Hey guys, my radiator took a dump on me and the crack at the top has gotten too big to let go any further. I was wondering what, if any, aftermarket radiators are good for the VE. I vaguely remember reading that Z31 300zx guys used the VE radiator, but I can't remember and can't find it through search. For a daily driven car should I just go ahead and get OEM, or is there anything better out there for around $100?

Thanks in advance.

 

dont know bro but you can get a koyo radiator for about 150 and here is the website for you to check out one place i found it for sale on. i would rather much upgrade my radator with a koyo radiator over OEM if you plan on doing performance upgrades that will make your engine run much hotter then a stock radiator can handle.

http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/de...3-1608247.html

 

I found a Koyo on ebay for $92+ $25 shipping, but wasn't familiar with the brand. Have any experience with it?

 

not yet but plan on buying a koyo radiator when i build up my ve motor im planning to do soon. koyo is a very good radiator brand from alot that i have heard and read.

 

the radiator you linked to had pretty much all 3g's listed, do VGs and VEs have the same radiator?

 

I read somewhere else that Koyo doesn't make them for Auto's, too... perhaps it was just that websites inventory.

 

VG/VE is the same, I believe.

The autos just had a small cooler built into the rad, but it sucks and should be replaced with a real one if you value your auto.

If your not turboing a stock replacement should be fine, maximas don't have a cooling problem stock. And I'm some of the boosted guys have turbos and stock rads any way.

~Alex

 

Stay with oem...

 

at least you know that an oem will last you another 17-18 years like the first one.

 

+1

and you will have 0 fitment issues.

 

Here in South Africa spares are so horribly expensive with no real non-OEM suppliers of anything quality that I had to resort to personal engineering to fix the radiator when it started to leak at the top joint ...................

Seems that the basic problem is the top plastic tank's mounting method to the core - the plastic goes brittle with age/heat and the stupid rubber seal they use there eventually cannot contain the pressure anymore.

My solution was to completely remove the plastic top of the rad as well as the little aluminium fingers, fabricate a new aluminium top, and then permanently welding the new top to the core - this little exercise set me back $100 (converted from local currency) whereas a new rad would have taken 6 weeks to get here at $460 at the agents.

 

Mine actually has a visible crack, so aside from just patching it and going on, I've decided to replace. I found some OEM one's on ebay for about $75 shipped, not too bad. $460 is ridiculous.

 

Agreed ................... but then you guys in the US can buy whole cars cheaper than I can get some spares here - eg - my car in its current very good condition can be bought for around $5000+ here.

Buying huge/heavy stuff off ebay etc is close to a non-no here - my shipping cost will be around $130 to get it here and then on top of that I am thousands of miles away when things go wrong.

 

The rad in our 93 was plastic too and wasted in the accident. The 89 I stripped had an all metal radiator.

 

jbweld

 

I have a similar problem with my radiator leaking along a hairline crack in the top plastic. I don't have the cash for a new radiator and was thinking to use JB weld to patch it. The product I have doesn't list plastic among the surfaces it bonds to. Is there a different type of JB weld for this application? If not, will the regular type work fine? How long do you think it will last?

Thanks.

 

you can get a new radiator for about $100.00. Try 1-800-RADIATOR. They are really easy to install.

 

errr...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/89-94...QQcmdZViewItem

 

Ya, but what about the patch question (reason is I have about $20 bucks in the bank until next week)?

 

As a person who lives in Cali, wonders why no Local Pickup
They make their money through shipping?

 

They are most likely a drop shipper,(i.e. they do not have the actual rads in stock,they only take care of the money part,then the product is shipped by the company who makes the radiator)

 

yes they make their money through shipping.
even if the radiator is of questionable quality.

 

Sorry to be impatient, but could I get an answer to the patch question? Will the regular JB weld work as a temporary fix for a hairline crack on the plastic top of a leaking radiator? If so, for approx how long? Thanks.

 

yes, and potentially forever if you do the repair right

 

Dude, just get it local...you'll be better off in case of anything. I've work for an Auto Cooling/Heating shop for the past 4.5 months and my radiator leaks about 5-10 ounces a month and I'm getting a nice quality radiator for 78 bucks...or a decent quality for 73, my choice

If I had the money I'd get OEM as my car still has OEM and has lasted me since 1992 considering the car is a 1993. Thats good enough for me.

 

Well, another old thread back again. This time to update that the JB weld held for maybe a month (of driving). Since I last posted about the leaking radiator the car was up on stands getting everything else fixed for at least 6-7 months. Now, it is back running again, and the JB weld patch that I had applied just broke loose. If I do it again, should I drill into the crack to give the new material a stronger bond surface?

I'm thinking to just replace the darn thing, but again the cash flow is tight. We'll see, but should I try to patch again?

 

Nothing is more rewarding than doing it right, buy a new one.