Wiking

Yes. True. But. I did not write that did I? Besides that bang gets ears tingling...

rmdl51

iTrader: (4)

Ok! I know where the inhibitor connector is now, I'll be testing it later today, but still if car turns on on gear that's for sure 100% a bad inhibitor switch right? bushings were just replaced, so I know for sure is starting on gear because if I start the car on 2 or D and release brake it start moving without changing anything on the shifter selector. I've read on Wiking write up that Inhib sw can be adjusted if yes, how? capedcadaver, you asked if I can start the car on L, might be lost here but what is L? the shifter have P-R-N-D-2-1 only.

Now about the TPS, would it be be too much trouble if I ask somebody a link to a video messing with the TPS adjustment? I don't get it when someone tell me close the throttle manually, is supposed to be closed normally right? I mean if I move the throttle up a little it open but as soon as I release it it closes by itself, there's where I might be getting the wrong picture of this adjustment, because somehow I can't get any reading on the TPS zero pos sw.

Wiking

Brits use the L-sign for learnin...

Inhibit: HowTo Ad Just? Read FSM, page mentioned.

Throttle closes Automatically. For opening, some intelligent design is needed. Here its your hand ---> No Switch Ing ----> No Tes Ting.

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

L = Low gear (AKA 1st gear)
PRNDL switch

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

i could have sworn it was "L" instead of "1" on the 3rd gen..

rmdl51

iTrader: (4)

All right! Thanks to clear that up for me!

Just FYI my FSM do't have page AT-182 it seems to top at page 152 for that section, however I've read the inhib adj sw and some other parts that are interesting.

To be honest, many of you deserve all my respect, you are so crafty and smart, I can't measure the voltages on my TCU, I even tried to laid back om the carpet but its a PITA, besides now all this is starting to annoy me really bad, ECU is now throwing a code 32, which is EGR function.

First task was find out WTH is EGR so, exhaust gas recirculation right? I also check Walt's write up and I check the valve and honestly I don't know what I'm dealing with.

God! how I wish I could live a little closer to any of you guys! I don't have any luck trying to find a Maxima mechanic here besides I'm broke so it's all up to me now or asking the same mechanic to check the car again.

Wiking

The Inhibit sw adjustment is on page 182 ... wassup? ... total page qty is 330.

Been there ... just Dont quit. Maxima is kinda steep to get involved first time. I had no electronics but breaker points and radio to connect into my Morris Mini as I first time opened the hood.... Use your mechanic --> define the job carefully and limit to the measurements, =keep costs down. Troubleshooting takes time and may not give any fruit - keep that job to yourself.

Forget the EGR for now, measure charge voltage, clean connectors. The TPS sw has to work for tranny test.

rmdl51

iTrader: (4)

maybe the version (year/trim) of the FSM is different? haven't check the total of pages but for sure is a huge book with more than 330! I got it used but doesn't seem to be missing any pages, but AT section goes up to page AT-152 but the book doesn't end up there.

Thanks for cheering me up, I'll keep trying, but just finding out the EGR problem dissapoint me a lot, I barely can handle the problems with TPS and inhib sw to be handling one more, CEL is on again that's why I check ECU.

I'm going to junkyard tomorrow, but to be honest I don't know what I'm gonna buy there, I was thinking on the MAF only to fix my CEL but now seems a little bit more complicated, maybe I'll grab a spare TPS, I hope they don't want an Arm and leg for a TCU... I'll feel more confortable playing with another car on the junkyard so if I mess up a diff car no problem.

Wiking

Try to get VGE TPS = 2-9KOhm.

30 minute battery off should clear all ECU. (The EGR error may or may not be true.)

If your multimeter has diode measurement feature =buzzer, that will make contact closed -measurement quick easy and audible. "Get one for 10$"...

rmdl51

iTrader: (4)

Yes it has it! the DMM has the diode testing the one that goes "beeep" if I put the probes together!

but even I tried that! and the TPS doesn't give any sound, meaning is NOT closed the zero position sw right? so I changed from top and middle to the middle and bottom and still no sound, even tried top and bottom and nothing!

potentiometer starts at about 1.7kohm and goes up to 5 kohms...

now here something.... should the ignition be on? I mean just the key on, not the engine, should it be there or it doesn't matter

sonicii

The ignition doesn't need to be on.. you will have the TPS switch unplugged so the ignition switch position has no relevance.

If you want to confirm the TPS closed position switch is working, remove the TPS from the car, and turn the center section fully to the closed end, measure the closed position switch, if the switch still isn't closed in this situation, then the TPS is faulty. While you have the TPS out, check the throttle open position as well, turn the center full the other direction, you should now be able to measure between the middle pin and top pin. You should never have a closed reading between the top and bottom pins on the TPS switch connector.

If these test show the TPS switch is ok, then the reason you weren't able to measure the closed position switch when it was on the car, is because the TPS was out of adjustment.

Get the TPS and the inhibitor switch sorted first so you can run the TCU diag, then move on to the cause of the EGR code.

Wiking

Use the diode testing for the switch. Loosen the TPS attachment/adj screws and try to adjust AND test the TPS simultaneously. If no beep in any position, TPS is bad. Then take it out and try again ...as sonicii said.

That potentiometer is NOT for VGE. Possible problem... find one that goes to 9Kohms.

Read your mail.

rmdl51

iTrader: (4)

Hello Guys! I found two hoses disconnected, could you please tell me where those go and what are they for?

pics:

rmdl51

iTrader: (4)

I figure out that the new TPS was faulty, So I put back the old one which gives me a read of 0.856 Kohms to 8.890Kohms and I test with the "buzzer" the top and middle pins and when it's turned all the way no "beep" then I barely turn it and it makes the "beep" so I adjut it in a way that I barely move the throttle and starts beeping, I hope that's the right way to do it.

So I was doing this when I noticed the hoses on the previous post, I went to junkyard yesterday and couldn't fin a Maxima with a complete engine to check where those hoses go, I see similar hoses on the EGR but all lines are taken.

Any body knows where those go?

sonicii

I just went out and measured my TPS, and the throttle closed switch is the top and middle pins on the switch connector, but it should be beeping when the throttle is closed, and when you open the throttle a small amount, the beeping should stop! not the other way around.
Also the TPS potentiometer on my car has a range of 1.2K - 7k ohms while it is in the car.
NOTE - this range would be greater if the TPS is out of the car because its range of motion is limited by the throttle when it is in the car!

The hose in the first picture is fairly obvious where the hose should go, but I am not sure what its function is, just replace the hose and check other vacuum hoses for cracks and replace as necessary.
The hose on the second picture is the transmission vent hose, it is NOT supposed to be connected to anything, it is just a vent for the transmission casing.

rmdl51

iTrader: (4)

I'll have to check the TPS again then because it doesn't beep when it's closed it starts beeping when it opens a little.

Honestly if I took a picture and upload it asking where it goes is because is not that obvious for me, it seems to go somewhere on the EGR but all the lines are taken, it's a vacuum hose but can see the other end for that one! I turn on the car and I can feel it how it suck air.

Thanks on the other hose, I already asked a neighbor and he told me the same thing as you did, that hose is just a breather he said, but even he can't find the other end for that vacuum hose

EDIT: ok I just walk out to my parking and check the sensor, readjust and now beeps when closed and stop beeping as soon as I open a little!

Wiking

Did u read your PM? No...?

The hose diagram sits in the FSM. Also pics on My CDomain page.

Re-adjusment cannot inverse switch functions ... now some info is amiss... Whatever, now you have a working TPS. Is TCU diagnostics now running?

sonicii

Maybe the picture isn't as clear as I thought, it appears from your first picture that there is just a section of the vacuum hose missing. it looks like you just need to remove the remaining section of broken hose and put a new vacuum hose between the fitting on the intake plenum and the metal hose under the IACV motor.

rmdl51

iTrader: (4)

Yes Walt, I did read my PM's Thanks for the link to the FSM, now I can get the refs you told me about, but I can't find a diagram that tell me where that hose go, I really look on all the sections that they talk about EGR and intake, but can't find it!

The pictures on your CD page shows the hose connected to the intake but not the other end, in one picture it seems that goes to one EGR line but again, there are hoses connected on all the EGR lines already.

Nope the TCU diagnose is still not running, remem ber that I can start the car on gear? I think that's why: inhibitor switch problem, I test the connector and they are not working, and Honestly I didn't understand the FSM about how to adjust tha inhib sw.

The hose goes Under the IACV? I'll take a look again, Thanks

Wiking

One issue is non functional switches: If [no beep] in any position, take the sw into your hand. I've not read the FSM explanation, undoubtedly adj guide is confuzean. As said, they can be measured at TCU connector also.

Lousy illustrations - but...
This can be found in the FSM; also http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/3

rmdl51

iTrader: (4)

I did take a look at that picture on the FSM but it only says "to port 1" "to port 2" etc, and I have no idea which port is that hose on the intake, but right now I'm at work, when I get home I'll take a look again, I will try to take a closeup picture around EGR, you know I think that little hose is why I got the code 32 on ECU, I hope after connecting that hose CEL is gone forever! :P

When I test inhib sw, there is "beep" on pins 1-3 but nothing on 4-6 which according to FSM should be a closed circuit on those pins.

You know I called the mechanic and he'll "help" tomorrow (i hope) about that inhib sw, I'll let you know guys how is going with that matter. I let him know that either he or at the trans shop messed up with that because before never turns on when on gear,

sonicii

From what I can determine from the FSM, pins 1 -3 are used by the ignition to prevent you starting the car in a position other than N or P. Check if these pins are closed in D, R, 2 or 1? If they are, it explains why you can start the car in any position. The other pins are to tell the TCU which gear position you have selected. You should check if those switch close in position other than the correct position, that will tell you if the switch is faulty, or just poorly adjusted.

As for the vacuum hose, I will try to take a picture of mine, showing were both ends attach.

sonicii

here is a pic.

rmdl51

iTrader: (4)

Just what I thought! that place is taken my friend! by another hose that connects exactly under the dual intake plenum, look at my pict that the other end where your hose is connected is taken by that hose I mention:



Edit: One more picture pointing the hose I'm talking about that take the place where yours is connected

Wiking

Funny hoses. Take care...

rmdl51

iTrader: (4)

The funny hoses are gonna give me a headache I guess... :P

even tough I connect the hose as sonicii picture, where I'm gonna connect the hose I disconnect from there?

I know there's a diagram on the FSM but that's no help at all. anybody have a diagram or some pictures with all those tiny hoses?

I guess mechanic mess up here, but I was wondering, he mention something about the jap engine intake being different from the US, he said if he uses the intake manifold and something else my smog inspection won't pass here, so he said he'll use my same US parts to avoid that problem. do that has something to do with this hose line-up or maybe my acceleration problem?

Wiking

Headache means youre becoming a pro ... He is lost...

I dont know any videos running down the hoses, all others [except he] have survived with confuzean jap different dia-grams. Maybe youll now do some research and take the videos of each hose? Power valve hoses here: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/3

sonicii

On mine there are 2 vacuum hoses that connect on the under side of the throttle body, from what I can see from your photos, you have a 3rd hose, which is the one in question, can you trace all three of those hoses and see where they go, I am guessing 2 of them connect under the throttle body, the third hose is a mystery?? I have added some more photos to show those 2 hoses.

Hope the pictures are helpful.

rmdl51

iTrader: (4)

Ok! finally those hoses are back in track, mechanic come over today and help me rewiring those, he actually bring some parts from the old engine, and replace the whole intake manifold, along with EGR, IACV, TPS, and then the CEL was gone..... for a few minutes.... it was back on again, and ECU throw 33, 34.

O2 sensor??? come on! how come it didn't show up before? and knock sensor, he run some test on the FSM and knock sensor seems to be ok (I check everything with him watching all the time) and he mention that if knock sensor was bad there should be a ping noise or will notice a rough engine, however the CEL turn off now randomly.

Well that's for the CEL, for the acceleration problem it hasn't been fixed, and can't run the TCU self diagostic, mechanic help me test inhibitor switch and he tried to adjust it and it was fine, so we figure it out it was bad.

Called transmission shop and they don't want to repair that, they say that is not on the rebuilt job warranty, I argue my inhibitor switch was working before and they say is my same inhibitor switch, but mechanic said he will take the car with them and make them fix it, then mechanic agree they are being so irresponsable lately, and he was suprised because he have worked with them before, well I told him all I care is to get a functional car back after paying them.

Mechanic even offer me a car in the meanwhile that he and the tranny shop will work with my car, but I just told him I don't want the car gone for a month and give it back in the same situation. He just told me to get the inhibitor switch, or check online how much they go for.

I would like to go brand new but I have no idea how much that switch cost, any ideas where to buy it? prices used/new?

Thanks

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

... dude. just MOVE to where one of us lives. forget their bull **** and don't let him touch your car ever again. every time you fix one thing three more go bad. isn't that telling you something?

and everything from an a/t you need, i have, remember? only thing i don't have is the tranny/tc in working condition but all the accessories, sensors, everything else still worked. tranny cooler is most likely sold tho to a fellow ORGer.

sonicii

Have to agree with capedcadaver, I think you need a new mechanic.
For a start your car will NOT ping or run rough without a knock sensor, unless you are using very bad fuel or the timing is a long way out! The knock sensor is a last resort protection for knocking, it is not used at all on an engine that is running normally.

If he is the one that stuffed up the vacuum hoses, I thing I would have been quite reluctant to let him replace the whole intake manifold!

Hope it all gets sorted soon!!

Wiking

[He] = the mechanic. Truly. "he mention that if knock sensor was bad there should be a ping noise..."
Maybe if [he] attaches CD player to the KS piezo buzzer, that makes ping?

oh boy.

-------------------------------------------------

The switch price cant be too bad, try finding online.

But this switch wont change anything to the better - with your buddies - some solution on the foundations has to be found.