.
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Old 07-02-2007, 10:23 AM
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injector readings came out fine. 12 and 13. blah blah . o2 sensor fixed. i think. there was a broken wire. fixed and code no longer appears. now just getting 55. so whats next forgot to mention if the engine dies and i try to restart it seems to not catch its idle and dies again. i have to give it a little gas and somewhat level it off myself
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Old 07-02-2007, 10:40 AM
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Go after the vacuum lines with a critical ear.
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Old 07-02-2007, 11:06 AM
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Mooze:

I think this issue with your car has come down to one thing..Mechanical inexperience on your part..

Do not take this the wrong way as it is not intended to flame or gripe at you..


I Assume you done the k/s sensor replacement job yourself(correct me if i'm wrong),i believe you may have done something wrong in the process of the reintallation of the related parts after the k/s sensor job..

A few questions now..

1. did you replace the gaskets on the lower intake/plenum with new gaskets,or did you use gasket maker goop?(possible major intake manifold leak)

2. Did you reuse or replace the numerous vacuum lines on the intake plenum prior to reinstallation of the plenum(possible vacuum leak)

3. Do you have any corrosion(green looking crap) on your sensor/injector connections?

4. Does your car run/idle ok after unplugging the maf sensor?(be reminded your car will not rev over 2500rpm with it unplugged)


If you are close to the ashville,nc area,i will be in that area at the end of the week(thursday/friday) i will be glad to take a look at your car free of charge as long as you are close to this area.PM me if so..
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Old 07-02-2007, 11:11 AM
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Originally Posted by MyGreenMax94
Mooze:

I think this issue with your car has come down to one thing..Mechanical inexperience on your part..

Do not take this the wrong way as it is not intended to flame or gripe at you..


I Assume you done the k/s sensor replacement job yourself(correct me if i'm wrong),i believe you may have done something wrong in the process of the reintallation of the related parts after the k/s sensor job..

A few questions now..

1. did you replace the gaskets on the lower intake/plenum with new gaskets,or did you use gasket maker goop?(possible major intake manifold leak)

2. Did you reuse or replace the numerous vacuum lines on the intake plenum prior to reinstallation of the plenum(possible vacuum leak)

3. Do you have any corrosion(green looking crap) on your sensor/injector connections?

4. Does your car run/idle ok after unplugging the maf sensor?(be reminded your car will not rev over 2500rpm with it unplugged)


If you are close to the ashville,nc area,i will be in that area at the end of the week(thursday/friday) i will be glad to take a look at your car free of charge as long as you are close to this area.PM me if so..
1. all new gaskets
2. all new vacuum lines
3. k/s had corrosion but i replaced and replaced harness so no corrosion
4. car dies after maf sensor is unplugged while running but will run if unplugged prior to cranking. not sure how far it goes up after being unplugged
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Old 07-02-2007, 11:18 AM
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Originally Posted by mooze
1. all new gaskets
2. all new vacuum lines
3. k/s had corrosion but i replaced and replaced harness so no corrosion
4. car dies after maf sensor is unplugged while running but will run if unplugged prior to cranking. not sure how far it goes up after being unplugged
The engine dying after the maf is unplugged while the engine is running is normal for a good maf..


Did you torque the bolts on the lower intake manifold/plenum to fsm specs?
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Old 07-02-2007, 11:21 AM
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well i was at work when intake manifold was put down so im not sure my dad did it for me. im about 240 miles from asheville and my car is not close to getting on road
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Old 07-02-2007, 11:31 AM
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If the intake manifold or plenum are leaking, you will hear it.

All the vacuum lines were replaced? Even the blow-by hoses, even the rear one where the rear plenum bolts attach? That one has a 90-degree bend that can crack and you may not see it.

Maybe the "vacuum tap for the heater water valve" is reversed?
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Old 07-02-2007, 11:33 AM
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Originally Posted by mooze
well i was at work when intake manifold was put down so im not sure my dad did it for me. im about 240 miles from asheville and my car is not close to getting on road
What part/parts of the k/s sensor job did you do?
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Old 07-02-2007, 11:39 AM
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i placed and torqued sensor/ placed manifold gaskets /throttle body gaskets /throttle body placement / vacuum lines/ plenum gasket/ torquing of plenum. fuel rails im not sure what else. in the process we changed exhaust manifold studs on both ends and gaskets k/n sensor and oil pressure thingy. im about to start tearing back down if u dont have anything else
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Old 07-02-2007, 11:47 AM
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Originally Posted by mooze
i placed and torqued sensor/ placed manifold gaskets /throttle body gaskets /throttle body placement / vacuum lines/ plenum gasket/ torquing of plenum. fuel rails im not sure what else. in the process we changed exhaust manifold studs on both ends and gaskets k/n sensor and oil pressure thingy. im about to start tearing back down if u dont have anything else

Did you check the ohm specs on the rear injectors?(requires removing the intake plenum)
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Old 07-02-2007, 11:47 AM
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if there's a leak how will i know?
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Old 07-02-2007, 11:50 AM
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if there's a leak how will i know?
Sound of rushing air, like when you let a tire out but may be more subdued.

(requires removing the intake plenum)
from post #31:
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Old 07-02-2007, 11:54 AM
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Originally Posted by MyGreenMax94
Did you check the ohm specs on the rear injectors?(requires removing the intake plenum)
injectors read fine. i cant really tell aobut the air leak thing cuz my cia sounds like its sucking the whole world. is that normal?
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Old 07-02-2007, 11:57 AM
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Originally Posted by mooze
injectors read fine. i cant really tell aobut the air leak thing cuz my cia sounds like its sucking the whole world. is that normal?
No, that sounds bad. Try to isolate where the world is going into.
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Old 07-02-2007, 12:00 PM
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Originally Posted by mikekantor
from post #31:

I done this test when i had a intermitent dead miss,i couldn't come up with any useable numbers..But after removing the rear injectors i took a reading directly from the injector in question(#1) and found it to be waaay out of spec(infinite)..

So i stand by my "test them directly" method..
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Old 07-02-2007, 12:06 PM
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http://s6.photobucket.com/albums/y21...=VIDEO_024.flv
there is link to intake the static noise is at idle just intake not engine
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Old 07-02-2007, 12:07 PM
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Originally Posted by MyGreenMax94
I done this test when i had a intermitent dead miss,i couldn't come up with any useable numbers..But after removing the rear injectors i took a reading directly from the injector in question(#1) and found it to be waaay out of spec(infinite)..

So i stand by my "test them directly" method..
Yeah you're right that is a better method, I suppose this can be a substitute sometimes though. With an intermittent miss its hard to spot. When I've had rears fail, I just tried to isolate the right one by swapping the coils around in combination with pluging/unplugging injectors and coils.

Funny thing is that even if you pull the plenum and they all end up good, you'll have a new injector and put it away for next time... because sooner or later another will fail.
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Old 07-02-2007, 12:08 PM
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Originally Posted by mikekantor
No, that sounds bad. Try to isolate where the world is going into.

A cai on a ve makes alot of noise under the hood(sounds like a vaccum cleaner),so diagnosing an intake vacuum leak is quite difficult..
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Old 07-02-2007, 12:10 PM
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i guess its time to tear it back down.
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Old 07-02-2007, 12:11 PM
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You have a CAI? Re-attach the stock intake for a little while then, dont even have to bolt it down.
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Old 07-02-2007, 12:14 PM
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Originally Posted by mooze
http://s6.photobucket.com/albums/y21...=VIDEO_024.flv
there is link to intake the static noise is at idle just intake not engine
Dude,that is not a cai,it is an HAI(hot air intake) IMHO these setups are completely useless as a performance mod(all they do is suck in hot air from the engine bay),your stock setup will give you more power vs the hai setup..

Also,the noise from your setup is two fold of a true cai setup(filter in the fender well)

Get rid of it..
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Old 07-02-2007, 12:22 PM
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Originally Posted by MyGreenMax94
Dude,that is not a cai,it is an HAI(hot air intake) IMHO these setups are completely useless as a performance mod(all they do is suck in hot air from the engine bay),your stock setup will give you more power vs the hai setup..

Also,the noise from your setup is two fold of a true cai setup(filter in the fender well)

Get rid of it..
i have the other pipe off. i only did because it invisible otherwise and i thought it was the problem one time
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Old 07-02-2007, 12:51 PM
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Well anyhoo,this internet mechanic stuff can only go so far,so if you want me to look at it,let me know..(just pay my gas from ashville )
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Old 07-02-2007, 12:51 PM
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anyone think grounds would do this?
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Old 07-02-2007, 12:55 PM
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Originally Posted by mooze
anyone think grounds would do this?
Possible..Do you think the engine/injector grounds are not working/sub-standard?
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Old 07-02-2007, 01:08 PM
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Originally Posted by MyGreenMax94
Possible..Do you think the engine/injector grounds are not working/sub-standard?
not sure as you can c i sprayed my plenum. going to sand grounds down and c
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Old 07-02-2007, 01:40 PM
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NAH. i unplugged all 3 rear coils and it was way better. wouldnt idle but didnt shake at high rpms
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Old 07-02-2007, 02:00 PM
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I suggest MGM94 get down there as soon as he can.
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Old 07-03-2007, 10:27 AM
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DOWN TO THE FUEL RAILS. checked each injector individually and all tested good.
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Old 07-03-2007, 12:34 PM
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This should have been mentioned before, because it may not be obvious:

When you put the plenum back on, first tighten the vertical bolts lightly, then tighten the horizontal rear bolts lightly, just to make sure they all line up. Then torque all the vertical bolts, and only after that tighten the rear bolts.
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Old 07-03-2007, 12:53 PM
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Also,it would be a good idea to tighten the bolts on the upper and lower intake manifolds according to fsm specs..



Torque specs are as follows

lower intake bolts = 14 ft/lbs(nuts on each end = 20 ft/lbs)

upper intake manifold collector = 16 ft/lbs(rear bolts=15 ft/lbs)
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Old 07-03-2007, 01:02 PM
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? i have a torn insulator and the front insulators did not lift with the injectors as though they were not secured. i havnt gone past this point because i had to go to work. anyone thing this could be part of problem. another ? there is a metal hose that come frrom the bypass hose into the valve covers. the one under the plenum didnt seem to be all the way in. i didnt install that hose so im not sure
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Old 07-03-2007, 01:04 PM
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Thats a blow-by hose, and its sort-of a very big deal

Those insulators dont always stay on when you lift the rails... why did you remove the rails? Anyway, put new ones in their place.
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Old 07-03-2007, 01:17 PM
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Originally Posted by mikekantor
Thats a blow-by hose
yeah thats the thing i ment. i didnt know where the problem was exactly so i was going to work my way down to where i started
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Old 07-03-2007, 01:22 PM
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That one and the one from the front valve cover should be securely connected to the tube that enters the intake just before the throttle.
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Old 07-03-2007, 01:23 PM
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Replace all the injector insulators with new,available at your local dealership,but they may have to order them..
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Old 07-03-2007, 01:28 PM
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Actually the ve will run/idle just fine with the blow by hoses disconnected..
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Old 07-03-2007, 11:10 PM
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turned out to b camshaft position sensor
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Old 07-04-2007, 03:26 AM
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So it's fixed?
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Quick Reply: no power again but its not knock sensor this time



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