I am the self-proclaimed expert on 3rd Gen. Maxima stereo installs. If you have any questions, ideas, suggestions ect for me, email me or reply here.

I have the prototype install written up for the BEST car audio sound possible for our cars. I will release it in a few weeks after I finish my fiance's 91 SE.

 

interesting, i'm eager to see what you come up with.
you got a lotta people to beat tho, matt93SE(Formerly GXE)
had one helluva system and Shugarhi has a pretty nicely
put together trunk. I think mine's not too bad either.
I can't think of anybody else right at this moment, but
lets hope your system is all it plans to be

 

self-proclaimed is an understatement...and best car audio sound possible....no freaking way....esp with a pos pioneer.....

that wouldn't be able to keep up with half of the systems out there, on my rip 91se, I had custom fiberglass pods housing MB Quart 4" and 1" with a 6 1/2" in the door, MB Quart 6x9 in the rear, just for filler, turned them off in compitition, and for bass, 3 15" JL Audio W6's in a sealed box, powered by Pheonix Gold 0.5 amp, putting out 1000 watts in 4ohms rms power, and a ZX450 dilivering 75 watts in 4ohms rms by 4.....Alpine deck, this would blow you out of the water and there are pleating of others, just like this....simply put, this is the big leagues and your playing t-ball....

 

ey guys!! dont leave me out! no one compares to my 450 dollar total system, of kenwood speakers, componets up front and 2 way in the back and my one mtx 12, just stuck in my trunk. booo yea profesional audio intall right there! im own you all..lol. actually though, i am quite happy with it, and it sounds not too shabby.

 

Just for you v8killer, I finished the first kick pod housing Quart Qs today. More to come when I get finished in a few weeks and get the pictures developed.

By the way, all amp power coming from ISO teardrop glass tubes custom made up in Flint, MI by a friend of mine. The sweetest sounding amps ever made.

Big leagues...heh

 

Bose When working, is very good, without being too ghetto sounding. (boom...boom...boom)

 

sorry dOod forgot to mention you. your system was one
of the few 3rd gen stereo's that I've actually seen in
person. Andrew91SE is the other guy.
I like your stuff cuz its hella clean and you have
hella trunk space left over, plus it sounds waay better
than that stock crap that most people have, hehe.

 

Consists** sorry

 

just in case, MB quarts are one the , how should i say, "crappier" brands to buy

 

Unfortunately, my left-rear speaker does not want to work anymore. I have a Sony Xplod CDX-L550X Head Unit installed on over the original bose speaker set-up.

What I would like to do is, replace the two rear speakers first, and then after some time... replace the front speakers.

My Questions:

What size are my speakers and what size(s) do I replace them with? (both rear and front)

How do I remove the speakers?

How do I override bose amplifications?

All prompt help would be greatly appreciated!

 

Actually the MB Quart Q seriers of speakers are not "crap" as you so eloquently put it. The only rival I know of is Nakamichi's top end component systems solely due to the exquisite x-overs Nak makes.

On a 90 GXE (no bose stereo) the rear deck speakers should measure 6x9. You can buy an adapter plate to put in some rear fill 6.5s or 6x8s. The fronts should be 4x6 plate holes. You would have to look to be sure.

To bypass the factory amps you will need a need head unit with an internal amp (99.9% have one) and speakers rated @ 4ohms (99.9% after market speakers are this impedance). You cannot mix and match the old bose **** with new stuff without a severe headache, and when all is said and done it won't have been worth doing.


:New Stereo System Under Construction:

 

If I remove the rears and add some other 6x9's that I already have here and remove the bose amplifiers but leave the same front speakers, wont the front speakers blow up?

 

First thing we need to know is, do you have a factory bose system or not?

If you pushed power to the fronts and then amp'd them with the bose amps, you would probably fry the amps. Since the bose speakers are 2 ohms you can't just bypass the amps or you will fry the speakers.

But yes, you can install new 6x9s and run them off of the headunit's power and just tear out the old bose amps.

 

I defined what my system is composed of in the first post.

Head Unit - Sony Xplod CDX-L550X 52wx4
Speakers - All Stock Bose Speakers

The system sounds more/less good except that the volume is too loud. I'll turn my radio up one notch and already it's at a level where I can't carry a conversation with anyone in the car w/o having to yell. As I know, this is because of the speakers having standalone amplifiers by Bose.

Now that one speaker in the rear is gone, Can't I replace the two rears with non-bose speakers and shut out the rear amplifiers?

If I do that, will my front speakers still work the same way as they are now or will the disconnection of the rear amplifiers cause a problem for the front speakers?

 

It won't have any affect as they are totally seperate components. You really shouldn't amplify a signal that is already amplified, to easy to clip it. So yes, you can add new rear speakers, by-pass the amps, and be done with it.

Do you hear alot of distortion at high volumes?

It might be because you're about to destroy the bose amps heh. Think about replacing the fronts also, and just get rid of all the stock bose stuff.

 

Most definitely... but Im not financially able to this all at the same time so I'll have to improvise. So far, you've been good help, but I'm halfway there.

Now that I know that this idea of mine will actually work...

-How do I remove the rear speakers?
-How do I bypass the bose amps?

 

Open your trunk and look up under the speakers. You will see 4 screws pointing down, each has a 4mm nut. Remove those nuts and the speakers will fall out.


Cut the wires, unscrew the amps, and hook the headunit speaker outputs to the rear speakers.

If you're planning to use an amplifier seperate from your headunit it will get a bit more difficult.

 

The head unit should be powerful enough to handle the non-bose speakers, which btw are JBL Loud "Clear Series" (i know, not very good but they do the job), so I'm not planning on using an externall amplifier. However, I do not want to run new wires thru the car, I'd like to use the same speaker wires already there.

Is this possible?

 

You will need to tear out your interior to run power wires for the amp(s)(I've got it to the point where I can rip apart my whole interior in like 10 mins hehe).

You can use the factory speaker wire, but to be honest, it's not very good wire. The sound quality difference wouldn't be noticible if you used what's already there.

 

Explain what you mean when you say "the sound quality difference would not be noticeable if you used whats already there" please...

Again, thanx for all of this help...

 

I mean, the naked ear could not tell the difference between gold plated 500 dollar per foot wire or 99 cent per mile Radio Shack special wire.

Use what is already there, it will be easier.

 

Actually, they are 5.25" I initially thought they were 6x9 as well but I looked at them and they are actually 5.25" speakers in the rear deck for the Non-Bose system. But I am going to put some 3 way 6x9s in the rear because one of the 5s blew.

BTW, everyone is forgetting Chitwista's system.

 

Just what we need, another self proclaimed expert that has not even done the install yet. Q-s are good speakers, but they are no-way the stand out best. If you have not heard of or heard better you have much left to learn.

 

ojmac, I'm impressed, someone who knows car stereo's, right on...

with the bose stereo, just bypass the amps, front and rear, it's real easy and really a must...even if you leave the front speaker's stock, you should bypass the amp or you will be replacing them....the front speaker's are a 4" that ported in a plastic box, you can fit a 6 1/2" in the door, I'd recomend doing that, you just have to make a mounting plate, easy enough, all you need is some pressboard, a saw and a drill with a 6 1/2" bit...it will be worth the little effort....

 

how can you say the MB quartz are one of the top of the lines?

i guess u never heard of USD, BA's, and other junk i cant remember.

 

Umm... MB Quarts in general are pretty damn good.
Sure, there are lots of other companies like Boston
Acoustic and whatever that other one was, but if you
ever go to a competition, see what most people have.
JL, MBQuart, etc. In general I'm an eclipse guy,
but thats just me. Everybody else at my shop
lives and dies by MBQuart.

 

Haha, forgot to mention. MB's are in no way
the best, there are plenty of reference quality
brands, but for the reliability, ease of install,
sound quality, etc, MB's stand out pretty well.

 

So you're the know-it-all huh?? hehe...

 

i just want to clarify for everyone. on the non-bose system(at least on the 92gxe)the rear speakers are not 6x9. they are 6.5" speakers. if you go buy 6.5"speakers they will mount right in with nothing to modify. if you want to put 6x9s in there your gonna need to cut the holes out bigger. it is not worth the trouble.

 

haha yes i forgot eclipse they are freaking awesome.
they sound so clear,

in my opinion infinity kappas are decent for the price i get them at, those are what i run

 

wow.. I'm impressed.. you proclaim yourself as the expert on 3rd gen stereo installs, then promptly state the WRONG speaker sizes for non-bose systems..

Then you go on to say the MBQ-Q are the best there is.. blah.. there is no "best there is".. it's all a matter of personal opinion, and there are dozens of brands that will compete with/beat the MBQs.

And until you've completely finished your system and have posted pics and dominate on the competition circuit, don't proclaim yourself "the expert" on anything- especially when you give out wrong information immediately afterwards!

Thank you, have a nice day.

 

He said his system was stock bose. Therefore the rear speakers are 6x9s. I was mistaken when I spoke about non-bose stock systems.

MB Quarts are one of the best "for your money" brands out there. If you want to spend 6k on custom pods housing BA components, more power to you. Personally neither I nor the person I am doing the install for can afford to do that heh.

EDIT: Obviously you didn't read the whole thread Matt. I'll email you in a few days about that headlight

 

Hey, I have a 92 GXE, there is an unbearable amount of distortion in my system, it is the Factory Bose with Cass. When listening to the radio, the distortion goes away a little bit, if someone touches the Antenna, but then it is also there when I play tapes. I do not want to have to replace my entire system, as that would cost considerably more money than I have. I would like to know the cheapest solution that would solve my problem. Is there another Head Unit I can buy that is compatible. I already have a Kenwood KDC-8009 at my house, that came out of an older car. I have looked at Soundgate, and there are Double Din cd players on Ebay, are those compatible with mine? Also what about the Clarion Units that are in the 300ZX, can someone please explain all of this to me and help me out here, I really just want to be able to listen to cds the cheapest way possible and with little distoration, I am not going to be blazing my system and trying to show off, I just want some music.
Thanks

 

pshhh i paid 150 for my 6.5's and 150 for my 6x9 inifinity kappa's and they sound better than anyone else's car ive been in..

 

If when you wiggle the antenna the distortion stops, to me it sounds like the outer shielding around the antenna wire is frayed and grounding out to the head unit case.

Try pulling the stereo out (pull off face panel, remove four screws, pull) and look on the back. The right hand side of the back if you are looking down on top of the radio should hold a wire about 6mm thick. It has 2 prongs on it, that is the antenna wire. Check for visual damage or corrosion.

If you ultimately want to replace the radio, do NOT attempt to re-use the bose amplifiers. Not only are they cheaply made, but they are hard to interface and are only stable to 3.25 ohms approximatly. If you amplify the signal prior to the bose amps and speakers, you are asking to blow them up.

Unfortunately, you will be better off replacing the entire system, compared to trying to re-use bits and pieces.

Hope this helps

 

alright, i guess i will have to get new speakers then. I have a few questions though, is there any need to replace the factory wiring? Also is the only piece i need for my new head unit going to be the wiring harness to make it work with new speakers and factory wires?, also what size speakers should I put in the back and what size in the front doors, and, since I am going to put in new speakers I would like to add some tweeters to the front. Since there is no factory wiring their, Would i be able to just run it from the door speakers or would I have to go all the way back to the Head Unit?

 

hey matt, dont argue with this guy... if he says he knows the most, he MUST be an expert, i mean... who are WE to judge him... anyways, i'd love to see this job you do... be sure to post pics, when you're done

 

by the way matt, you're an IASCA competitor right? i think i remember you saying you were, anyways, i was wondering if you have ever ported your rear deck for a little SPL gain... hit me back on this

 

I have a question, it should be very simple for you all. All I have is an aftermarket headunit w/ RCA connectors on the back, a 400 watt Kenwood Amp, and a 10" Subwoofer. The rest is all stock Bose.

When installing this setup for the first time, I tapped into the rear Bose speaker before the Bose amp. By using a converter to RCA. My 10" Sub was really, really quiet. So, I the switch the tap from, before the Bose amp TO after the Bose amp. It sounds loud. My problem is fixed.

I wanted to get rid of the converter and just use a long RCA cable from the headunit to my Kenwood Amp. When I did this, my 10" Sub got really, really quiet again. My amp is turned up. So, what do I do to fix the problem of the quiet subwoofer? Thank you.

 

You were amplifying a pre-amplified signal if you tapped in after the bose amps. That is why it got loud, and distorted I would imagine.

What kind of after-market Headunit is it? Also, define the voltage on the RCA out for your sub.

Did you bridge the amp? If so, check to insure you did it correctly.

Lastly, describe the coverter you used. Make/Model/Part number, would help.