Cylinders 1 and 6 not working
#1
Cylinders 1 and 6 not working
So my mechanic is telling me that Cylinders 1 and 6 are not working. Mechenically he says they are fine but it appears that it is something electrical. He was unable to determine the actual cause of this issue and I am wondering if anyone here can help.
My sympoms are the following.
1. Car shakes when idle or acclerating or going less then 25 miles per hour.
2. Car has hard timne climbing hills.
3. Car runs smooth once at 55-65, though has a hard time getting above GM without getting huge RPMs.
Any ideas?
My sympoms are the following.
1. Car shakes when idle or acclerating or going less then 25 miles per hour.
2. Car has hard timne climbing hills.
3. Car runs smooth once at 55-65, though has a hard time getting above GM without getting huge RPMs.
Any ideas?
#3
You didn't mention if you had an SE or GXE. If a GXE, I'd replace the spark plug wires, rotor and cap. You can check the resistance of the current wires first, but if your mechanic says it's electrical, I'd check/replace these first.
#4
Originally Posted by 93SCMax
You didn't mention if you had an SE or GXE. If a GXE, I'd replace the spark plug wires, rotor and cap. You can the check resistance of the current wires first, but if your mechanic says it's electrical, I'd check/replace these first.
But yeah like above, probably injectors, maybe coils if it is a VE, sometimes its both.
#7
This is a 1992 SE ***
*** The engine type in the owners manual says it is a VE30DE which Wikipedia says is an SE Link: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nissan_VE_engine
They are getting a spark
Is it easy to change the fuel injectors? Is there somewhere online to show how this is done and what the prep is?
*** The engine type in the owners manual says it is a VE30DE which Wikipedia says is an SE Link: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nissan_VE_engine
They are getting a spark
Is it easy to change the fuel injectors? Is there somewhere online to show how this is done and what the prep is?
#9
Originally Posted by cparker5
This is a 1992 SE ***
*** The engine type in the owners manual says it is a VE30DE which Wikipedia says is an SE Link: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nissan_VE_engine
They are getting a spark
Is it easy to change the fuel injectors? Is there somewhere online to show how this is done and what the prep is?
*** The engine type in the owners manual says it is a VE30DE which Wikipedia says is an SE Link: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nissan_VE_engine
They are getting a spark
Is it easy to change the fuel injectors? Is there somewhere online to show how this is done and what the prep is?
some of them can be done in 15 minutes.
some take longer because you need to pull the intake plenum.
I do suggest doing all 6 new, but if budget is tight and it's only a rear 1, do all 3 rears. saves time later. the fronts can be done 1 at a time.
just don't buy remans/rebuilt/cleaned injectors.
#10
Originally Posted by internetautomar
it's pretty easy to do if you have patience.
some of them can be done in 15 minutes.
some take longer because you need to pull the intake plenum.
I do suggest doing all 6 new, but if budget is tight and it's only a rear 1, do all 3 rears. saves time later. the fronts can be done 1 at a time.
just don't buy remans/rebuilt/cleaned injectors.
some of them can be done in 15 minutes.
some take longer because you need to pull the intake plenum.
I do suggest doing all 6 new, but if budget is tight and it's only a rear 1, do all 3 rears. saves time later. the fronts can be done 1 at a time.
just don't buy remans/rebuilt/cleaned injectors.
BTW, you'll be getting PM from me soon for the same issue.
#11
Originally Posted by internetautomar
it's pretty easy to do if you have patience.
some of them can be done in 15 minutes.
some take longer because you need to pull the intake plenum.
I do suggest doing all 6 new, but if budget is tight and it's only a rear 1, do all 3 rears. saves time later. the fronts can be done 1 at a time.
just don't buy remans/rebuilt/cleaned injectors.
some of them can be done in 15 minutes.
some take longer because you need to pull the intake plenum.
I do suggest doing all 6 new, but if budget is tight and it's only a rear 1, do all 3 rears. saves time later. the fronts can be done 1 at a time.
just don't buy remans/rebuilt/cleaned injectors.
Gp-Sorensen / Fuel Injector for a 1992 Nissan/Datsun Maxima SE
Part Number: 800-1149N
Weight: 0.2 lbs.
Warranty: 1 YR
Note: New
O.E.M. #16600-96E00
Price: $74
Beck Arnley / Fuel Injector for a 1992 Nissan/Datsun Maxima SE
Part Number: 155-0091
Weight: 0.2 lbs.
Warranty: 3 MO
Price: $68
SHould I replace the orings to for $10 per injector, or not?
Thanks
#14
I don't like autozone, I have found that their parts are very substandard in most cases.
for a local place, I'd suggest a NAPA, or a "Corning" auto parts.
Find a smallish local place they will usually have the most knowledgeable parts people, and will try harder to find the part.
for a local place, I'd suggest a NAPA, or a "Corning" auto parts.
Find a smallish local place they will usually have the most knowledgeable parts people, and will try harder to find the part.
#15
I have the same problem with cylinder 1. I unplugged the spark plug wire from the distributor saw a spark, and did not see a drop in engine speed. So i guess its the fuel injector. But the problem is, while waiting for the new fuel injector that i bought online, the engine fixed itself for a day and was working perfectly. Then the next day, same problem. I'm guessing it was a sticking injector. Anyone know if its possible that an injector can repair itself one day and break the other???? This happened this whole week, one day it runs great, next day runs like crap. Thanks
#16
Originally Posted by trunks333
I have the same problem with cylinder 1. I unplugged the spark plug wire from the distributor saw a spark, and did not see a drop in engine speed. So i guess its the fuel injector. But the problem is, while waiting for the new fuel injector that i bought online, the engine fixed itself for a day and was working perfectly. Then the next day, same problem. I'm guessing it was a sticking injector. Anyone know if its possible that an injector can repair itself one day and break the other???? This happened this whole week, one day it runs great, next day runs like crap. Thanks
#17
Originally Posted by internetautomar
I don't like autozone, I have found that their parts are very substandard in most cases.
for a local place, I'd suggest a NAPA, or a "Corning" auto parts.
Find a smallish local place they will usually have the most knowledgeable parts people, and will try harder to find the part.
for a local place, I'd suggest a NAPA, or a "Corning" auto parts.
Find a smallish local place they will usually have the most knowledgeable parts people, and will try harder to find the part.
#18
Originally Posted by cparker5
Te price for an injector at NAPA is twice as much as AutoZone. Is AutoZone that bad where it is worth paying twice the price for new parts?
the injector it's a tough call because i don't know what brand is in the box.
#21
Originally Posted by Machine
Why? Just wondering for my own edification...
so even though the rebuilder tested them, they still fail a bit later on electrically.
I replaced 5 injectors 7 times on my first VE. the last 3 were brand new.
#22
Before you go through the trouble and expense of replacing a dead injector, make sure that the electrical contacts are clean. My 92 GXE (VG) lost a cylinder intermittently (would run bad for a while, then great for a while randomly) and the contacts for that injector needed cleaning. A little time with a small strip of sandpaper wrapped around the end of a small screwdriver and all is well now.
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