Heat...
#43
#46
yeah I looked at the heater valve and regardless of the position of the temp selector inside, the valve is in the same position. Is this a common item to fail? If so, I may not want to get one from the JY.
#47
Check the wire harness going to the valve with a meter to see if it's getting juice(slide the controls from heat to cold/when testing)..If it is then yea,the valve would most likely need to be replaced..
On a side note,these unit rarely fail,so getting a used unit from a salvage yard would be your best option.
#49
my heat kinda works too. When I first start it up and run down the road a while it won't work and then all of a sudden it gets hot. Any reason why? It seems like it should get hot immediately as soon as the operating temp is up? Not very cold here in Texas yet, but don't like to freeze.
#50
I jacked up the front of the car and let it bleed the air. It seemed to work. I had heat while idling. Now a few days later, no heat at all while driving or idling. Then all of a sudden I have heat. I thinking heater control valve. I went out to check the coolant level and the radiator is low but the overflow tank is full to the top. What gives?
#53
pull both hoses off going to your heater core and flush them with your water hose with the valve set on "FIRE!!!!"
run it one direction for a minute or two, then go the other way.. back and forth for a while. you'll be amazed how much sludge and crap comes out of your heater core.
If that doesn't do anything, check your water **** to make sure its opening completely.
run it one direction for a minute or two, then go the other way.. back and forth for a while. you'll be amazed how much sludge and crap comes out of your heater core.
If that doesn't do anything, check your water **** to make sure its opening completely.
#56
then you simply have too much air in the system and you didn't burp it properly. If you have too much air in there, it won't fill/suck the overflow tank properly and you'll just wind up with MORE air in the radiator. its strange, but that's the way it works.
you need to jack the front end of the car WAAAAAAAY up (as per the FSM) and bleed the system again.
you need to jack the front end of the car WAAAAAAAY up (as per the FSM) and bleed the system again.
#57
then you simply have too much air in the system and you didn't burp it properly. If you have too much air in there, it won't fill/suck the overflow tank properly and you'll just wind up with MORE air in the radiator. its strange, but that's the way it works.
you need to jack the front end of the car WAAAAAAAY up (as per the FSM) and bleed the system again.
you need to jack the front end of the car WAAAAAAAY up (as per the FSM) and bleed the system again.
#58
When I got my car, it was leaking from a crack in the top tank of the radiator, right near the passengers side mounting post. I lost a good bit of fluid before I spotted the leak. After I repaired the leak, I just filled the radiator, and fired it up for a bit. When the fluid went down, I filled again, and repeated, the filled up the overflow bottle, and all was good. I guess I was lucky because the car was parked on a bit of a hill, must have been enough to do the job.
#60
my problem
I have 212k+ miles on my GXE 92. This summar, I got the timing belt and water pump replaced. After that, I noticed that the temperature guage maxs out with just 10 minutes of driving and then gradually cools down to the center of the meter without even stopping the car. Happened many many times. I took the car back to the mechanic and he added a lot of coolant with the car running. But I've noticed the same thing later too several times. Later when I checked once, the radiator was empty (but the reserse plastic "bottle" for coolant was full, I don't know what is its purpose then). I put almost half gallon of coolant and started the car and waited for air bubbles. Not one was found. After that, the temperature guage stays in the middle.
Now the heater blows cold air. I took my car to the mechanic (after driving for an hour). He pressed gas hard for 10 minutes with the heating on. Then warmer air started coming out. He told me that since there are too many miles, the engine is weak and I should start it at least for 10-15 minutes and then rev the engine. He also told me that the coil for the heater is bad and it is for $400.
Any comments?
Now the heater blows cold air. I took my car to the mechanic (after driving for an hour). He pressed gas hard for 10 minutes with the heating on. Then warmer air started coming out. He told me that since there are too many miles, the engine is weak and I should start it at least for 10-15 minutes and then rev the engine. He also told me that the coil for the heater is bad and it is for $400.
Any comments?
#61
#62
I have 212k+ miles on my GXE 92. This summar, I got the timing belt and water pump replaced. After that, I noticed that the temperature guage maxs out with just 10 minutes of driving and then gradually cools down to the center of the meter without even stopping the car. Happened many many times. I took the car back to the mechanic and he added a lot of coolant with the car running. But I've noticed the same thing later too several times. Later when I checked once, the radiator was empty (but the reserse plastic "bottle" for coolant was full, I don't know what is its purpose then). I put almost half gallon of coolant and started the car and waited for air bubbles. Not one was found. After that, the temperature guage stays in the middle.
Now the heater blows cold air. I took my car to the mechanic (after driving for an hour). He pressed gas hard for 10 minutes with the heating on. Then warmer air started coming out. He told me that since there are too many miles, the engine is weak and I should start it at least for 10-15 minutes and then rev the engine. He also told me that the coil for the heater is bad and it is for $400.
Any comments?
Now the heater blows cold air. I took my car to the mechanic (after driving for an hour). He pressed gas hard for 10 minutes with the heating on. Then warmer air started coming out. He told me that since there are too many miles, the engine is weak and I should start it at least for 10-15 minutes and then rev the engine. He also told me that the coil for the heater is bad and it is for $400.
Any comments?
#63
#65
I'm in New Jersey, so I can't bring my car to you. I don't even know if my car can travel that much but it certainly never proved to be a jerk and I feel like a king when driving it until I take it to a mechanic.
#66
All the information you need is right here in the archived threads,use the free google search,or donate $20(good for 20 years) for the "good" search function..
#67
There's your trouble....I suggest learning how to fix it yourself,these cars are quite "shade tree mechanic" friendly..
All the information you need is right here in the archived threads,use the free google search,or donate $20(good for 20 years) for the "good" search function..
All the information you need is right here in the archived threads,use the free google search,or donate $20(good for 20 years) for the "good" search function..
I don't know about the free google search. When I try to find a topic, I sort all the threads by the titles and skip pages to get to the ones I need.
#68
Certainly I love to fix things myself and did few of them too (clock fixing several times, door lock timer, some others too). I do lack time and a place as there isn't much space outside my apartment
I don't know about the free google search. When I try to find a topic, I sort all the threads by the titles and skip pages to get to the ones I need.
I don't know about the free google search. When I try to find a topic, I sort all the threads by the titles and skip pages to get to the ones I need.
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