Lately my 92 SE has been stalling every now and then, about 5 times in the past week. Seems to only happen when slowing down, going about 10mph. After stalling and coming to a stop, it starts right back up just fine.

Any suggestions on suspect areas to start checking out? I was thinking maybe something with the fuel pump.

 

Gotta give more info...does it sputter? does the RPM gauge go up and down a lot? do your lights dim? Or does it actually just quietly stall when you're slowing down?

 

You are not alone. Wife's 94 SE has been doing the same thing for a while. I have gone down the relay path with switching out from my 93 GXE but nothing has improved.

 

coils are a possibility

 

also could be a possibility that it could be the idle air control valve isnt set right or has some sort of vacuum leak. had that be my problem with it diving down to almost dieing when slowing downa nd coming to a stop. IACV are a commen place to fail and have gaps in them and allow for more air then is measured by the MAF sensor. There for causing it to be running lean. but interautomart is also right the coils could be another factor. but not the only factor to this problem you are having.

 

I say vacuum leak...spray that area down with carb cleaner, see where it dies, then look for cracks on the vac. lines.

 

or they can also use propane. just not lit just the gas pouring out and when u come across the vacuum leak the idle should change.its prolly not going to be cracks on lines as much as it would be gaps on old parts that have vacuum on them like the IACV or at the mounting points of where the vacuum lines connect to the tubes. check all around beneath the Throttle body and at the fire wall where you have the vacuum actuator for your heater core control valve.

 

My first guess would be one or more faulty coil packs.

That is just a guess. You can do a search for "bucking" or "stalling" and there have been several threads regarding this problem with VE30DE engines.

 

I'm going to throw in the mass air flow sensor as a possible cause here also.

 

best way to check for vac leaks IMO.

 

i was shown that trick by my Auto Tech instructor a 7 year ford tech and 8 year BMW tech who knows his drivability problems and how to fix them.

 

Yes the one or two fuel pump relays (in trunk lip) are possible, Also the ecu relay in the engine compartment or the coil relay are possibilities also. Several of these are the same color so one new one can be tried in several places.

 

Thanks all for the tips. The car just all of a sudden stalls when slowing down, no bucking or sputtering. I will have to try some of the suggestions when I get a chance.

One question though, if it was a relay wouldn't it be pretty much a constant problem, or do the relays sometimes fail intermittently?

 

yes, they can. and just my 2 cents> if it doesn't sputter b4 dying, thats more of a chance of being electrical, as in a relay/switch. i had this prob on another vehicle (a chev suv), & as you mentioned, its easiest to just go thru the process of elimination with a fresh relay

 

My problem with the relay was intermittant. The car would just stall or get a flat spot (hesitation) while driving down the street. It would then start right up or run normally again a second later. Guess the electrical signal to the relay occasionally gets weak if something else in the electrical system draws power or a bad connection somewhere loses contact.

 

i have the same problem now! i changed my mass air flow sensor no luck. My plugs are good! the only thing i havent checked was the coil and the pump! but the fact that you cant put these years on a computer SUX!!!

 

hey, i have a 10 year old computer that we could use as a jack stand!

seriously though, thats an opinion, and some guys like the guessing game.
u kno u can pull codes off the ecu, though, right?




btw sometimes i definitely share that opinion

 

time for you to get a better computer.
I've code scanned them before just for shiggle and gits

 

Even though mines a GXE. I had the same probem the other day sluggish going like 5 miles an hour. Put in park car idled good . Put it back to drive sluggish.I thought wires or distributer.I had an extra pair of wires. Switched them real quick and no problem.Also noticed I need a distributor and rotor. But car is runnng fine ever since.

 

sea foam it through the brake booster vac line. its cheap and i may clean carbon build up around the idle air control valve. after that check for vac leaks, then the coil.