The Engine/Tranny swap Finished!
02-13-2008, 08:43 PM
#1
The Engine/Tranny swap Finished!
Hello! I post a few weeks ago about this big job to ask for suggestions and advice about replacing Engine and Tranny, well It's done and now that I just got the Maxima back today I was very happy to finally drive it again.
I got surprised though that I have no power when accelerating and I called the mechanic immediatly and he said it will be like that for the first 200-300 miles and then it will stretch, and the car indeed feels very tight.
My first question is, is it true that because tranny has been just rebuilt it performs like this?
I'm really concerned, it really feels powerless, could you please help me understand if what he said is correct. Thanks!
I got surprised though that I have no power when accelerating and I called the mechanic immediatly and he said it will be like that for the first 200-300 miles and then it will stretch, and the car indeed feels very tight.
My first question is, is it true that because tranny has been just rebuilt it performs like this?
I'm really concerned, it really feels powerless, could you please help me understand if what he said is correct. Thanks!
) has been reset, maybe? it has to calibrate itself again.
02-14-2008, 05:53 AM
#6
yes when i had the tranny rebuilt everything was really tight. like i was down a good 20-30 ponies under the rood. it'll loosen up a little.
change the ATF after the 200-300 miles...my fluid was really dirty after 1K.
change the ATF after the 200-300 miles...my fluid was really dirty after 1K.
02-14-2008, 07:39 AM
#7
All right, Thanks! it's a relief hear that you went through the same situation, I will keep checking the ATF
And, I just drive the car to work and the tranny is shifting always at 3500rpm in confort and 4500 on power, isn't that too high? I remember before the rebuit it was 2500-3500 respectively.
One more thing, the steering wheel is shaking a lot then I'm in D with the brake pedal on, do you know why?
I hope not being so annoying with so many questions, it's just that I don't know what to expect after engine swap and tranny rebuilt, thanks!
And, I just drive the car to work and the tranny is shifting always at 3500rpm in confort and 4500 on power, isn't that too high? I remember before the rebuit it was 2500-3500 respectively.
One more thing, the steering wheel is shaking a lot then I'm in D with the brake pedal on, do you know why?
I hope not being so annoying with so many questions, it's just that I don't know what to expect after engine swap and tranny rebuilt, thanks!
Last edited by rmdl51; 02-14-2008 at 08:49 AM.
02-14-2008, 10:27 AM
#9
All right, Thanks! it's a relief hear that you went through the same situation, I will keep checking the ATF
And, I just drive the car to work and the tranny is shifting always at 3500rpm in confort and 4500 on power, isn't that too high? I remember before the rebuit it was 2500-3500 respectively.
One more thing, the steering wheel is shaking a lot then I'm in D with the brake pedal on, do you know why?
I hope not being so annoying with so many questions, it's just that I don't know what to expect after engine swap and tranny rebuilt, thanks!
And, I just drive the car to work and the tranny is shifting always at 3500rpm in confort and 4500 on power, isn't that too high? I remember before the rebuit it was 2500-3500 respectively.
One more thing, the steering wheel is shaking a lot then I'm in D with the brake pedal on, do you know why?
I hope not being so annoying with so many questions, it's just that I don't know what to expect after engine swap and tranny rebuilt, thanks!
if you are shaking while in D, check for a misfire. it may also be a bad mount or 2 or 3 or 4
02-14-2008, 01:15 PM
#10
Also I still have the CEL on all the time, is this because it's a jap engine? or the fact that the ECU has to reprogram itself, anyway I check the codes and it throw a 12 which is, Air flow meter/circuit open or shorted so? how to tell if it's damaged?
02-15-2008, 09:41 AM
#12
Ok! Thanks a lot! MAF connector was so rusted, I cleaned it and CEL is gone!
Unfortunately I think the tranny still have problems, I can't seem to go higher than 40MPH, and don't even talk about uphills, so I stop driving it and call the mechanic and he said when he test drive it it wasn't like that but he thinks it might be stuck on 2nd gear and he's taking the car back again to "readjust" (that's what he said).
Also let him know about the shaking on the steering wheel and he said he check for misfiring and didn't find any problems, but probably engine mounts.
Well, he's taking it back on monday so let's see how it performs when the "readjust" is done.
Unfortunately I think the tranny still have problems, I can't seem to go higher than 40MPH, and don't even talk about uphills, so I stop driving it and call the mechanic and he said when he test drive it it wasn't like that but he thinks it might be stuck on 2nd gear and he's taking the car back again to "readjust" (that's what he said).
Also let him know about the shaking on the steering wheel and he said he check for misfiring and didn't find any problems, but probably engine mounts.
Well, he's taking it back on monday so let's see how it performs when the "readjust" is done.
02-15-2008, 10:18 AM
#13
Ok! Thanks a lot! MAF connector was so rusted, I cleaned it and CEL is gone!
Unfortunately I think the tranny still have problems, I can't seem to go higher than 40MPH, and don't even talk about uphills, so I stop driving it and call the mechanic and he said when he test drive it it wasn't like that but he thinks it might be stuck on 2nd gear and he's taking the car back again to "readjust" (that's what he said).
Also let him know about the shaking on the steering wheel and he said he check for misfiring and didn't find any problems, but probably engine mounts.
Well, he's taking it back on monday so let's see how it performs when the "readjust" is done.
Unfortunately I think the tranny still have problems, I can't seem to go higher than 40MPH, and don't even talk about uphills, so I stop driving it and call the mechanic and he said when he test drive it it wasn't like that but he thinks it might be stuck on 2nd gear and he's taking the car back again to "readjust" (that's what he said).
Also let him know about the shaking on the steering wheel and he said he check for misfiring and didn't find any problems, but probably engine mounts.
Well, he's taking it back on monday so let's see how it performs when the "readjust" is done.
02-15-2008, 01:53 PM
#14
I think maybe I reach a bit over 40 but can't remember very well, downhill speed reaches 55, but going straight and with the WHOLE gas pedal depressed (all the way down) maybe reaches 45mph.
I don't stand by the mechanic statement, for sure he might be wrong, I'm just saying the way the car behaves and if it's stuck on 2nd gear or 3rd gear I'm not happy with that, so that's why he's taking back the car, to get it fixed, and I think I haven't mentioned that the takeoff is incredibly slow, I'm embarrased at every stop light when it's green and everybody passing me over because it takes about 10 seconds to even reach 20-25mph,
But well, the engine sound soo different, and it feels stronger on the reving but the tranny is just not using the power I guess. It's even worst than before when the tranny was slipping.
BTW, I noticed also when I put on D it doesn't engage, I have to go all the way down to 2 and then back to D, but this problem I think it's my shifter, because the shifter button doesn't work from long time ago.
I don't stand by the mechanic statement, for sure he might be wrong, I'm just saying the way the car behaves and if it's stuck on 2nd gear or 3rd gear I'm not happy with that, so that's why he's taking back the car, to get it fixed, and I think I haven't mentioned that the takeoff is incredibly slow, I'm embarrased at every stop light when it's green and everybody passing me over because it takes about 10 seconds to even reach 20-25mph,
But well, the engine sound soo different, and it feels stronger on the reving but the tranny is just not using the power I guess. It's even worst than before when the tranny was slipping.
BTW, I noticed also when I put on D it doesn't engage, I have to go all the way down to 2 and then back to D, but this problem I think it's my shifter, because the shifter button doesn't work from long time ago.
02-15-2008, 04:39 PM
#15
I think maybe I reach a bit over 40 but can't remember very well, downhill speed reaches 55, but going straight and with the WHOLE gas pedal depressed (all the way down) maybe reaches 45mph.
I don't stand by the mechanic statement, for sure he might be wrong, I'm just saying the way the car behaves and if it's stuck on 2nd gear or 3rd gear I'm not happy with that, so that's why he's taking back the car, to get it fixed, and I think I haven't mentioned that the takeoff is incredibly slow, I'm embarrased at every stop light when it's green and everybody passing me over because it takes about 10 seconds to even reach 20-25mph,
But well, the engine sound soo different, and it feels stronger on the reving but the tranny is just not using the power I guess. It's even worst than before when the tranny was slipping.
BTW, I noticed also when I put on D it doesn't engage, I have to go all the way down to 2 and then back to D, but this problem I think it's my shifter, because the shifter button doesn't work from long time ago.
I don't stand by the mechanic statement, for sure he might be wrong, I'm just saying the way the car behaves and if it's stuck on 2nd gear or 3rd gear I'm not happy with that, so that's why he's taking back the car, to get it fixed, and I think I haven't mentioned that the takeoff is incredibly slow, I'm embarrased at every stop light when it's green and everybody passing me over because it takes about 10 seconds to even reach 20-25mph,
But well, the engine sound soo different, and it feels stronger on the reving but the tranny is just not using the power I guess. It's even worst than before when the tranny was slipping.
BTW, I noticed also when I put on D it doesn't engage, I have to go all the way down to 2 and then back to D, but this problem I think it's my shifter, because the shifter button doesn't work from long time ago.
02-15-2008, 05:15 PM
#16
So, what do you mean by saying I didn't indicate the engine speed is excessive, the tach should tell me if the engine speed is excessive? I post the shifting points a few posts above, so according to those shifts I believe I'm stuck at 3rd, when I say it takes about 10sec to reach 25 it's because there's the approx time for the car to make the first shift, however the tach neddle reaches very fast 3000rpm but it's until a little above 3500 when it actually shifts to 2nd,(which this shift is very shaky) and if I move the P/C switch to Power it shifts appox at 4500rpm. and then it shifts again to 3rd (and more softly) and here's where I reach the 40-45mph point and then I don't feel any other shift.
Actually I Don't know what the torque converter lock is for, or in other words I don't understand the benefits of having a switch like that.
Unfortunately my knowledge is not very advanced on all this terms, but I learning on the go with all this problems with the tranny/engine.
Thanks!
Actually I Don't know what the torque converter lock is for, or in other words I don't understand the benefits of having a switch like that.
Unfortunately my knowledge is not very advanced on all this terms, but I learning on the go with all this problems with the tranny/engine.
Thanks!
02-15-2008, 05:29 PM
#17
So, what do you mean by saying I didn't indicate the engine speed is excessive, the tach should tell me if the engine speed is excessive? I post the shifting points a few posts above, so according to those shifts I believe I'm stuck at 3rd, when I say it takes about 10sec to reach 25 it's because there's the approx time for the car to make the first shift, however the tach neddle reaches very fast 3000rpm but it's until a little above 3500 when it actually shifts to 2nd,(which this shift is very shaky) and if I move the P/C switch to Power it shifts appox at 4500rpm. and then it shifts again to 3rd (and more softly) and here's where I reach the 40-45mph point and then I don't feel any other shift.
Actually I Don't know what the torque converter lock is for, or in other words I don't understand the benefits of having a switch like that.
Unfortunately my knowledge is not very advanced on all this terms, but I learning on the go with all this problems with the tranny/engine.
Thanks!
Actually I Don't know what the torque converter lock is for, or in other words I don't understand the benefits of having a switch like that.
Unfortunately my knowledge is not very advanced on all this terms, but I learning on the go with all this problems with the tranny/engine.
Thanks!
the TC lock switch basically solidifies the link between engine and transmission, as if it were a clutch in a manual car. Granted you can't stop at a light in this condition because the engine would stop too, which is why the switch, EVEN when manually bypassed, still doesn't work in 1st gear. It's advantage is that it prevents power wasted through the torque converter. The tradeoff is it wears out the transmission like MAD. I adapted my driving style to a more stick-shift-esque style to work around the added wear factor, but then again i already have another transmission to put in once I kill this one, so I don't really care if I mess my transmission up or not. If at all possible can you drive the car around for 10 miles or so, then take an acceleration video for us? The reason I ask that you drive a little is so that the trans fluid will be at operating temperature when the video is taken. Plus the TC lockup might engage as per the TCU telling it to do so at 45mph between 1% and 35% throttle, give or take.
02-16-2008, 08:37 PM
#18
I would like to take a video but the car is back with the mechanic he will take it to the shop where the tranny was rebuilt and have them fix this issue, I think I'll get the car back on tue-wed so I hope they fix this problem, but anyways I'll shot a video and upload it when I get it back so you can post what do you think of the engine/tranny performance, Thanks!
02-20-2008, 02:26 PM
#19
Ok, today I talked to the mechanic and he said there's a problem with my electrical system and some solenoids are not getting any power, he will have an electrical guy to check for issues since he's not an expert on that matter.
My point is, how come he didn't notice this before when test driving it? Actually I asked him and he says the car didn't behave like that when he testdrive it, he says also that the car is running fine now but he's afraid that the problem will be back after he deliver the car to me and that's why he want the electrical guy to check everything.
So, what do you think? if I have an electrical issue how come it didn't show up on the ECU, or is not necessary that this happends? how come before the rebuild didn't notice any electrical issues, I even have a sound system and never noticed a problem, I don't know I might be wrong and there could be an explanation like some wires got damaged in the engine/tranny swap or something like that.
My point is, how come he didn't notice this before when test driving it? Actually I asked him and he says the car didn't behave like that when he testdrive it, he says also that the car is running fine now but he's afraid that the problem will be back after he deliver the car to me and that's why he want the electrical guy to check everything.
So, what do you think? if I have an electrical issue how come it didn't show up on the ECU, or is not necessary that this happends? how come before the rebuild didn't notice any electrical issues, I even have a sound system and never noticed a problem, I don't know I might be wrong and there could be an explanation like some wires got damaged in the engine/tranny swap or something like that.
02-20-2008, 08:37 PM
#20
oooops i missed that post. i mean... if you floor it, it should shift at 5800rpm every time actually, regardless of Pwr/Comfort. skip to the last 10% of this video ... about 8 seconds from the end and you will see how it should behave at full throttle.
the TC lock switch basically solidifies the link between engine and transmission, as if it were a clutch in a manual car. Granted you can't stop at a light in this condition because the engine would stop too, which is why the switch, EVEN when manually bypassed, still doesn't work in 1st gear. It's advantage is that it prevents power wasted through the torque converter. The tradeoff is it wears out the transmission like MAD. I adapted my driving style to a more stick-shift-esque style to work around the added wear factor, but then again i already have another transmission to put in once I kill this one, so I don't really care if I mess my transmission up or not. If at all possible can you drive the car around for 10 miles or so, then take an acceleration video for us? The reason I ask that you drive a little is so that the trans fluid will be at operating temperature when the video is taken. Plus the TC lockup might engage as per the TCU telling it to do so at 45mph between 1% and 35% throttle, give or take.
the TC lock switch basically solidifies the link between engine and transmission, as if it were a clutch in a manual car. Granted you can't stop at a light in this condition because the engine would stop too, which is why the switch, EVEN when manually bypassed, still doesn't work in 1st gear. It's advantage is that it prevents power wasted through the torque converter. The tradeoff is it wears out the transmission like MAD. I adapted my driving style to a more stick-shift-esque style to work around the added wear factor, but then again i already have another transmission to put in once I kill this one, so I don't really care if I mess my transmission up or not. If at all possible can you drive the car around for 10 miles or so, then take an acceleration video for us? The reason I ask that you drive a little is so that the trans fluid will be at operating temperature when the video is taken. Plus the TC lockup might engage as per the TCU telling it to do so at 45mph between 1% and 35% throttle, give or take.
02-20-2008, 09:27 PM
#22
well gee.. saying that sure bit me in the a$$...
In the other hand you are so lucky to have your parts car, I wish I could have another Maxima for parts, but you know, living on apartment with no garage kills any options for me.
02-20-2008, 09:59 PM
#23
Oh man! sorry to hear your TC is blown along with the tranny, surely sucks having to do a job because you "must" instead than because you "want" to do it.
In the other hand you are so lucky to have your parts car, I wish I could have another Maxima for parts, but you know, living on apartment with no garage kills any options for me.
In the other hand you are so lucky to have your parts car, I wish I could have another Maxima for parts, but you know, living on apartment with no garage kills any options for me.
Last edited by CapedCadaver; 02-20-2008 at 10:01 PM. Reason: typos
02-21-2008, 10:33 AM
#24
Well, right now the car is still on mechanic's place, actually the tranny has been done by other guy, I know this because he's not a tranny guy, so the car is at the place of this guy who says it has electricar issues, my question is:
In the worst of the cases, what could be wrong with the electrical system (Tranny related)?
I don't know if they are gonna ask for more money or not, but I'm looking for your advice to be aware of what could be the worst for electrical issues. I'm afraid they are gonna ask for more money and if expensive parts are gonna need to be replaced right now I'm broke after spending $2700 on this job
In the worst of the cases, what could be wrong with the electrical system (Tranny related)?
I don't know if they are gonna ask for more money or not, but I'm looking for your advice to be aware of what could be the worst for electrical issues. I'm afraid they are gonna ask for more money and if expensive parts are gonna need to be replaced right now I'm broke after spending $2700 on this job
02-22-2008, 01:34 AM
#25
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: EU Scandinavia
Posts: 4,323
Safe Mode can be initieted by multiple reasons, here I guess the rev or temp -sensor or its wiring, other wiring connectors, lever wire adj etcetc are out or broken.
TCU can also be burned by unexperienced mechs, 'new' TCU would probably cost 150$ from junkyard.
NOTE: All starts from measuring charge voltage.
Just dont give any more money, the guy has to fix it or somehow compensate...
Check this for diagnostics: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/15
Last edited by Wiking; 02-22-2008 at 01:41 AM.
02-22-2008, 07:49 AM
#26
Well, right now the car is still on mechanic's place, actually the tranny has been done by other guy, I know this because he's not a tranny guy, so the car is at the place of this guy who says it has electricar issues, my question is:
In the worst of the cases, what could be wrong with the electrical system (Tranny related)?
I don't know if they are gonna ask for more money or not, but I'm looking for your advice to be aware of what could be the worst for electrical issues. I'm afraid they are gonna ask for more money and if expensive parts are gonna need to be replaced right now I'm broke after spending $2700 on this job
In the worst of the cases, what could be wrong with the electrical system (Tranny related)?
I don't know if they are gonna ask for more money or not, but I'm looking for your advice to be aware of what could be the worst for electrical issues. I'm afraid they are gonna ask for more money and if expensive parts are gonna need to be replaced right now I'm broke after spending $2700 on this job
02-27-2008, 02:36 PM
#27
Just an update...
I talked to the mechanic and he said the electrician guy told him the MODE switch was dead and without that switch he can't run the complete diagnose, so mechanic called the dealer to buy a switch ($36) which I don't know if he's gonna try to charge me or not, but then he's waiting to get that switch and have the electrician to run the diagnostic tests again.
As far as I remember that switch was working good before giving the car to them, around here is hard to get a Maxima mechanic, it was even hard to find this guy who was recommended by a couple of coworkers who had good experiences with him, he worked 12 years for Honda, but unfortunately not for Nissan but oh well, I just hope my car is fixed completely by this weekend, has been a month now!
I talked to the mechanic and he said the electrician guy told him the MODE switch was dead and without that switch he can't run the complete diagnose, so mechanic called the dealer to buy a switch ($36) which I don't know if he's gonna try to charge me or not, but then he's waiting to get that switch and have the electrician to run the diagnostic tests again.
As far as I remember that switch was working good before giving the car to them, around here is hard to get a Maxima mechanic, it was even hard to find this guy who was recommended by a couple of coworkers who had good experiences with him, he worked 12 years for Honda, but unfortunately not for Nissan but oh well, I just hope my car is fixed completely by this weekend, has been a month now!
03-28-2008, 01:03 PM
#29
yes but i can't think of ANY reason why you'd want to. VE tranny is stronger to handle the extra 30hp, and the extra 30hp beyond that that the VG trans wasn't even designed to handle. VG tranny was designed for a 4cyl and re-used on te V6 Max. so if you put in a VG tranny a VE engine would kill it quickly.
not to mention that the VE tranny has limited-slip tranny (aka, traction out the a**) and the VG doesn't.
not to mention that the VE tranny has limited-slip tranny (aka, traction out the a**) and the VG doesn't.
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