300zx exhaust manifold???
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Miami, FL. / Indianapolis, IN.
Posts: 2,614
300zx exhaust manifold???
ok, so im trying to turbo the VG but i just want to make sure that i have to use the 2 pass. side Z31 manifolds? i found them on ebay so i need to know if i have to use 2 pass. side manifold. does it matter if they are non-turbo manifolds or not? let me know.
#2
Shouldn't matter if it is turbo or non-turbo. You could actually get the same manifolds off an early model VG Maxima as well. Just make sure that he sent you an image of matching manifolds that has a 90 degree bend at the end, opening up at the same place as the openings where it bolts to the head.
You will have to either plug the EGR tubing holes on the manifolds or do what I did, just weld them up.
You will have to either plug the EGR tubing holes on the manifolds or do what I did, just weld them up.
#6
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Miami, FL. / Indianapolis, IN.
Posts: 2,614
i can see that. i just need to make sure that these are the manifolds that i need to get since i read in the stickies that in order to boost our VG's we would have to use 2 pass. Z31 manifolds turbo or non-turbo don't know if its any different and or a 2nd gen maxima. but i found a both pass. side manifolds on ebay from a Z31 non-turbo.
#10
Sorry guys, I do work long hours and have a family. Plus, I can't miss Heroes on Monday. Priorities, you know!
The image you posted is the manifold you will need x2. This is the right side manifold off the older VG engine, regardless of turbo or NA. The left side manifold either housed the turbo or opened up for the exhuast pipe to drop down.
Using two of these right side manifolds, you will have to get a cross over pipe fabricated to join the two sections and be able to mount the turbo. Some have had a shop fabricate this peace from scratch. I actually utilized the original crossover pipe in fabricating the one I needed. The shop I had do mine used the triangle ends off the old pipe and welded to new steel pipe (NOT muffler pipe!). He then cut off the T3 turbo mount from the left manifold (I had a left side turbo manifold) and welded it to the center of the new crossover pipe. He also added a support for the turbo which attached to an original bolt on the transmission. The end.
Search the turbo and 3rd gen forums for how others have set theirs up. You may want to run some longer pieces of pipe from your manifolds and bolt up the turbo further away from the engine, closer to where the battery is originall located. MaxMaxima has several fantastic images of his setup, just look for his most recent thread "Just got back from the dyno" and click his links. As for mine, you can see images on my Cardomain page.
The image you posted is the manifold you will need x2. This is the right side manifold off the older VG engine, regardless of turbo or NA. The left side manifold either housed the turbo or opened up for the exhuast pipe to drop down.
Using two of these right side manifolds, you will have to get a cross over pipe fabricated to join the two sections and be able to mount the turbo. Some have had a shop fabricate this peace from scratch. I actually utilized the original crossover pipe in fabricating the one I needed. The shop I had do mine used the triangle ends off the old pipe and welded to new steel pipe (NOT muffler pipe!). He then cut off the T3 turbo mount from the left manifold (I had a left side turbo manifold) and welded it to the center of the new crossover pipe. He also added a support for the turbo which attached to an original bolt on the transmission. The end.
Search the turbo and 3rd gen forums for how others have set theirs up. You may want to run some longer pieces of pipe from your manifolds and bolt up the turbo further away from the engine, closer to where the battery is originall located. MaxMaxima has several fantastic images of his setup, just look for his most recent thread "Just got back from the dyno" and click his links. As for mine, you can see images on my Cardomain page.
#11
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Miami, FL. / Indianapolis, IN.
Posts: 2,614
Sorry guys, I do work long hours and have a family. Plus, I can't miss Heroes on Monday. Priorities, you know!
The image you posted is the manifold you will need x2. This is the right side manifold off the older VG engine, regardless of turbo or NA. The left side manifold either housed the turbo or opened up for the exhuast pipe to drop down.
Using two of these right side manifolds, you will have to get a cross over pipe fabricated to join the two sections and be able to mount the turbo. Some have had a shop fabricate this peace from scratch. I actually utilized the original crossover pipe in fabricating the one I needed. The shop I had do mine used the triangle ends off the old pipe and welded to new steel pipe (NOT muffler pipe!). He then cut off the T3 turbo mount from the left manifold (I had a left side turbo manifold) and welded it to the center of the new crossover pipe. He also added a support for the turbo which attached to an original bolt on the transmission. The end.
Search the turbo and 3rd gen forums for how others have set theirs up. You may want to run some longer pieces of pipe from your manifolds and bolt up the turbo further away from the engine, closer to where the battery is originall located. MaxMaxima has several fantastic images of his setup, just look for his most recent thread "Just got back from the dyno" and click his links. As for mine, you can see images on my Cardomain page.
The image you posted is the manifold you will need x2. This is the right side manifold off the older VG engine, regardless of turbo or NA. The left side manifold either housed the turbo or opened up for the exhuast pipe to drop down.
Using two of these right side manifolds, you will have to get a cross over pipe fabricated to join the two sections and be able to mount the turbo. Some have had a shop fabricate this peace from scratch. I actually utilized the original crossover pipe in fabricating the one I needed. The shop I had do mine used the triangle ends off the old pipe and welded to new steel pipe (NOT muffler pipe!). He then cut off the T3 turbo mount from the left manifold (I had a left side turbo manifold) and welded it to the center of the new crossover pipe. He also added a support for the turbo which attached to an original bolt on the transmission. The end.
Search the turbo and 3rd gen forums for how others have set theirs up. You may want to run some longer pieces of pipe from your manifolds and bolt up the turbo further away from the engine, closer to where the battery is originall located. MaxMaxima has several fantastic images of his setup, just look for his most recent thread "Just got back from the dyno" and click his links. As for mine, you can see images on my Cardomain page.
#12
Yes, I used the original x-over pipe for PEICES in putting together the one I needed to mount the turbo. Honestly, I just used the traingle ends off the stock x-over that bolt up to the manifolds. Cutting them off and using them just saved a lot of additional fabrication. That is also why I just had the original T3 mount off the left manifold cut off as well and then welded to my new/fabricated x-over. Sounds rigged, but it is more solid than some others I've seen. Only suggestion I would make is to wrap your manifolds and the turbo as you are installing it....you won't be able to after it's all together. FYI: you WANT to wrap everything you can to reduce heat inside the engine bay. Many sensitive wires and vacuum lins run all over the engine bay as it is. You will melt something(s) if not attentive and run things away from heat.
Sorry, I can't seem to find my image of the completed x-over peice.
Sorry, I can't seem to find my image of the completed x-over peice.
#14
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Miami, FL. / Indianapolis, IN.
Posts: 2,614
Yes, I used the original x-over pipe for PEICES in putting together the one I needed to mount the turbo. Honestly, I just used the traingle ends off the stock x-over that bolt up to the manifolds. Cutting them off and using them just saved a lot of additional fabrication. That is also why I just had the original T3 mount off the left manifold cut off as well and then welded to my new/fabricated x-over. Sounds rigged, but it is more solid than some others I've seen. Only suggestion I would make is to wrap your manifolds and the turbo as you are installing it....you won't be able to after it's all together. FYI: you WANT to wrap everything you can to reduce heat inside the engine bay. Many sensitive wires and vacuum lins run all over the engine bay as it is. You will melt something(s) if not attentive and run things away from heat.
Sorry, I can't seem to find my image of the completed x-over peice.
Sorry, I can't seem to find my image of the completed x-over peice.
#15
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Miami, FL. / Indianapolis, IN.
Posts: 2,614
on our 3rd gens or the Z31? i'll tell you this though, you don't need to remove your engine but you do need to lower the cross member and the rear engine mount out of the way along with the y-pipe just to remove the manifold.
#17
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Miami, FL. / Indianapolis, IN.
Posts: 2,614
look under the engine. to the left under the engine is the rear motor mount and under that mount is the long beam that im talking about which is the cross member.
Last edited by GRNMAXDMON; 11-22-2007 at 07:14 AM.
#18
Finally found some images off my laptop. The first is an image of the fabricated x-over. The second is of the turbo installed with no piping yet connected. You can see how close it actually is to the engine. In hindsight, I would have probably moved it away from the engine about an inch and shifted the angle a bit so that the intake piping would still clear my brake booster and driver's strut tower.
http://a909.ac-images.myspacecdn.com...78d86d2a04.jpg
http://a549.ac-images.myspacecdn.com...017c3b208c.jpg
http://a909.ac-images.myspacecdn.com...78d86d2a04.jpg
http://a549.ac-images.myspacecdn.com...017c3b208c.jpg
Last edited by Chris Gregg; 11-22-2007 at 07:45 AM.
#19
Im not sure if this helps but what me and Mark did on are set ups was cut the littel wall out in the turbo manifold so it will flow backwards and make a custom cossover pipe for the turbo and loose that egr just weld shut
#20
Thanks a lot! Does that mean I need to remove the cross member and the rear engine mount as well as Y-pipe? Will the engine drop if I remove the cross member and the rear engine mount? I am look forward to your reply.
#21
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Miami, FL. / Indianapolis, IN.
Posts: 2,614
no need to remove crossmember completely, just remove the reat mount out the way once you have loosened the crossmember and the y-pipe. secure the engine so that it rests on something and not on top of you. yes the engine will drop thats why it needs to be supported by something else while the crossmember is hanging down. remember your tranny will still be bolted up to the block and the frame of the car so just get a safe jack to jack the engine up or down while removing all these parts. good luck.
#22
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Miami, FL. / Indianapolis, IN.
Posts: 2,614
Finally found some images off my laptop. The first is an image of the fabricated x-over. The second is of the turbo installed with no piping yet connected. You can see how close it actually is to the engine. In hindsight, I would have probably moved it away from the engine about an inch and shifted the angle a bit so that the intake piping would still clear my brake booster and driver's strut tower.
http://a909.ac-images.myspacecdn.com...78d86d2a04.jpg
http://a549.ac-images.myspacecdn.com...017c3b208c.jpg
http://a909.ac-images.myspacecdn.com...78d86d2a04.jpg
http://a549.ac-images.myspacecdn.com...017c3b208c.jpg
#23
Thanks! Can I use a floor jack to support the engine while I remove the rear mount and cross memeber? And where is the safe place to support? I want to install a wood pedal on the supporting plate of the floor jack so that it will not hurt the engine. Can I do that?
#24
no need to remove crossmember completely, just remove the reat mount out the way once you have loosened the crossmember and the y-pipe. secure the engine so that it rests on something and not on top of you. yes the engine will drop thats why it needs to be supported by something else while the crossmember is hanging down. remember your tranny will still be bolted up to the block and the frame of the car so just get a safe jack to jack the engine up or down while removing all these parts. good luck.
#25
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Miami, FL. / Indianapolis, IN.
Posts: 2,614
Thanks a lot! Can I use a floor jack to support the engine while I remove the rear mount and cross member? Where is the safe place to support the engine? I want to attach a wood pedal on the supporting plate of the jack in order not to hurt the engine. Can I do that? Thanks.
#26
Can I support under the oil pan? It looks like something plastic. Will not I hurt it? Can I make sure the front end security if I do not remove the front end bolts? Or maybe I support other points except the oil pan? Any suggestion? Thanks a lot.
#27
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Miami, FL. / Indianapolis, IN.
Posts: 2,614
you support the engine on the oil pan. it is metal so don't worry you will not hurt it. just put jack stands under the frame of the car to support it so that you can have enough room to work from under the car and be safe.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
BPuff57
Advanced Suspension, Chassis, and Braking
33
04-16-2020 05:15 AM