Rear Exhaust Manifold Studs
#1
Rear Exhaust Manifold Studs
I knew it was going to happen one day and it finally did. I had the front manufold studs replaced about 2 years ago when the broke and the rear ones face the same fate. Anybody know of a good place to get this done in the Seattle (north pref) area? The quote I got from Northwest Nissan was $700. Considering the location, I have a feeling this probably isn't a DIY job....
#2
any sounds from broken studs
I was just wondering if you noticed any strange noises when the studs broke. Did your car have a raspy-like noise when you first started it up for 3-4 minutes or sound like the wind was blowing through it? I have a 93 and I am experiencing this noise and a couple of people in the past stated that could be the problem. It is going to my mechanic tomorrow, but they are not sure until they look at it what might be the problem. They suggested there is a possibility that the heat shield on the cat. converter could be a tad loose. I don't know, but it is aggrevating. Thanks.
#3
Tom, that should be about a $300 job, not a $700 job..
the parts only cost about $50-60, so obviously the labor is what eats you.. but 700 for that job is absolutely ridiculous!
I would suggest buying OEM parts, and taking them to a good non-dealer mechanic and have them do it for you. you'll pay quite a bit less, and get the same results.
But yeah, it IS a DIY job if you're okay with changing exhaust, engine mounts, alternator, etc. (you'll have to pull the exhaust and at least the rear engine mount to get to the rear studs)
Scottfish, yeah, I'm about 90% sure your problem is exhaust studs. Cat shields aren't usually a problem on our cars. In fact, I've never even heard of it happening on our cars. I'm sure it CAN happen, but usually doesn't.
the parts only cost about $50-60, so obviously the labor is what eats you.. but 700 for that job is absolutely ridiculous!
I would suggest buying OEM parts, and taking them to a good non-dealer mechanic and have them do it for you. you'll pay quite a bit less, and get the same results.
But yeah, it IS a DIY job if you're okay with changing exhaust, engine mounts, alternator, etc. (you'll have to pull the exhaust and at least the rear engine mount to get to the rear studs)
Scottfish, yeah, I'm about 90% sure your problem is exhaust studs. Cat shields aren't usually a problem on our cars. In fact, I've never even heard of it happening on our cars. I'm sure it CAN happen, but usually doesn't.
#4
$700 estimate ($768 yo be exact)included a new exhaust manifold. I've heard from many folks that the manifolds usually never warp on these cars, so I am a bit skeptical that I need a new manifold.
Anyway, you have a good point. My regular non-Nissan mechanic happens to run a muffler shop, so I'll take it there for an estimate.
Now are there only 3 mounts on a Maxima? (front & rear mounts on center member and one on transmission). I didn't see one near the timing belt cover.
I took the center member off on my Camry when I was doing suspension work, but there were 4 mounts, so I didn't have much to worry taking the center mount off, but I am not so certain, this is something you want to remove on a Maxima without other means of support.
Drilling out the old studs is what I am most concerned about as its something I've never done before.
Anyway, you have a good point. My regular non-Nissan mechanic happens to run a muffler shop, so I'll take it there for an estimate.
Now are there only 3 mounts on a Maxima? (front & rear mounts on center member and one on transmission). I didn't see one near the timing belt cover.
I took the center member off on my Camry when I was doing suspension work, but there were 4 mounts, so I didn't have much to worry taking the center mount off, but I am not so certain, this is something you want to remove on a Maxima without other means of support.
Drilling out the old studs is what I am most concerned about as its something I've never done before.
#6
Today I removed the front exhaust pipe from my 92 GXE. All the studs on the manifolds still looked quite good. But since I already bought all the new studs and don't want any trouble in the future, I really want to replace them. Is there any tool available I can use to pull the studs out instead of drilling? BTW, the 2 studs at the CAT converter were severely rusted. I spent almost 3 hours to cut and drill them out. Having done that, I certainly don't like to drill 6 more studs plus removing all other parts.
.Dennis
.Dennis
#7
Two nuts
Screw a nut onto the stud. Make sure there's about another nut thickness of screwthreads exposed on the top of the stud. Take another nut and screw it onto the stud until it contacts the first nut. Now tighten the two nuts against each other, them, take a wrench and turn the inner nut counter clockwise. The stud should come right out like a screw.
Use WD40 liberally.
Use WD40 liberally.
#9
it would be MUCH easier to leave the head on the car to do this job... pulling the head makes this job go from a couple hours, to a full day ordeal.
As for the mounts, there are 4 mounts on the engine/tranny. the two large ones under the engine, then there are 2 mounts on the tranny. one is just under the battery, and the other is under the brake master cylinder.
do NOT try to let the engine rest on the tranny mounts.. only remove one of the engine mounts at a time, unless you have the engine supported some other way.
As for the mounts, there are 4 mounts on the engine/tranny. the two large ones under the engine, then there are 2 mounts on the tranny. one is just under the battery, and the other is under the brake master cylinder.
do NOT try to let the engine rest on the tranny mounts.. only remove one of the engine mounts at a time, unless you have the engine supported some other way.
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