[holy] sliding control arms [batman]
10-01-2007, 02:27 PM
#1
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[holy] sliding control arms [batman]
I posted recently about some strange front suspension noise during braking and acceleration:
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=403983
Then I posted about a damaged stabilizer bar bushing:
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=405573
Last week I noticed the left stabilizer bushing has gotten bad as well, also I saw that the right control arm is receded further back then the left one. My opinion now is that they are both sliding fore and aft, causing the noise, and concurrently destroying these bushings.
I just came to this conclusion yesterday, so I havent gotten under the car to fiddle with anything, or to confirm it, but it makes sense. Should the fix be as simple as tightening the big nut on the control arms until they dont have any room to slide? Anyone ever have this issue?
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=403983
Then I posted about a damaged stabilizer bar bushing:
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=405573
Last week I noticed the left stabilizer bushing has gotten bad as well, also I saw that the right control arm is receded further back then the left one. My opinion now is that they are both sliding fore and aft, causing the noise, and concurrently destroying these bushings.
I just came to this conclusion yesterday, so I havent gotten under the car to fiddle with anything, or to confirm it, but it makes sense. Should the fix be as simple as tightening the big nut on the control arms until they dont have any room to slide? Anyone ever have this issue?
:
10-01-2007, 07:19 PM
#6
ummm, if your control arms are moving fore/aft, then you need to fix it ASAP.
As in don't drive the car. tow it to a shop if you can't do it yourself.
..... And the only mechanics I'd recommend are in Florida right now with the National Z Convention (where I am too..
)
As in don't drive the car. tow it to a shop if you can't do it yourself.
..... And the only mechanics I'd recommend are in Florida right now with the National Z Convention (where I am too..
)
10-01-2007, 08:12 PM
#7
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I look forward to many photos from the National Z Convention!
10-08-2007, 05:01 AM
#12
mikekantor:
You have either a power steering fluid leak or a front crankshaft main seal leak going on the passenger side. You need to fix the leak before you replace the control arm bushings/sway bar link bushings,otherwise the fluids will eat up new stock rubber bushings in no time at all
Another option would be replacing all front suspension bushings with energy suspension polyurethane bushings.
You have either a power steering fluid leak or a front crankshaft main seal leak going on the passenger side. You need to fix the leak before you replace the control arm bushings/sway bar link bushings,otherwise the fluids will eat up new stock rubber bushings in no time at all
Another option would be replacing all front suspension bushings with energy suspension polyurethane bushings.
10-08-2007, 09:53 AM
#15
Pictures won't do you any good,he has a VE= take off crank pulley/pull out old seal/put in new seal.
The vg has a timing belt sprocket that has to come off in order to replace the front main seal,not mention all the other crap that has to come off in order to reach the seal..
10-08-2007, 11:05 AM
#16
Pictures won't do you any good,he has a VE= take off crank pulley/pull out old seal/put in new seal.
The vg has a timing belt sprocket that has to come off in order to replace the front main seal,not mention all the other crap that has to come off in order to reach the seal..
The vg has a timing belt sprocket that has to come off in order to replace the front main seal,not mention all the other crap that has to come off in order to reach the seal..
10-08-2007, 03:05 PM
#17
the front main seal is VERY hard to remove. I tried using heat, then a puller...eventually I just decided to leave it because it wasn't leaking in the first place. I just wanted to do it while I was redoing the oil pan seal and putting in the VE trans. The rear main is much easier. I would reccomend buying a special puller just for this job, because trying to use other things probably won't work. That sucker is on there good.
10-08-2007, 04:07 PM
#18
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the front main seal is VERY hard to remove. I tried using heat, then a puller...eventually I just decided to leave it because it wasn't leaking in the first place. I just wanted to do it while I was redoing the oil pan seal and putting in the VE trans. The rear main is much easier. I would reccomend buying a special puller just for this job, because trying to use other things probably won't work. That sucker is on there good.
10-08-2007, 04:15 PM
#19
Thanks for the heads up. A puller has been on my shopping list anyway because I have to get both main seals out, as well as the axle seals. It think thats the last tool remaining... just bought a load leveler for the hoist, and an assortment of large 1/2" sockets over the weekend.
10-08-2007, 08:38 PM
#20
If my engine is still running by the time I do my next timing belt, I will pull the engine and do both front and rear main seals.
BTW how often should the Tbelt be changed, 60-80k? I've got 41k miles since I replaced it. I wanna start buying parts little by little so by the time I reach the deadline I've got all the cam/crank seals and EVERYTHING I'll need.
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