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air bag component location?

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Old 08-29-2007, 06:53 PM
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air bag component location?

my chilton's book has no listing of any SRS components...such as sensors and such....can anyone with an FSM help me out? my airbag has been disabled for a time now (over a year) and i wanna go ahead and remove all sensors, wiring, modules, etc.

i know some people frown on this, but oh well. I plan on changing my steering wheel to one with no airbag or cruise controls.

pictures would help as well. thanks in advance!
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Old 08-29-2007, 07:00 PM
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Originally Posted by ustfdes
my chilton's book has no listing of any SRS components...such as sensors and such....can anyone with an FSM help me out? my airbag has been disabled for a time now (over a year) and i wanna go ahead and remove all sensors, wiring, modules, etc.

i know some people frown on this, but oh well. I plan on changing my steering wheel to one with no airbag or cruise controls.

pictures would help as well. thanks in advance!
Send a pm... .
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Old 08-29-2007, 08:21 PM
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the sensor is under your front bumper. about 2" square.
airbag computer is under the center console/dash area- directly below the stereo IIRC.

airbag wiring is all encased in yellow wrap. start at the steering column with the airbag and you can chase it down.

but realize some of the cruise control stuff goes through the airbag wiring too. be careful with what you cut.
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Old 08-29-2007, 08:38 PM
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removed cruise control earlier in the day. as long as that's all that's in the wiring, then i'm good. i guess?
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Old 08-29-2007, 08:42 PM
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Originally Posted by ustfdes
removed cruise control earlier in the day. as long as that's all that's in the wiring, then i'm good. i guess?
why'd you remove CC? weight reduction...?
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Old 08-29-2007, 08:44 PM
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wasn't working anyway.....and weight reduction/engine bay reclamation
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Old 08-29-2007, 09:08 PM
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Hate to break it to you, but Maxima isn't a race car. Why not just fix the cruise control instead? And why remove something that might end up saving your ***?
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Old 08-29-2007, 09:17 PM
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the maxima is what you make it, i never intended it to be a 'race car' but i do enjoy my power and my comfort.. why not fix my CC? because i never used it anyways, so why let it clutter my engine bay? I don't drive in such a way to allow much use for cruise, and the traffic in nashville isn't very cruise friendly either.

as i said, there are those that do not like the thought of me removing my air bags, but they are just that. my airbags. I can understand the 'controversy' surrouding this, and the safety concerns (that are much appreciated might i add) but i would rather ask on here and be criticized, than to do it without assistance and mess something up.

I'll attempt it with or without help, but the former seems the best way to go.

also, with the accidents i had in my teens (hitting a deer at 45, clipping a tree at 25 causing a roll, and flipping sideways at 75) there was never any air bag involvement....so, why should i expect them to work in a pinch anyway?
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Old 08-29-2007, 09:19 PM
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You need a security torx socket to remove the component under the stereo, have fun with that one...
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Old 08-29-2007, 09:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Deridex
Hate to break it to you, but Maxima isn't a race car. Why not just fix the cruise control instead? And why remove something that might end up saving your ***?
Here is a quick one though:
http://www.nwpengineering.com/maxima.html
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Old 08-29-2007, 09:22 PM
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oh i'll get it out, trust me might be a b**** but i'm dedicated.
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Old 08-29-2007, 09:22 PM
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Originally Posted by mikekantor
Here is a quick one though:
http://www.nwpengineering.com/maxima.html

good point ;x
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Old 08-29-2007, 09:25 PM
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Originally Posted by capedcadaver
Send a pm... .

Last edited by MyGreenMax94 : Yesterday at 10:04 PM.
oops. i tried to write it out, you know, so it wouldn't be... a real URL..
sorry about that.
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Old 08-30-2007, 06:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Deridex
Hate to break it to you, but Maxima isn't a race car. Why not just fix the cruise control instead? And why remove something that might end up saving your ***?
You shouldn't speak unless you know what you're talking about.
Autocrossing..
http://blehmco.com/pics/track_pics/a...222878_std.jpg
http://blehmco.com/pics/track_pics/a...222803_std.jpg

Playing at the road course..
http://blehmco.com/pics/track_pics/h...3/im000406.jpg
http://blehmco.com/pics/track_pics/h.../hallett10.jpg
http://blehmco.com/pics/track_pics/h...4/188%2008.jpg
http://blehmco.com/pics/track_pics/h...4/188%2009.jpg
http://blehmco.com/pics/track_pics/t...e/100_0764.JPG

Videos of me running down various "faster" cars.
http://blehmco.com/movies/me_at_tws_1.wmv

No, it's not a race car. But it can and will hold its own on the track. Let the guy do what he wants to it.
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Old 08-30-2007, 08:57 AM
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matt, i've been ogling your site for a while now.....you.have.cool.stuff. and, i need to get me some of that cool stuff.

thanks for smashing his point. i try not to get too aggressive on here anymore, after a failry recent incident. ;x

so i'm basically guessing that by removing the sensors and computer module and stuff, i will have eliminated the SRS system totally? of course i'll remove the wiring too, once i'm sure that the only thing in the yellow wiring is SRS component wiring....and possibly cruise control.


edit: of course also removing the steering wheel and maybe the fuses/relays that are connected.
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Old 08-30-2007, 09:21 AM
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Yes it should be pretty simple as the maxima's srs system is pretty primitive compared to the new ones any way.

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Old 08-30-2007, 11:09 AM
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right.
the 3rd gen Maxima has a 1st gen SRS system.
if it's in yellow wires, you can pretty much throw it away.
It doesn't affect the ECU or any other electrical system-- unless you leave loose power wires dangling around and they short out against the body. if you're removing all of the wiring, that shouldn't be an issue. just be sure to cap over/tape off any wires ends/connectors that you leave open so that water can't get in there and mess up anything.
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Old 08-30-2007, 05:23 PM
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3rd gen has a 2nd gen SRS in reality.
the gens that are claimed for SRS systems are inaccurate.
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Old 08-30-2007, 07:10 PM
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oh yeah.. 1st gen SRS was the automatic seatbelts.
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Old 08-30-2007, 07:15 PM
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oh, another off topic question, didn't feel like starting a new thread....matt, intern.....if i remove my windshield washer reservoir, and relocate the overflow tank for my radiator into that space.....is it gonna be too low to work properly with my radiator? or will it be fine, working off heat?
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Old 08-30-2007, 08:31 PM
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I couldn't say for sure whether it will work or not.
I would think it would be fine, but realize there's a pressure (vacuum) difference to take into account because the tank will be lower than before and the hose will be longer. this makes it harder to bleed the air bubbles out of the tube, as well as having to have greater suction effect in order to suck the reservior's fluid back up into the radiator when it cools down and contracts.
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Old 08-30-2007, 08:49 PM
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well as long as the end of the tube in the reservoir is constantly submerged, it shouldn't have a problem sucking it up, because its a fairly powerful vacuum effect.....maybe if i used a smaller inside diameter hose, the fluid weight would be less and easier to suck up.
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Old 08-30-2007, 08:50 PM
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we'll find out i guess one day.
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Old 08-31-2007, 10:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Matt93SE
oh yeah.. 1st gen SRS was the automatic seatbelts.
actually airbags came first.
just before most people in this forum were born
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Old 08-31-2007, 11:32 AM
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Originally Posted by ustfdes
well as long as the end of the tube in the reservoir is constantly submerged...
Even if it is not submerged, the vacuum will take up fluid from any height as long as the gravitational pull on the liquid in the hose is less than that force, and thats a safe bet. Once it is submerged, the only difference is that air pressure acts on the surface of the fluid in the reservoir, as opposed to the end of the hose.

An analogy can be made with a cup (reservoir), straw (hose), and your mouth (radiator). If you take up water into the straw, then remove it from the cup, you can move it up and down within the straw using your mouth's vacuum, and none will drop out as long as you keep it there. If the straw is kept submerged, the effect is the same.

Now imagine if the straw is a mile long, no way will your mouth be able to create a vacuum to hold that much mass from falling. Similarly, a radiator might be crushed by the air outside it if you place the reservoir a mile under the car and fill the hose. Thankfully your target is not nearly that low. Surface tension plays a role in this though, if the hose diameter is too large then it will let bubbles travel up and fluid would drop out.
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Old 08-31-2007, 01:09 PM
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lol good analogy....my point of submersion was that as long as it gets WATER through said vacuum, and not AIR, it should suck....and without that slurping noise most of my ex's have made. :0

water weighs 0.036127 lbs per cubic inch..... if the vacuum of the radiator isnt enough to pull the weight of the water in the hose, then this would fail, however, if it IS enough, then it will work fine. Also, if it were to fail with the oem hose, the solution would be a smaller inside diameter hose to hold less water, thus less weight.

i seriously doubt though that the vacuum of the radiator caused by the cooling of the raidator would NOT be strong enough to accomplish an extra foot or two of hose.
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Old 08-31-2007, 01:33 PM
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Originally Posted by ustfdes
water weighs 0.036127 lbs per cubic inch
^^^ thats what SI units are for

1 g/cm^3 or 1 g/ml

But yeah, I was just trying to present the extreme.
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Old 08-31-2007, 01:42 PM
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yeah yeah, whatever. i just learner about the triple point of water.....that's a weird condition to ACTUALLY exist in reality. the point in which water can coexist in liquid, solid, and gas form simultaneously. (relating to temperature and pressure....weird.)

so we go to find out the pressure of the vacuum of the radiator.....then find out how many mL in the hose when full...and find out which wins. wee....wish i had the time and patience for that. ;x
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Old 08-31-2007, 02:04 PM
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Originally Posted by ustfdes
so we go to find out the pressure of the vacuum of the radiator.....then find out how many mL in the hose when full...and find out which wins. wee....wish i had the time and patience for that. ;x
Its less about the vacuum, and more about which takes less force: (1) moving water up or (2) crushing the radiator or hoses to reduce volume. Your relocation plan will work just fine.

Triple point is neat, but since it is a point, as opposed to a region, I dont think matter ever really exists in that state, just around it where two of the three states dominate. Sublimation would be interesting to see though: solid evaporates into gas directly without the liquid phase. Have you covered Bose-Einstein condensates yet? Thats when things get freaky.
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Old 08-31-2007, 02:20 PM
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haha covered? lol, i'm about to go back to school for architectual engineering man, that doesn't have much to do with quantum physics....although science and physics do interest me. it's what drives inventions and discoveries such as electrochromism, and all the other 'chromisms'.

lol i could go off on things scientific that interest me, but i won't. lol maybe someday in the OT forum x;

to get back on topic though....if the drivers front fender slot is empty (opposite of washer bottle), i may relocate my battery if it seems possible.
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Old 08-31-2007, 02:51 PM
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Originally Posted by ustfdes
haha covered? lol, i'm about to go back to school for architectual engineering man, that doesn't have much to do with quantum physics....although science and physics do interest me. it's what drives inventions and discoveries such as electrochromism, and all the other 'chromisms'.

lol i could go off on things scientific that interest me, but i won't. lol maybe someday in the OT forum x;

to get back on topic though....if the drivers front fender slot is empty (opposite of washer bottle), i may relocate my battery if it seems possible.
i want to relocate my battery to allow for a better positioning of the intake. so the airflow will not be blocked by the battery, you know?
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Old 08-31-2007, 02:56 PM
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Originally Posted by ustfdes
to get back on topic though....if the drivers front fender slot is empty (opposite of washer bottle), i may relocate my battery if it seems possible.
Last time I checked it was empty, although right now my car probably has enough twigs for a nest there. Are you making room for something spinny and loud?

If relocating, I would move it to the trunk. Otherwise you will make changing the battery a far larger undertaking than it was intended to be.
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Old 08-31-2007, 03:56 PM
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caped: that's one of the reasons for my relocation idea....airflow, and also much needed engine bay space....when i check it out in a little bit i'll let you know what i find

mike: the only difference in the left and right positions we're speaking of is the way the brackets are set up, and maybe the way the little plastic shield is placed.....if i can get a battery in there, i can make a way to make battery changing fairly easy. and as for the spinny and loud question......not just yet, but there are plans for the future.....just gotta get everything else running right first (exhaust studs, timing chain tensioner/timing chain, VTC rebuild.....and basically new hardware for the engine (ferrea racing components valves and springs, custom ground cams, pistons, lifters, and everything)....all forged, all lightweight, all shiny new <3
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Old 08-31-2007, 03:59 PM
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well hell, one of the main reasons i wanted to keep the body up front was to keep the weight in rear down so if i install a bigger system in there.....but i just remembered, i have a 26lb LEAD block used in radiation shielding back there, along with TWO 25FT towing chains.......so theres 100+ lbs right there. lol.....
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