drums are the stupidest things
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Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 1,030
lord, replacing the rear drums on a gxe maxima is gotta be the worst thing ever, why doesnt nissan just put disk brakes on the gxe?!!?!? i just got done doing the rear drums on my car, and like i still messed up somewhere, because the brake pedal is spongy.. gotta find out what i did wrong, if any of you guys have any ideas just post up. ^_^
did you bleed the brakes when you got done?
what about reset the parking brake?
the parking brake can take quite a while to get correctly set again after you change the drums...... and besides that, the drums really aren't that bad to work on. they're annoying, but MUCH easier than some others I've worked on.
what about reset the parking brake?
the parking brake can take quite a while to get correctly set again after you change the drums...... and besides that, the drums really aren't that bad to work on. they're annoying, but MUCH easier than some others I've worked on.
Member
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 81
Re: Instuctions
Chilton's has a good section on this. Here's a quick & dirty version:
Jack up the rear end and position jack stands, block the front tires, remove both rear tires, release the parking brake, remove both drums. Now, on each side remove the hub cap, cotter pin, and wheel bearing lock. From here out, do one side at a time (so you can use the other side as a reference). Remove the two springs that connect the brake shoes (one across the top, one across the bottom, called "return springs"), and remove each of the shoe hold-down springs and retainers. The shoes should now be loose, except one is still hooked to the parking brake cable so just un-hook it.
Now, just put it all back together with the new pads, referring to the other side to see how everything goes together. My suggestion is to put the pad that the parking brake cable hooks to in place first (i.e. with it's hold-down spring & retainer), then connect the two pads with the return springs, put the adjusting mechanism between them, then put the second pad into place. If you put the two pads in place first, it's almost impossible to get the return springs put in.
Be sure you use a new cotter pin and torque the wheel bearing lock nut to about 137-188 ft-lbs. Once it's all together, drive in reverse and brake repeatedly to adjust the brakes.
By the way, you can get an "all in one" kit that has all of the springs for both sides (except for the one on the parking brake cable) for about $5.00 in case you mess one up.
Jack up the rear end and position jack stands, block the front tires, remove both rear tires, release the parking brake, remove both drums. Now, on each side remove the hub cap, cotter pin, and wheel bearing lock. From here out, do one side at a time (so you can use the other side as a reference). Remove the two springs that connect the brake shoes (one across the top, one across the bottom, called "return springs"), and remove each of the shoe hold-down springs and retainers. The shoes should now be loose, except one is still hooked to the parking brake cable so just un-hook it.
Now, just put it all back together with the new pads, referring to the other side to see how everything goes together. My suggestion is to put the pad that the parking brake cable hooks to in place first (i.e. with it's hold-down spring & retainer), then connect the two pads with the return springs, put the adjusting mechanism between them, then put the second pad into place. If you put the two pads in place first, it's almost impossible to get the return springs put in.
Be sure you use a new cotter pin and torque the wheel bearing lock nut to about 137-188 ft-lbs. Once it's all together, drive in reverse and brake repeatedly to adjust the brakes.
By the way, you can get an "all in one" kit that has all of the springs for both sides (except for the one on the parking brake cable) for about $5.00 in case you mess one up.
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bigfrank
4th Generation Maxima (1995-1999)
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Oct 1, 2015 12:51 PM