Hey

When I go on bumps once in a while my wheel will turn and cause me to go all over the place, CA bushings are new, swaybar links are new. BJs and Tierods are about a 1.5 yr old. bearings are new, axles are new, struts are new...yea its all new. What can it be?

 

Might just be bump steer.

A big enough bump will compress the suspension enough to turn the wheel. Sounds normal as long as its not every bump...

~Alex

 

I dont think so dude...it never did this before... and its not every bump but almost

 

Wow, this is awesome! I dont even have to make my own threads anymore, whoever did this was bored and was doing their job right . Thank you.

 

Silly boys..

 

what the heck just happened here?

 

It happens when they change something in the matrix..

 

i thought i just saw the same cat twice.....

 

Damn son, I want whatever it is you're drinking

 

i want what you're drinking.

 

Heh..you want my glass of milk?

 

sure, send us all a glass of "milk"

 

do not offer john the "white" liquid...he drinks too much of that stuff as it is....and you can call it 'milk' if you want, but that's not what he's used to calling it.

 

ok folks,back to business..

 

lol man you guys are nuts

I'm trying to find out a problem and you're all talking about white stuff and nuts!?

 

sorry, kinda went OT for a minute.....or 5.

anyways, my suspension set up leaves me with a LOT of bumpsteer, but only at higher speeds...like 50+. so if you're having problems at lower speeds, then something isn't right, IMO. check all your bushings again, as well as all suspension components, and make sure nothing is loose/missing/broken. how are your struts?

 

all are about 2 months old

 

my vote is for the ball joints or strut bearings. Strut bearings are in the top hat did you replace it when you did your struts?. Maybe the ball joints got nicked on installation? IDK but do a very through check, we can only guess. But you knew that you lazy fool :P

~Alex

 

Dude you know me, I'm not the type to half *** things. When I changed the struts I did it the right way, new mounts *which include bearings*, and new boots. Ball joints might be a possibility but they were replace on 05/18/06 according to my records.

I just noticed my brakes are making noise from the sensor so I'm checking out my pads tomorrow and replacing pads if necessary (lifetime warranty ftw) and while there I'm gonna do a closer inspection. I've tried shaking the wheels for play while jacked up at work and no play what-so-ever

 

1) They are not called strut bearings, they are bushings...Bearings indicate some type of movement whereas bushings are a damping device.

2) You guys haven't stated the obvious here: steering rack...John, check to see if the rack's boots are torn for starters...Mine were torn when I first bought my car and I ended up replacing the rack. It could be that it is just worn out. If it does end up being the rack, replace it with an SE unit...As I recall, the SE has a slightly sharper ratio to it.

 

1) he's talking about the thing that goes on top of the strut and sits under the strut tower when he says 'bearing'
2) SE has a tighter turn ratio?! Dude I gotta get me one of those racks then!

 

1) they are not called strut bushings, they're called strut mounts and they do have bearings in em

2) my boots on the rack ARE torn but there it no leaking, I DO have a whine when steering and sometimes when not but I'm thinking thats the pump.

 

1. actually, when you order them, they are called "bearings"

2. we did tell him to check the OBVIOUS.....when i said ALL COMPONENTS....the steering rack is included in ALL COMPONENTS.

smart guy.


edit: for example of advertised strut bearings: http://www.drivewire.com/nissanparts...trutmount.html

 

Actually smart guy ...or should I say "real man" from tennessee its called http://www.courtesyparts.com/betasit...611_1700_1702&


And yes they did mention the obvious but the rack isnt part of the suspension rather steering (original prob) but I didnt think having a tear on the boot would make much of a difference considering its a dust shield.

 

****. ;x

 

Your right it is a dust shield, if nissan left the rack exposed it would last maybe 20K miles. I have to replace my rack because I've been too focused on other things and so its been exposed since I got the car (186 now at 202K)

So yea Id blame the rack as long as the strut BEARINGS are still good.

~Alex

 

Yeah the strut mounts are still good so I guess it is the rack

 

yeah, hardly ever have i personally seen bad insulator assemblies......

and john, i just got your 'real man' joke....haha, your girl liked it!

 

That was good

 

Did that spoon really bend, or was it just... never mind.

I posted about this a well a couple of months ago. I have the same issue as well with the crazy play in my steering from road imperfections. Based on things I have already replaced recently I tend to think my issue is also related to a bad steering rack.

Has anyone here priced one out?

 

http://www.courtesyparts.com/betasit...611_1715_1721&

the cheapest one

 

www.internetautosupply.com

 

Alright so I got an alignment courtesy of mr. 1992maximase30 and it doesnt seem to do it anymore...at least on the bumps I encountered on the way home. The alignment was slightly off from doing my parallel link bushings

As for the rack price. I can get one local with lifetime warranty for 159.99 or 169.99 depending on which store. the 170 is Advance Auto and the 160 is Murray's which is only in IL, parts of IN, and possibly Michigan

 

Oh, LOL I thought you were going to say your rear subframe was bent in several places

~Alex

 

Sooo, I fix one thing and screw up the other.. so the 2 giant 7/8 - 22mm bolts that hold the U onto rear of control arm stripped the threading on the car itself and now only one is holding "U" Crap... gonna have to pick up some bigger screws tomorrow, anyone know the next size up from those?


Alex, I'm done bending crap on my car lol....I'll let kevin (cg2) do the bending on his car so I can make leMoney repairing and teaching him how to fix it. Teach him very little at a time course so I can make more moolah over time

 

why don't you repair the threads. when i was installing my stage II lower tie bar, my dad went trigger happy with the air gun and cross threaded one of the lower control arm gusset assembly bolts. so i had to run out to a local welding shop which they are practically the only ones that had the correct size for a repair kit using the heli-coil inserts. it was expensive too. can't remember if the "U" clamp bolts are the same size and thread pitch as the ones on the gusset assembly but if it is just go out and yourself the repair kit from "Chrislynn" part #82172 (M14x1.5 <--- size of the thread) you will also need a 9/16 drill bit so that you can oversize the hole for the repair. everyone was telling me to just put a bigger bolt but didn't want to cuz i didn't want to have to change through sockets when i have to take parts off again. plus i wanted to do everything the correct way. i did this earlier this year and it hasn't given me any problems whatsoever.

 

lol thanks for the help but I've got a FASTER and CHEAPER and just as effective way of fixin which I will tonight

Gonna get a size or 2 larger bolt, cut a slit on each side of the bolt and rethread with it. Its just like having a tap and die set but a poor mans one. I'm gonna do that tonight. Thanks

 

Taps don't cost that much, John...I've had to rethread 3 of 4 or those holes in my time (yes, gussets and u-clamps take the same size), so in addition to keeping the tap on hand I also have a couple of spare bolts...If you can't figure out what size you need I can go dig them up tomorrow.

Sounds like Ricky has the situation under control, as well...

 

I'd also like to add, John, that your ghetto tap isn't the best idea. Taps and dies are a harder grade of steel than that used in the bolts / holes. This ensures proper cutting instead of mangling / warping the threads. Also, the gaps in the tap are much larger than you can put on a bolt (ghetto tap) to let the metal shavings fall through so they don't get caught up and trapped in the hole you are trying to rethread. Trust me, it is worth $5.

And getting back to the steering rack: if the boots are torn it would be a good idea to replace it. I had the same issue with excessive play in the steering right after I bought my car...I was much happier with the steering feel after it was replaced.

 

Pfff, I fixed it already and pics to come Yes a rack will be on its way. Boy o boy my list will be surpassing 6k easily.