Well, after my EPIC e-test failure last month



I spent the last few weeks fixing a bunch of stuff.

I replaced:

PCV & EGR valves, CTS sensor, 02 sensor, plugs, air filter, cat converter

did a seafoam flush and switched to synthetic oil (which virtually stopped my vtc clack)

repared/replaced rear manifold/y-pipe studs/gaskets..

unrelated: replaced engine mounts & F&R brakes.. :P

anyhow, this managed to bring all 3 test levels down to passing range! (I can now register my max and drive it again!)



The CO and NO readings were reducted bigtime. Actually all 3 were! HC ppm went from 221 down to 58. But still, 58 is the limit! (Damn! that was close!) Im wondering if theres anything else I can do to bring that result down?

I still have abit of a rough idle (all injectors work) im thinking it could be coil packs.

Anyway, im just glad I have a car again! I doubt the $450 repair limit on the original would have accomplished much.

 

Congrats, who'd ever expect Canada to be so green...

 

HC is probably Hydrocarbons, which is just unburnt fuel, so it could be too much fuel being injected, or a bad coil pack causing in incomplete burn.
Although a new Cat converter should have cleaned this up for you if it was at full operating temp when the test was done, unless there was a lot of unburnt fuel before the cat??

 

Well, he did say his idle is still rough, which could be an ignition problem, resulting in unburnt fuel. If replacing the coil packs fixes his idle, it might fix the HC #. (Silly emissions tests. )

 

so basically it's running to rich? And the rough idle is the result? would resetting the ECM help any? (it hasnt been done and i've changed/replaced a bunch of stuff. )

 

have you checked your timing?
is the IAC clean?

 

How do you check timing on a VE btw? I only know how on vg

 

The same way that you check timing on most any other engine.

 

by 'check' I was also hoping you guys were able to read my mind and acknowledge that I meant check/adjust lol woops

 

you check it by using a timing light and a modified spark plug wire.

 

next obvious Q: how do you adjust it?

 

All newer timing lights that i've used do not require you to use a modified spark plug wire. They will pick up the signal before the coil.

 

by rotating the cps

 

that may be, but the other way we know for sure works, is specified in the FSM, and is more trustworthy to me

 

+1

The procedure for this is in section EC...sub-section EF & EC-180/EF & EC-181

 

That's understandable.