ColombianMax

iTrader: (7)

So I wanted to get codes from my ECU a while back and decided to remove the plastic cover and flip the **** on the ECU to get codes. Ever since then my car seems to be somewhat sluggish (compared to my GFs Max) and my MPG went down to 9mpg city from 19mpg city. Is there a way I can get my car back to normal?

Oh another thing that may help you guys with my prob: When I'm accelerating and let go of the accelerator the car immediately slows down as it were on 2nd gear or something...not toooo noticeable as it would feel like when down shifting on a 5spd but you can still tell.

Hope you guys can help! Thanks in advanced

redwood_usa

iTrader: (4)

disconnect battery for 1/2 hr and test again. Make sure you flipped the **** back correctly. Check to make sure your hand brake is down all the way

ColombianMax

iTrader: (7)

I did the 1/2 hour thing but it did nothing, I did mess with the **** a lil more and it improved mpg a but but still lacking power. I dont remember exact position prior to any testing, I didnt expect it to be like this. I thought it was just turn once to diagnose and turn back but its a spin-freely type of ****. Oh and for the 1/2 hour thing, I believe its more like 24 hours according to FSM IIRC.

As for the e brake, my brakes on all 4 wheels are fairly new and I jacked up my car at work today to tighten fog lights and went ahead and inspected the 4 corners. That engine braking feeling sure isnt the ebrake.

Thanks for le input but I shall await for more

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

is it actually downshifting? or just feels like it but RPM still indicates 4th gear.

ColombianMax

iTrader: (7)

It doesnt actually downshift...this normally occurs at low speeds after taking off (I know its not an airplane lol) and its just the RPM needle that drops to 1,000 RPMs almost right away after taking my foot off the pedal

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

sticky wheel bearings, cv joint? something that might slow your car down unnaturally?

on level ground with nobody behind you, accelerate to 45, hold that speed for a couple seconds, lift off the pedal. let it slow to 35, go back to 45 and hold for a few seconds, then toss it in N and see if it slows down just as quickly. If it slows down quickly in N, then you have to have something with your tire pressure or bearings or cv joints or something that is slowing you down.

Greeny

iTrader: (43)

Sounds like you inadvertantly activated the radio interferometer,this usually causes centripetal acceleration in the accretion disk..This condition will also cause abnormal wear of the Fraunhofer lines causing your radio recombination line emissions to be waaay off kilter.

If you continue to drive the car like this,you will cause inverse beta decay in your secular parallax recalibrator,not good. The collisional de-excitation of the fraunhofer lines will also throw your angular momentum off,also not good.

Or you could have a stuck caliper..

ColombianMax

iTrader: (7)

cv joints are new, all bearings are new. nothing is causing drag on the car BUT the engine itself. Everything is smooth suspension-wise. Tire pressure is 33psi all around and I just got rebalancing/rotation as they reached 6k miles since being installed.


Hahahaha!! effin greeny i swear! nah there are only two calipers on my car and they're both in great shape not to mention that one of em only has a couple K miles on em. No pullin to sides while brakin, no abnormal pad wear. simply even, smooth braking. Also just to prove that its none of the things caped and mentioned the car will not slow down when let go of accel if the car is on Neutral. thanks for your continued support.

I expect the big smart knowledgeable guys to chime in as well as they never chime in on my threads for some reason.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

is that "and" supposed to say "had"?

ColombianMax

iTrader: (7)

as a matter of fact I was gonna say "..and greeny" but I'm sure you understood it and I'm sure I could go through a couple of your posts to find some typos too lol

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

well i wasn't trying to pick you apart. I just wasn't sure if the two ideas were connected as i thought they were, or if you had meant to say something different.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

can you take us a video of the tach/speedo? you say it drops to 1000, eh? I know that the TC will allow RPM to vary quite a bit, and being in drive, the car will slow down faster than it will in N, for ANY a/t car. Make, model, and age don't matter.

redwood_usa

iTrader: (4)

looks like you got exhaust backpressure - maybe a blocked cat ? Thats why it doesnt happen when in neutral, and when your accelerating you have less power.

ColombianMax

iTrader: (7)

I'm gonna go record a video RIGHT NOW, it wont be noticeable much in the video but I'll give it a shot.

Hey Jimbo, my Cat is a year old, I doubt its clogged. What I'm kind of trying to find out is if there's a way to get my ECU to the original settings prior to me messing with it. It ran perfect before I turned the ****.

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

to check the codes, you turn the **** on the ECU all the way clockwise until it stops, then all the way back to the other stop. you should get around 1 full turn out of it IIRC.

once you're there, you are in ECU check mode. your check engine light will blink when you turn the ignition on.

to reset the ECU and get out of this mode, turn the **** all the way clockwise and hten counterclockwise again from stop to stop.
you shoudl be done with it then.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

http://s164.photobucket.com/albums/u...t=MVI_2370.flv
that's all you need to know, if you have a 5-mode system. Greeny can tell you how to work a 2-mode system, which i believe is what is on the VE or something.

redwood_usa

iTrader: (4)

Turn the key so the ignition lights are on, but dont start the car. Then make sure the screw/**** is turned counterclockwise till it hits the internal stop. If it keeps going around then you have busted the screw. If not then shut off the ignition and restart the car again. Then disconnect the battery again for as long as you can and test the next day.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

if it is broken, make sure that the screw is aligned exactly as you see when i pull that bit off the screw in my video. If that doesn't work, turn it another 180 degrees so it's still oriented that way.

ColombianMax

iTrader: (7)

hmm, so the **** IS supposed to stop at some point huh? Mine just keeps on spinning, at least from what I noticed.

Greeny

iTrader: (43)

Sounds like new ecu time..

ColombianMax

iTrader: (7)

BLA!!!!!!!!!!!!!! NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!

So I can just get an ECU off any VG auto and it'll be plug and play without any flashing or anything of that sort?

Greeny

iTrader: (43)

Yeah,should be plug-n-play john..

ColombianMax

iTrader: (7)

Sweet, I'm going to the JY tomorrow...its Labor Day weekend 50% off EVERYTHING

Greeny

iTrader: (43)

I finally found a semi-local U-pull j-yard near me(read: Cheap),I am going down there this week sometime to check it out..