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fan blows, but no heat

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Old 12-26-2007, 09:49 AM
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fan blows, but no heat

Going on day 4 of an engine swap that I finally got done. The guys that helped with the install (or more accurately, I was their helper) were great. Any problems along the way were anticipated and intercepted. The longer I drive it, the better it runs, as I blow out any crud and moisture and the ECU gets adapted to a motor that runs the way its supposed to. I'm a happy camper.

One thing thats not going to "fix itself" is that the heater/defroster won't blow out any heat. Its not ice cold, but its obvious somethings wrong there. It seems to me like the heater core isn't getting any coolant flow. I'm not losing any coolant, and its not overheating, though the temp gauge seems to shoot up pretty quick.

So, could it be something as simple as the core not being hooked up to the temp control? Could the heater hoses have been reversed?
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Old 12-26-2007, 09:54 AM
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Could be this?

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=545092
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Old 12-26-2007, 09:56 AM
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If it's a vg engine,it could also be air pockets in the cooling system,namely the heater core..
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Old 12-26-2007, 10:02 AM
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Well, there's no difference whether the car is going under or over 35mph, or idling. But I'll look more into the possibility of there being an electrical or a solenoid issue.

And no, its a VE motor. The problem with air pockets in the system tends to be a VG problem?
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Old 12-26-2007, 10:03 AM
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I also have this problem. I just replaced my radiator and I'm not losing coolant, and the car runs a lot better. But my temp gauge shoots up to just below Midway (Operating temp) in less than 3 minutes or so when it's cold out, and stays there. I also get heat strongest on the drivers side, then the passenger side middle vent is luke warm, and the passenger side far vent is just cool air. I checked vacuum lines and they appear to be normal.
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Old 12-26-2007, 10:10 AM
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Was the heater working before the engine swap? It could be you forgot to hook up some vaccum lines or heater hose lines. It could also be your heater control valve.
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Old 12-26-2007, 10:10 AM
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Originally Posted by gen3fan
Well, there's no difference whether the car is going under or over 35mph, or idling. But I'll look more into the possibility of there being an electrical or a solenoid issue.

And no, its a VE motor. The problem with air pockets in the system tends to be a VG problem?
Originally Posted by 94maxshima
I also have this problem. I just replaced my radiator and I'm not losing coolant, and the car runs a lot better. But my temp gauge shoots up to just below Midway (Operating temp) in less than 3 minutes or so when it's cold out, and stays there. I also get heat strongest on the drivers side, then the passenger side middle vent is luke warm, and the passenger side far vent is just cool air. I checked vacuum lines and they appear to be normal.

Not exclusively a vg problem,the ve is just not as susceptible to air pockets as the vg,but can happen,especially with an engine/radiator swap..

I suggest you both jack your front ends up as high as possible(2-3ft)open the rad cap,start engine,let engine run for a while while you are continuely topping off the rad with coolant.

It may also be necessary to prop the throttle open with a suitable tool to apporx. 2500rpm while you are topping off the radiator.
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Old 12-26-2007, 10:12 AM
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Originally Posted by 94maxshima
I also have this problem. I just replaced my radiator and I'm not losing coolant, and the car runs a lot better. But my temp gauge shoots up to just below Midway (Operating temp) in less than 3 minutes or so when it's cold out, and stays there. I also get heat strongest on the drivers side, then the passenger side middle vent is luke warm, and the passenger side far vent is just cool air. I checked vacuum lines and they appear to be normal.
The thing with the temp gauge is the same, but I'm getting no heat all the time. Its actually just barely enough heat to defog a few inches of the windshield by the defrost outlet, but I know thats just an ambient effect from the warmth under the hood.

So is the thermostat controlled by vacuum, a solenoid, or a direct mechanical hookup? I hadn't even thought of the vacuum lines, but I guess I should check them out.
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Old 12-26-2007, 10:15 AM
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Originally Posted by MyGreenMax94
Not exclusively a vg problem,the ve is just not as susceptible to air pockets as the vg,but can happen,especially with an engine/radiator swap..

I suggest you both jack your front ends up as high as possible(2-3ft)open the rad cap,start engine,let engine run for a while while you are continuely topping off the rad with coolant.

It may also be necessary to prop the throttle open with a suitable tool to apporx. 2500rpm while you are topping off the radiator.
OK, makes sense to me, will do.
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Old 12-26-2007, 10:26 AM
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Originally Posted by gen3fan
OK, makes sense to me, will do.
Read the link in my first post and make sure all the vacuum lines are hooked up correctly and the water **** solenoid before bleeding the system.
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Old 12-26-2007, 11:05 AM
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1 additional step that I do was to squeeze the upper hose to get the air out of the hose and let the coolant get sucked back in. it worked well doing that to my old VE in the middle of winter in the AZ parking lot (it was late, and they're open 24/7)
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Old 12-26-2007, 11:09 AM
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Originally Posted by MyGreenMax94
Read the link in my first post and make sure all the vacuum lines are hooked up correctly and the water **** solenoid before bleeding the system.
OK I clipped and printed the photo from that thread and I'll compare. Plus give a good check around the engine bay.

Just now, I had to go somewhere and just got back. On the way home, the temp gauge shot up and I'm overheating! Then just as suddenly, it stopped, as the gauge went back down to normal. I'm starting to wonder if its something as simple as the thermostat being stuck? Yeesh, look at the simple things first, duh!
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Old 12-26-2007, 11:31 AM
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Originally Posted by gen3fan
OK I clipped and printed the photo from that thread and I'll compare. Plus give a good check around the engine bay.

Just now, I had to go somewhere and just got back. On the way home, the temp gauge shot up and I'm overheating! Then just as suddenly, it stopped, as the gauge went back down to normal. I'm starting to wonder if its something as simple as the thermostat being stuck? Yeesh, look at the simple things first, duh!
Still sounds like air pockets to me.

A bad t-stat will always be bad,not bad one minute,then good the next.
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Old 12-26-2007, 12:10 PM
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Originally Posted by gen3fan
OK I clipped and printed the photo from that thread and I'll compare. Plus give a good check around the engine bay.

Just now, I had to go somewhere and just got back. On the way home, the temp gauge shot up and I'm overheating! Then just as suddenly, it stopped, as the gauge went back down to normal. I'm starting to wonder if its something as simple as the thermostat being stuck? Yeesh, look at the simple things first, duh!
bleeding is cheaper and simpler than replacing a t-stat. so i'd say the coolant airpocket is the simplest, followed by quantity of coolant (b/c adding coolant does cost money), then followed by actual hard parts.
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Old 12-26-2007, 08:17 PM
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If theres an air pocket, it will be steam thats hotter then the coolant, and it will make the gauge do that. My vote is for air bubbles.

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Old 12-29-2007, 08:04 PM
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I'm having the same probelm and now my fan switch is out. How do I remove the fan switch? Can someone lay out the diagnosis steps for the heater problem too. Should I just attempt to jack the front end up real high and see if it bleeds out?
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Old 02-08-2008, 08:33 AM
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be sure to loosen (do not take out) the nut at the upper right corner (standing in front of the car) of the intake manifold after letting the car idle for a few minutes, this is the highest point of your coolants path and will get rid of a lot of air pockets.
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