CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

this is very true, however... no other manual car i've driven (in order, 98 Saturn SC, 91 Corolla, 00 Protegé, 06 Miata, 97 Neon, 07 Mustang V6, 01 Cavalier, 89 Probe) have ever whined like that in the forward gears. Now I admit that the only sound barrier from underneath the car is the rubber dust boot on the shifter, and the cat heatshield. But the dash is still not installed, nor the center console/shift boot. My exhaust leak sounded louder when I removed the trim panel around the a/t shifter, so i know every little piece of trim goes into deadening the sounds of the engine. But the engine sounds basically normal.

I'll swap the bracket anyways, and put the car at 20mph in 2nd on jackstands and see where the noise is coming from (potentially unsafe to crawl under there? mebbe but i want to know why it's making that noise)

Greeny

iTrader: (43)

It's always potentially unsafe to crawl under a car...stick a set of wheels/tires under there along with the jackstands..and have someone in the car ready to shut it down if anything goes awry..

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

no.. it's a vinyl jacket that goes around the centerpoint in the big spring to reduce rubbing friction and noise every time you push the pedal. The one on mine wore through...

http://www.courtesyparts.com/betasit...1706_1712.html
part 46525M

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

true, i was thinking of having the wheels on when doing it, but i still want to have the front wheels off the parts car to put under it.. b/c the brakes my rotors aren't rusted onto the hub so they'd lean whenever i have the wheels off.

Greeny

iTrader: (43)

They wont lean if you put one lug nut on each wheel, then tighten it down to hold the rotor in place..

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

true.. i'll do that then.

Mike90SE

iTrader: (3)

Notice that none of those cars listed are a Nissan? Honestly, every Nissan I can remember driving had a whine in the tranny. (96 Hardbody, 90 Max, 92 Max, 00 Max, and dozens of others when I worked as a mechanic) Some of the worst tranny noises I have ever heard came from Toyota manuals though. Them things whine like nobody's bidness.

Mike90SE

iTrader: (3)

Well, if caped has never had a Nissan manual before....what we might consider quiet, might sound like a freight train to him.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

can someone come out here and listen to it plzkewlthx
who has the nearest VG5? the sound is audible on the video my friend took... but it's kinda like... HUGE and won't fit on a CD so i'm waiting to get ahold of it. he took it the night i first test-drove my new-old GXE, but we still haven't gotten it back to me. I have an SD card adapter i just have to remember to bring with me next time i'm at his place. or he could ZIP it into a split-volume and burn it onto 2 CDs. but reverse IS louder than the supercharger sound. maybe if I let aaron listen to it? except that's a 120 mile round trip... 60 miles at 75mph is punishing if it is in fact a problem... and I don't want to drive it like that if something IS amiss... because then i'll just be causing undue problems. and i like how i just used 4 different 2-letter i-words in a row.

talking-on-aim-to-long-lost-friend-from-elementary-school update:
started installing new mcyl today. bench bled to perfection... then ended up pushing the pushrod too many times while trying to worm the pedal back in after connecting the line.. i was adjusting the clevis rod and yeah. it all drained out. so i got to bench bleed the farker again. so i went to the parts car and put mechanical jacks under both sides of the engine.. and tried to get the front mount off. but the front overhang has a big patch of mud beneath it. i couldn't get the mount off, darnkess was setting, I was frustrated as hell, so i said screw it for the day and went inside. but not before bashing the breaker bar on random crap around me to vent my frustration.

Mike90SE

iTrader: (3)

You are correct....reverse is ALOT louder than amy other gear. I believe what you are hearing is nothing more than actual drivetrain noise. I could be wrong, but Nissan is notorious for a loud manual tranny. :idk:

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

MOST sticks are load in reverse IMO especially when they are going over 5mph.

maxitech

iTrader: (7)

Reverse is a straight-cut gear, hence the noise. A race car's tranny with all straight-cut gears will sound like that in every gear.

The rest of the gears are helical and are much quieter.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

Yeah i knew about straight vs helical... I was just noting that the forward-gear whine is not SO LOUD that it overpowers even the whine of Reverse gear.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

UGH!!!!! I CANNOT remove the front motor mount from the parts car. I've tried everything i can think of. I used a breaker bar with some extensions and all that happened was that the extensions twisted and the bolt stayed fast. I put the ratchet on the nut-side, pulled hard... and the nut stripped. And yes I used generous amounts of PB blaster and left it to soak for a day. I'll have to go to a JY for this part, and I now have NO idea how i'm going to get the bracket, because if i couldn't remove the front mount, odds are I won't be able to get the rear mount off either.

Clutch is STILL unbled, because I don't have a helper yet.

vernk

just drop the whole engine with the cross member that will give you more room to work

shoult

iTrader: (1)

MitiVac bleeder kit = Best $30 spent on tools EVER!

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

on which car? I have enough room to work for the most part, though perhaps removing the radiator would give me a little bit more working room. My main issue is that that bolt is stuck and the nut is now stripped. I can't even get either end of my hand-wrench (box or 12pt) around the nut. half of it stripped half didn't, meaning that only a super low profile wrench will go around the still-good part of the nut. I can try to cut it off... that may work, then i'd just have to get a replacement bolt/nut to put back in there when i put the busted mount from my car there in its place. Now, is there any way, perhaps after removing the 2 bolts holding the mount to the member, to swing the mount up and reach in there, and get the upper half of the mount off of the block without ever splitting the mountin half? maybe with a box wrench? and then separate it once it's off...

vernk

well if you have a board like a 2x6 you could put that between the strut towers and put a chain on the engine hooks and over the board and support the board so that it will stand on it's edge to hold the weight then disconnect the the mounts from the engine block and drop just the cross member.

back to your tranny for a min it should take 10 pints or 5 qt. where did you fill it from?

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

well that's a thought... i'd need to get some chains of that description

as for filling the tranny.. the plug with the half-inch square hole

vernk

k you should check it it might have taken a while for it to run into the back side of the tranny (gear lube moves slow when kinda cold) and does it make any noise when the car is running in N with the clutch out and for bleeding it what I use is air tube from a fish tank, loosen the bleeder just so that it's easy to open but closed enough to keep it from leaking, put one end of the hose on the bleeder and the other in a bottle pump up the clutch then use a board to hold it down, then open the bleeder. You can just let it bleed its self that way too just keep the hose (loop it up first so that the air will go up and fluid will stay by the bleeder) and bottle below the master cylinder. I usually use a boxed end 10 mm and just set it so you can open and close with out moving it and if you have to just slid it off the bleeder move and put back on.

I still think you should just pull the 89 engine put it on a engine stand and rebuild, port heads and such then swap.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

depending on weather i'll have it bled tomorrow. I tried a trick but it wasn't high-flow enough. Using the one-way valve from the 89's heater core valve solenoid vaccuum line... it's a one-way valve. but it didn't allow enough fluid to pass through to be effective. It won't be an issue, i've just been focusing on getting the motor mount taken care of (in case you couldn't tell i was REALLY REALLY mad when i wrote post #174, otherwise i wouldn't have even complained about the unbled-state of the clutch). I have to use so much clutch slippage to keep the engine from flailing around like a madman.. even so, most of my upshifts are CVT-smooth.

I plan to do that with the 89 engine... just don't have an engine hoist or any way to get the engine totally out of the car just yet. But yeah, I plan to make that engine like-new. i plan on doing all oil seals, all gaskets, rings, bearings, valve seals, valveseat regrind if necessary, P&P heads, egr blocked, all new injectors (the 89's are original aren't they?), and if I go for some boost, a custom intake manifold.

Wiking

...there somewhere must be already some. Links?

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

well there is a particular car, maxmaxima91, that has the kind of intake manifold i like. it uses all the stock stuff (iacv, all vaccuum ports work as normal) but the design is WAY simpler. no 'blondie' tubes going from behind battery to beside engine to behind radiator then up, splitting through the TB, saying bye-bye and swinging around and the dropping the air into the LIM.... just a straight tube from the intercooler pipe, up, and into the intake. then air goes in and straight down.

Wiking

This means some kind of propelled force feeding... which has its own problems.

The VGE stock intake designer has made one happy error: MAF is positioned mechanically on ideal spot - engine vibrations - 'aligned' almost with 'mid engine line'. Engine vibrations conducted via the S-tubing are minimal at the spot, MAF element's lifetime expectancy is better than on other settings. (must have been disappointment at projected aftersale$ charts)

Greeny

iTrader: (43)

Big_E-Dog

iTrader: (14)

forms from nissan and others just incase any body needs part numbers or forgot how stuff goes

vernk

the injectors more then likely are factory, like i said before i only owned that car for 2 years and it had like almost 200000 on it when i got it and i will let you in on a big secret and that is i paid less for it then you did. i picked it up at a charity car auction, they thought the clutch was out i looked, at it won the bid picked it up took it home (stopping to pick up brake fluid) bled the clutch and drove the hell out of it. I did give it a poor man tune up before driving it to OK NM CA WA back to MN then to PA it has made a trip to NC and back to PA before going there for you.

so whats the wight limit on you tranny jack you might be able to set the engine on that and just jack the body over it and pull it that way. I was thinking of using a pathfinder intake for a turbo you would have to make the maf wires longer but it should put your tb just over the windshield washer tank.

Wiking

Terriblese. Me afraid of monsters...

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

i was thinking about this one, actually
http://img532.imageshack.us/my.php?i...mydyno1sd5.flv

not much can happen today. rainy. and tomorrow i think. Car is parked on the lawn now... so i have no protection from rain except my hood, which is reinstalled.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

my-pants-are-drying-after-i-had-to-lay-in-the-mud-to-work-on-the-parts-car update:
With the aid of some vicegrips (thank you Colombianmax), a blowtorch (thank you Alex_V), and my right foot, I got the front engine mount off the parts car. But i think I strained my achilles tendon a little bit in the process (it was bad already... probably won't be able to walk in another 10 years. oh well). I'm about to install it on my car, which will be fairly easy.. i'm just letting the ypipe cool down since i had to drive the car out of the yard and around the circle to get it in the driveway. The mount's rubber sustained a minor 1st degree burn in the process... i quickly blew it out and went on with the removal, but it didn't really eat into it so it won't be a problem.

The clutch has been re-bled and feels great. no freeplay. the mcyl fixed the problem so i should have much smoother shifts now, between the properly-functional clutch hydraulics and a front engine mount whose good condition continues to amaze me (better than the one I took off and poly filled. Oh boy can't wait to take pics of that sorry piece). Yay! Then i'll just have to keep an eye, er.. ear on this whine.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

about-to-go-chill-with-some-friends update

Well i put in the motor mount and torqued the bolts down and even in just driving it around the yard top speed 10mph allow me to sayOH MY GOD does it feel like a different car!!! With the clutch system back to spec the pedal has a ton more push to it, and the tranny shifts like freakin' butter (1st to reverse with my pinky, ferserious). Not to mention that with this sturdy motor mount, the shifter won't tear itself out of my hand anymore on/off throttle. Speaking of which... hooooly crap. I took out the 3 bolts, started pulling the mount out... had to jack the engine up another 4 inches to get it to clear... pulled on it and tilted it forward... and the metal sleeve FELL OUT ONTO THE GROUND. WTF?? I'll post pics later. But my god, that mount was absolutely OBLITERATED. So much for polyurethane engine mounts... there was a freaking 2 inch tall hole in the middle!

EDIT: actually, pics are here, but still uploading. should be 10 pictures and 1 video.
http://s164.photobucket.com/albums/u.../post-removal/

Alex_V

yea that whine...my ISB is um... power dust. 245K on the trans tho, I wouldn't expect any else. I'm trying to find a local VE-5 to replace it, as Im sure the main shaft has quite a bit of damage. Maybe I'll take it apart after I get the 240 running again.

Glad to help out though! You- 1 more parts car-0

~Alex

Greeny

iTrader: (43)

Most people don't realize how much motor mounts play into how the car idles/runs/drives..They are as important as changing your oil regularly..

In for driving video ( no stoopid stuff though )

vernk

I'm glad things are working out for you.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

aw, i was expecting an "omg what the hell did you do to that poor thing?!". but it's all better now... one of these days i will start re-assembling the parts car, enough to push it around the driveway at least. Right now it has 1 engine mount, a finger-tight front suspension, no brake pads on one corner, and missing 2 wheels. The exhaust is hanging by a thread, and the radiator fans are sitting against my grandpa's grill.

well the first driving video (which i still need to get from my friend's computer) was shot the day i test drove it w/o the hood, and that was more of a shakedown, where i found out what all the problems were. The clutch catches much higher now, so i'm having to get used to that, for sure. it was actually easier to launch with a soft clutch, but impossible to shift without grinding. So this next driving vid will be of me showing how much practice I don't have at driving a stick... and me and my ponderous shifting and crappy launches. But it'll get better with time and practice practice practice. I just hope I don't 'practice' my clutch away. I need it to last a little bit longer so i can buy a good one. Dunno if i should go for a stage 1 or OEM. Thoughts?

Oh and did I mention it's fast? I went to an onramp from a light, launched soft then floored it... i had to coast through the last half of the ramp b/c i was already at merge-speed..

Wiking

This is an authentic lifetime sticky -statement ... times 3million km.

Luckily for A/T -me, these days are behind.

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

that should say enough.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

omg-i-need-to-go-to-sears-tomorrow-to-get-an-exchange-for-my-broken-tool update:

bad news. my clutch is slipping. 5th gear going 55 looking for 65... best i could get out of it without going more than 1000rpm over natural RPM for that gear was 59mph... but the question i pose to every knowledgeable person out there... is there any way possible, through maladjustment of the clevis rod to any hydraulic component to the fluid itself that even at its resting point, the clutch pedal is applying force onto the TOB and thus, slipping the clutch a little bit by not allowing the clutch to fully engage? my clutch has a ton of pressure now from the get-go (no freeplay in the pedal at all) and in fact i can't even get the clevis pin in and out without opening the bleeder bolt... it's got so much pressure. And the clutch catches VERY high (almost totally lifted off the pedal) and leaves very little room for error, and is much harsher-engaging than it was on the bad master cylinder. I've PMd Matt and he said to bleed it summore, but i'm kinda stumped if that could be it or not.

edit: someone mentioned the term "preload" like the pedal is applying too much pre-load at rest.

Greeny

iTrader: (43)

It is possible to slip the clutch all the time if the clevis rod is waaay out of adjustment, but it would have to be extremely out of adjustment, in fact I'm not sure if the maxima clevis rod can be adjusted out far enough to cause this..The fact that your clutch is not starting to "catch" until you have it almost all the way out is a dead sign of a worn clutch/pressure plate assembly.


Try to adjust the rod the other direction..see if that will fix the slipping issue.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

ya, i knew it was a risk to reuse the clutch assembly rather than replacing it... but well, i had to do what I had to do. the grooves between friction blocs were almost nonexistant but i was hoping i could squeeze another 2 months out of it.

BUT i start my brand-new job on tuesday, making $12/hr fulltime plus i picked up a few paychecks from my old job. So now i've got $320 to work with. But since an exedy stage 1 kit costs like, what, almost $300 i think it's no longer an option. looks like i'll have to settle for OE replacement. Just need to find out where i can get it from that can have it to me either tomorrow or.. oh crap... i'm out of town next weekend... hmmmmm ... TOMORROW! haha. I don't want a crappy lowball clutch kit, I want something that's as good as i can get for about $150, so i'm guessing that AZ/AA/Pepboys is out of the question, amirite? I'm also going to try and chop an inch of threads off the clevis rod b/c I can't adjust it down enough w/o it running into the pedal. but i know the clutch has to be replaced soon anyhow.

but you can tell it was worn. look how the TOB has shined up that ring on the otherwise-blackish PP fingers. and yes i'm getting new PP bolts. for some reason there were only 6 on there when i got it... but i'll feel more comfortable having the peace of mind of having all 9.